Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (02): 76-81.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180602606

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Size prediction and size modeling of warp knitted seamless sport suits

LIU Haisang, DONG Zhijia(), ZHANG Qi, XIA Fenglin, CONG Honglian   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu, 214122, China
  • Received:2018-06-05 Revised:2018-09-28 Online:2019-02-15 Published:2019-02-01
  • Contact: DONG Zhijia E-mail:dongzj0921@163.com

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Abstract:

Aiming at the repeated sample weaving, resizing, low efficiency and long period during the new product development, based on the measurement and calculation of the theoretical dimensions and final dimensions of different stitches, the shrinkage ratio of different stitches in different drawing densities were calculated. With eight different drawing densities, four kind of common organizations were knitted on the two-needle bar warp knitting machine. The relationship between the drawing density and the size shrinkage was studied. The results show that a significant linear relationship exists between the drawing density and the size shrinkage. On this basis, the size prediction model of the organization was established. Based on the specifications of knitted garments, the function of automatic generation of the garment template in WKCAD was realized by programming, which provides an effective way to realize the new product design and development accurately and quickly.

Key words: warp knitted, sport suits, size shrinkage ratio, size prediction, size modeling

CLC Number: 

  • TS184.5

Fig.1

4 kinds of jacquard stitches. (a)Stitches1;(b)Stitches2;(c)Stitches3;(d)Stitches4"

Tab.1

Size shrinkage of finished products %"

牵拉密度/
(横列·
cm-1)		 组织1 组织2 组织3 组织4
横向 纵向 横向 纵向 横向 纵向 横向 纵向
8.0 55.41 67.22 54.74 66.63 54.13 65.32 54.40 66.24
8.5 55.74 65.87 55.02 65.11 54.96 63.85 54.96 65.18
9.0 56.57 65.20 55.74 64.05 55.63 62.94 56.02 64.09
9.5 57.80 64.75 56.69 63.22 56.85 62.52 56.46 63.42
10.0 57.47 62.81 57.41 62.52 56.57 60.80 56.91 62.32
10.5 58.25 62.37 57.58 60.78 56.80 59.48 58.02 60.17
11.0 57.86 59.50 57.30 58.95 56.46 58.05 57.63 59.81
12.0 57.80 56.65 57.80 56.75 56.13 56.26 57.74 56.85

Fig.2

Measurement point of human body. (a)Lateral body; (b)Frontal body"

Fig.3

Size partition model of warp knit fully formed sport suit. (a)Vest;(b)Tights"

Tab.2

Measuring position of female and size scaling"

人体测
量部位		 加放量计算公式
(中、高弹面料)		 服装成
品规格
坐姿颈椎点高 +[-9~(-3±1)] cm 衣长
全臂长 +(-3~-1) cm 袖长(长袖)
腰围高 +(-16~5) cm 裤长
(净)胸围 一般紧身为-32~-4 cm,
贴体为-2~4 cm		 胸围
颈围 +不同款式所需放松量 领围
总肩宽 +不同款式所需放松量 总肩宽
(净)腰围 +不同款式所需放松量 腰围
(净)臀围 紧身裤、贴体裤为-14~2 cm 臀围

Tab.3

A type of female’s intermediate sizecm"

类型 身高 颈椎点高 坐姿椎高 全臂长 腰围高 胸围 颈围 总肩宽 腰围 臀围
计算数 160 136 62.6 50.4 98.1 84 33.7 39.9 68.2 90.9
采用数 160 136 62.5 50.5 98.0 84 33.6 39.4 68.0 90.0

Tab.4

Size control of the warp knitted sport suitcm"

服装部位 净体数值 服装规格 工艺长度
衣长 62.6 56 56
裤长 98.1 92 92
胸围 84.0 68 34
腰围 68.2 60 30
臀围 90.9 72 36

Tab.5

Significance and correlation between drawing densities and shrinkage rates"

参数 组织1 组织2 组织1 组织2
横向 纵向 横向 纵向 横向 纵向 横向 纵向
S 0.001 0.000 0.001 0.000 0.014 0.000 0.001 0.000
R 0.836 0.980 0.921 0.994 0.856 0.995 0.921 0.993

Tab.6

Prediction size and finished product size of jacquard organizations"

组织 横向 纵向
预测
值/
cm		 成品
值/
cm		 差值/
cm		 变化
率/
%		 预测
值/
cm		 成品
值/
cm		 差值/
cm		 变化
率/
%
组织1 26.73 25.23 -1.50 -5.61 29.55 29.90 0.35 1.18
组织2 26.97 25.57 -1.40 -5.19 30.00 30.30 0.30 1.00
组织3 27.21 26.07 -1.14 -4.19 30.69 30.97 0.28 0.91
组织4 26.92 25.37 -1.55 -5.76 29.91 29.67 -0.24 -0.80

Fig.4

Partition map. (a)vest;(b)tights"

Tab.7

Template sizecm"

部位 尺寸 部位 尺寸
小肩宽 5.0 挂肩 15.0
领宽 15.0 大身 39.0
胸宽 34.0 臀宽 36.0
腰宽 30.0 大腿宽 13.5
下摆宽 30.0 小腿宽 10.0
前领深 11.0 臀长 32.0
后领深 4.5 大腿长 25.0
肩斜 2.0 小腿长 35.0

Fig.5

Forming calculation process"

Fig.6

Width and height"

Fig.7

Template drawing of sport suit. (a)Front;(b)Back"

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