Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (05): 107-112.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180702706

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Ease distribution rules of characteristic positions in women's suits

GU Bingfei1,2,3, YAN Yanhong1,2,3, SU Junqiang4(), LIU Guolian5   

  1. 1. Fashion College, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
    2. Clothing Engineering Research Center of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
    3. Key Laboratory of Silk Culture Heritage and Products Design Digital Technology, Ministry of Culture Tourism, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
    4. School of Textile and Clothing, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
    5. College and Textile and Clothing Engineering, Soochow University, Suzhou, Jiangsu 215006, China
  • Received:2018-07-11 Revised:2019-01-25 Online:2019-05-15 Published:2019-05-21
  • Contact: SU Junqiang E-mail:sujunqiang@126.com

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Abstract:

In order to realize the automatic generation of individualized pattern, the distribution rules of ease allowance between human body and garments were analyzed to establish the pattern generation rules. First the undressed standard mannequin was scanned by a 3-D body scanner to obtain the basic point-cloud data of the mannequin, and then seven suits with the same style and different ease allowance were scanned to obtain the point-cloud data of the suits. The distribution rules of the distance ease were demonstrated by adding the data of the suits and mannequin, and the mannequin-suit curves of ten characteristic positions were measured to build the calculative models between the distance ease and the ease allowance to realize the conversion between the ease allowance and the distance ease. The R 2 values of the regression models of the distance ease at all positions are all more than 0.9, verifying the accuracy of the models. Finally, the distance ease was converted into the pattern increments through curve simulation by taking the bust position as an example, and the example shows that the difference between the bust circumference of the garment and the body bust girth is -0.42 cm, which conforms to the standard error of the bust circumference of women's suits in China.

Key words: body measurement, point-cloud data, distance ease, pattern increment

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.26

Fig.1

Women's suits sample style. (a) Front; (b) Back"

Tab.1

Ease allowances and sizes of samples' characteristic positions"

尺寸
类型		 样衣
编号		 放松量/
cm		 胸围
B/cm		 腰围
W/cm		 臀围
H/cm
标准
人台
尺寸		 0# 0 84 66 90
西装
尺寸		 1# 贴体
0~4		 86 70 92
2# 88 72 94
3# 合体
6~12		 92 76 96
4# 94 78 98
5# 96 82 100
6# 宽松
16~24		 100 90 102
7# 104 94 104

Fig.2

Characteristic positions in upper body"

Fig.3

Insert points in cross-sectional curve of bust width"

Fig.4

Distance ease measurement in cross-sectional curve of bust width of seven different suits"

Fig.5

Distance ease distribution in cross-sectional curve of bust width"

Tab.2

Correlation analysis of girth differences"

特征部位
围度差		 与胸部松量
值相关性		 与腰部松量值
相关性		 与臀部松量
值相关性
肩部截面 0.976 0.949 0.999
上胸宽截面 0.987 0.979 0.989
胸宽截面 0.915 0.907 0.940
下胸宽截面 0.967 0.954 0.997
腋点处截面 0.932 0.911 0.942
下胸部截面 0.994 0.930 0.966
腹部截面 0.980 0.977 0.993

Fig.6

Inserted points in cross-sectional curve of bust width"

Tab.3

Ease allowance-distance ease model in cross-sectional curve of bust width"

插入点编号 回归模型 R2
1 Y=-0.559+0.154X3+0.001X32 0.988
2 Y=-0.183+0.091X3+0.00046X32 0.997
3 Y=0.477+0.124X3-0.003X32 0.951
4 Y=-0.312+0.223X3-0.007X32 0.928
5 Y=-1.028+0.440X3-0.005X32 0.995
6 Y=-2.113+0.859X3-0.021X32 0.999
16 Y=0.135-0.026X3+0.007X32 0.943
17 Y=-0.181+0.051X3+0.001X32 0.960
18 Y=0.060-0.002X3+0.001X32 0.994
19 Y=0.812+0.101X3-0.003X32 0.891
20 Y=0.224+0.090X3-0.001X32 0.986

Fig.7

Fitted bust curves between body and garment"

Tab.4

Pattern increments of inserted points in fitted bust curves between body and garment"

插入点 人体/cm 服装/cm 增量ΔL/cm
L1-2 8.50 10.31 1.81
L2-3 2.49 2.79 0.30
L3-4 3.83 3.63 -0.20
L4-5 3.95 4.11 0.16
L5-6 3.95 4.06 0.11
L15-16 4.28 4.49 0.21
L16-17 4.32 4.53 0.21
L17-18 3.53 3.56 0.03
L18-1 6.48 8.64 2.46

Fig.8

Convertion between prototype and ready-to-wear pattern"

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