Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (05): 107-112.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180702706

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Ease distribution rules of characteristic positions in women's suits

GU Bingfei1,2,3, YAN Yanhong1,2,3, SU Junqiang4(), LIU Guolian5   

  1. 1. Fashion College, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
    2. Clothing Engineering Research Center of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
    3. Key Laboratory of Silk Culture Heritage and Products Design Digital Technology, Ministry of Culture Tourism, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
    4. School of Textile and Clothing, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
    5. College and Textile and Clothing Engineering, Soochow University, Suzhou, Jiangsu 215006, China
  • Received:2018-07-11 Revised:2019-01-25 Online:2019-05-15 Published:2019-05-21
  • Contact: SU Junqiang E-mail:sujunqiang@126.com

RichHTML

6

PDF (PC)

197

Abstract:

In order to realize the automatic generation of individualized pattern, the distribution rules of ease allowance between human body and garments were analyzed to establish the pattern generation rules. First the undressed standard mannequin was scanned by a 3-D body scanner to obtain the basic point-cloud data of the mannequin, and then seven suits with the same style and different ease allowance were scanned to obtain the point-cloud data of the suits. The distribution rules of the distance ease were demonstrated by adding the data of the suits and mannequin, and the mannequin-suit curves of ten characteristic positions were measured to build the calculative models between the distance ease and the ease allowance to realize the conversion between the ease allowance and the distance ease. The R 2 values of the regression models of the distance ease at all positions are all more than 0.9, verifying the accuracy of the models. Finally, the distance ease was converted into the pattern increments through curve simulation by taking the bust position as an example, and the example shows that the difference between the bust circumference of the garment and the body bust girth is -0.42 cm, which conforms to the standard error of the bust circumference of women's suits in China.

Key words: body measurement, point-cloud data, distance ease, pattern increment

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.26

Fig.1

Women's suits sample style. (a) Front; (b) Back"

Tab.1

Ease allowances and sizes of samples' characteristic positions"

尺寸
类型		 样衣
编号		 放松量/
cm		 胸围
B/cm		 腰围
W/cm		 臀围
H/cm
标准
人台
尺寸		 0# 0 84 66 90
西装
尺寸		 1# 贴体
0~4		 86 70 92
2# 88 72 94
3# 合体
6~12		 92 76 96
4# 94 78 98
5# 96 82 100
6# 宽松
16~24		 100 90 102
7# 104 94 104

Fig.2

Characteristic positions in upper body"

Fig.3

Insert points in cross-sectional curve of bust width"

Fig.4

Distance ease measurement in cross-sectional curve of bust width of seven different suits"

Fig.5

Distance ease distribution in cross-sectional curve of bust width"

Tab.2

Correlation analysis of girth differences"

特征部位
围度差		 与胸部松量
值相关性		 与腰部松量值
相关性		 与臀部松量
值相关性
肩部截面 0.976 0.949 0.999
上胸宽截面 0.987 0.979 0.989
胸宽截面 0.915 0.907 0.940
下胸宽截面 0.967 0.954 0.997
腋点处截面 0.932 0.911 0.942
下胸部截面 0.994 0.930 0.966
腹部截面 0.980 0.977 0.993

Fig.6

Inserted points in cross-sectional curve of bust width"

Tab.3

Ease allowance-distance ease model in cross-sectional curve of bust width"

插入点编号 回归模型 R2
1 Y=-0.559+0.154X3+0.001X32 0.988
2 Y=-0.183+0.091X3+0.00046X32 0.997
3 Y=0.477+0.124X3-0.003X32 0.951
4 Y=-0.312+0.223X3-0.007X32 0.928
5 Y=-1.028+0.440X3-0.005X32 0.995
6 Y=-2.113+0.859X3-0.021X32 0.999
16 Y=0.135-0.026X3+0.007X32 0.943
17 Y=-0.181+0.051X3+0.001X32 0.960
18 Y=0.060-0.002X3+0.001X32 0.994
19 Y=0.812+0.101X3-0.003X32 0.891
20 Y=0.224+0.090X3-0.001X32 0.986

Fig.7

Fitted bust curves between body and garment"

Tab.4

Pattern increments of inserted points in fitted bust curves between body and garment"

插入点 人体/cm 服装/cm 增量ΔL/cm
L1-2 8.50 10.31 1.81
L2-3 2.49 2.79 0.30
L3-4 3.83 3.63 -0.20
L4-5 3.95 4.11 0.16
L5-6 3.95 4.06 0.11
L15-16 4.28 4.49 0.21
L16-17 4.32 4.53 0.21
L17-18 3.53 3.56 0.03
L18-1 6.48 8.64 2.46

Fig.8

Convertion between prototype and ready-to-wear pattern"

[1] ASHDOWN S P, DUNNE L. A study of automated custom fit: readiness of the technology for the apparel industry[J]. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 2006,24:121-136.
[2] SONG H K, ASHDOWN S P. Development of automated custom-made pants driven by body shape[J]. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 2012,30:315-329.
[3] 张鸿志, 刘文玲. 服装CAD度身打板方法的研究[J]. 东华大学学报(自然科学版), 2004,30(1):93-96.
ZHANG Hongzhi, LIU Wenling. Research of computer aided made to measure pattern design method[J]. Journal of Donghua University (Natural Science Edition), 2004,30(1):93-96.
[4] CHEN Y, ZENG X, HAPPIETTE M, et al. Optimisation of garment design using fuzzy logic and sensory evaluation techniques[J]. Engineering Applications of Artificial Intelligence, 2009,22(2):272-282.
[5] PETROVA A, ASHDOWN S P. Three-dimensional body scan data analysis: body size and shape dependence of ease values for pants' fit[J]. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 2008,26(3):227-252.
[6] HIROKAWA T, MIYOSHI M. Relations between drafting factors of jacket pattern and wearing feeling of clothing: part 2: ease quantity and wearing feeling of clothing[J]. Journal of the Japan Research Association for Textile End-uses, 1997,38(4):218-226.
[7] 张爱萍, 王云仪, 姚仪. 服装胸围截面上距离松量的分配关系[J]. 纺织学报, 2012,33(6):76-80.
ZHANG Aiping, WANG Yunyi, YAO Yi. Study on relationships between garment's distance ease distribution at bust section[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2012,33(6):76-80.
[8] 周燕芬, 秦海涵. 服装放松量对人体与服装空间关系的影响研究[J]. 中原工学院学报, 2011,22(6):66-72.
ZHOU Yanfen, QIN Haihan. The influence of ease allowance on spatial relationship between body and garment[J]. Journal of Zhongyuan University of Technology, 2011,22(6):66-72.
[9] 顾冰菲. 个体化三维女上体人台构建及服装样板自动生成研究[D]. 苏州:苏州大学, 2016: 6.
GU Bingfei. 3D Virtual modeling of female upper body and automatic pattern generation[D]. Suzhou: Soochow University, 2016: 6.
[10] MIYOSHI M, HIROKAWA T. Study on the method of measuring a vacant space distance in a worn jacket for clothing pattern design: using the three-dimensional measuring system[J]. Journal of the Japan Research Association for Textile End-uses, 2001,42(4):233-242.
[11] LIN Y, XIONG H W, LUO S M, et al. The B-spline curve passing control points[J]. Journal of Southern Yangtze University (Natural Science Edition), 2003,2(6):553-556.
[1] BAO Chen, MIAO Yongwei, SUN Yuliang, ZHANG Xudong. Automatic measurement of three-dimensional human body based on scattered point cloud [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(01): 120-129.
[2] . Influential factors of upper crotch length in young male's pants [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2018, 39(09): 115-119.
[3] . Fitting and verifying of males’s back graphics measured by non-contact scanner [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2018, 39(04): 111-115.
[4] . Calculating method of characteristics girth of young female body by 3-D scanning data [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2017, 38(05): 110-114.
[5] . Camber features of women's shoulder and influence thereof on fitted clothes' structure [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2016, 37(10): 94-100.
[6] . Predicting model of young women’s breast surface area [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2016, 37(10): 101-106.
[7] . Survey and analysis on domestic and overseas human body database for garments’ use [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2015, 36(06): 141-147.
[8] . Construction of recognition model for young females’ hip shapes using probabilistic neural network (PNN) method based on 3-D body measurement [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2014, 35(4): 100-0.
[9] LI Xiao-Zhi.  Construction of 3-D body surface model based onpPartitioning [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2013, 34(9): 145-0.
[10] . Experimental study of grating phase-shifting profilometry for body measurement [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2013, 34(6): 83-87.
[11] WANG YongJin. Study of body anthropometrical method in motion state [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2013, 34(4): 104-110.
[12] ZHANG Ai-Ping, WANG Yun-Yi, YAO Yi. Study on relationships between garment’s distance ease distributions at bust section [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2012, 33(6): 76-80.
[13] . Optical triangulation and its applications in body measurement [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2012, 33(12): 95-101.
[14] WANG Hong-Fu. The study of the Womens′ shoulder based on 3-D body measurement [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2011, 32(5): 95-97.
[15] ZHENG Juan;DAI Jianguo;XU Rongrong;CHEN Meizhen;SHAO Xinyang. Development of draping specific ease model [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2011, 32(3): 105-109.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited
  Shared   
  Discussed   
No Suggested Reading articles found!
京ICP备14006648号
Copyright 2021 © Editorial office of Journal of Textile Research
Supported by Beijing Magtech Co.Ltd