Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (06): 32-37.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180703206

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Tearing properties of Jacquard warp knitted spacer fabric

SUN Wan, MIAO Xuhong(), WANG Xiaolei   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2018-07-13 Revised:2019-02-26 Online:2019-06-15 Published:2019-06-25
  • Contact: MIAO Xuhong E-mail:miaoxuhong@163.com

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Abstract:

In order to improve the mechanical properties of the vamp by rationally configuring the Jacquard structure, eight kinds of Jacquard structure commonly used in vamp materials were adopted to study the tearing properties weftwise and warpwise of the Jacquard warp knitted spacer fabric and some single-layer fabrics. The weftwise and warpwise tearing mechanism, destruction of fabric and the tearing curve characteristics of the Jacquard warp knitted spacer fabric were summarized. The influence of Jacquard structure on the tearing strength of weftwise and warpwise was also researched. When the fabric is transversely torn, the fabric is first broken along the weft direction and then along the warp direction. When the fabric is longitudinally torn, the fabric is destroyed completely in the warp direction. The curve of the weftwise tearing fluctuates greatly, while the warpwise tearing curve is relatively regular. The tearing curve and characteristics are mainly determined by the Jacquard side, and the length of the tearing weftwise is mainly determined by the side with the smaller tear length. The tear strength of Jacquard spacer fabric with a thin structure is minimum either in weft direction or warp direction, which should not be used when the tearing strength of the upper material is insufficient.

Key words: warp knitting, spacer fabric, Jacquard, tearing property, vamp material

CLC Number: 

  • TS186.1

Tab.1

Technical parameters of samples"

梳栉
编号		 垫纱组织 原料规格 穿纱 送经量/
(mm·腊克-1)
GB1 1-0-0-0/2-
3-3-3//		 166.67 dtex(48 f)
涤纶FDY		 满穿 2 360
GB2 1-0-0-0/0-
1-1-1//		 166.67 dtex(48 f)
涤纶FDY		 满穿 1 480
GB3 1-0-2-1/2-
3-1-2//		 33.33 d tex
涤纶单丝		 满穿 7 600
JB4 1-1-1-0/1-
1-1-2//		 166.67 dtex(48 f)
涤纶FDY		 满穿 -
GB5 1-1-1-0/1-
1-0-1//		 166.67 dtex(48 f)
涤纶FDY		 满穿 1 480

Tab. 2

Specifications of sample"

试样
编号		 成品横密/
(纵行·cm-1)		 成品纵密/
(横列·cm-1)		 贾卡梳送
经量/
(mm·腊克-1)		 面密度/
(g·m-2)
1# 25 36.0 2 220 479.9
2# 25 41.0 2 360 519.9
3# 25 40.0 2 290 500.1
4# 25 38.0 2 240 482.8
5# 24 38.0 2 170 477.8
6# 24 39.5 2 270 489.7
7# 25 38.0 2 250 496.9
8# 25 39.0 2 270 506.6

Fig.1

Jacquard drafted pattern"

Fig.2

Photo of samples"

Fig.3

Tearing curve of spacer fabric and single layer fabric. (a) Tearing curve of weft tearing of 8# and single layer fabric; (b) Tearing curve of weft tearing of 2# and Jacquard; (c) Tearing curve of warp tearing of 8# and Jacquard"

Fig.4

Tearing destruction of samples in weft and warp. (a) Tearing destruction of spacer fabric in warp; (b) Tearing destruction of single layer fabric in warp; (c) Tearing destruction of spacer fabric in weft; (d) Tearing destruction of single layer fabric in weft"

Fig.5

Coil structure diagram of Jacquard"

Tab.3

Tear strength and tear length of spacer fabric and single layer in weft"

试样
编号		 横向撕裂
强力/N		 横向撕裂
长度/mm		 纵向撕裂
强力/N		 纵向撕裂
长度/mm
1# 89.88 52.25 55.59 179.18
1#-1 50.93 54.07 32.90 164.50
1#-2 34.43 157.07 14.82 190.24
2# 137.38 94.02 65.01 158.04
2#-2 35.83 289.33 23.27 146.92
3# 110.81 71.97 60.04 188.42
4# 91.89 62.96 68.56 193.81
5# 95.14 72.65 75.21 122.66
5#-2 32.89 169.43 31.05 160.40
6# 90.11 70.52 61.41 77.73
7# 92.97 63.91 61.00 168.50
8# 96.67 72.29 62.39 159.38
8#-2 49.57 148.03 28.10 170.17
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