Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (09): 128-135.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180803008

• Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Analysis on blue dyes in She costumes by ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography-diode array detection-tandem mass spectrometry

YAN Jing1,2, ZHANG Xun1, LEI Guangzhen3, FAN Xuerong1()   

  1. 1. School of Textile and Clothing, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
    2. School of Art Design, Zhejiang A & F University, Lin'an, Zhejiang 311300, China
    3. Chinese She Museum, Jingning, Zhejiang 323500, China
  • Received:2018-08-13 Revised:2018-12-23 Online:2019-09-15 Published:2019-09-23
  • Contact: FAN Xuerong E-mail:wxfxr@163.com

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Abstract:

In order to identify blue dye components of the She costume, four historical textiles in the Chinese She Museum were characterized by ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography-diode array detection-quadrupole time-of-flight tandem mass spectrometry. By means of separation of extractive solution by ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography, the qualitative analysis of dyestuff was carried out according to the retention time, the exact molecular mass of the compound and the UV-visible absorption spectrum, from high resolution time-of-flight mass spectrometry data and spectral data collected by diode array detector. The results show that all the blue samples are dyed by indigo blue. According to the background of these cultural relics, the natural indigo and synthetic indigo dyes are probably both used in Lishui area at the end of the Qing Dynasty. The synthetic indigo dyed yarn might be introduced to She people in Jingning area in the early 20th century. The natural indigo dye is still used by She people in Jingning after the founding of the People's Republic of China.

Key words: She costume, natural indigo, identification, ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography, diode array detection, tandem mass spectrometry

CLC Number: 

  • TS193

Fig.1

Test samples. (a) Sample 1;(b) Sample 2; (c) Sample 3; (d) Sample 4"

Tab.1

UHPLC gradient elution system"

时间/min 体积分数/%
A B
初始 2.00 98.00
0.10 2.00 98.00
8.00 40.00 60.00
10.00 80.00 20.00
12.00 100.00 0.00
12.10 2.00 98.00

Fig.2

UHPLC chromatograms of standards"

Fig.3

MS/MS spectra of three standards corresponding to UHPLC peak at different retention time. (a) Synthetic indigo, t=4.36 min;(b) Indirubin, t=4.80 min; (c)Natural indigo, t=4.33 min; (d) Natural indigo, t=4.78 min"

Fig.4

UV-visible absorption spectra of standards. (a) Synthetic indigo, t=4.28 min; (b) Indirubin, t=4.73 min;(c)Natural indigo, t=4.29 min; (d) Natural indigo, t=4.72 min"

Fig.5

UHPLC chromatogram of sample 1"

Fig.6

MS /MS spectrum of sample 1 (t=4.36 min)"

Fig.7

UV-visible absorption spectrogram of sample 1(t=4.29 min)"

Fig.8

UHPLC chromatogram of sample 2"

Fig.9

MS/MS spectra of sample 2"

Fig.10

UV visible absorption spectrograms of sample 2"

Fig.11

UHPLC chromatograms of sample 3"

Fig.12

MS /MS spectrum of sample 3(t=4.36 min)"

Fig.13

UV visible absorption spectrogram of sample 3(t=4.29 min)"

Fig.14

UHPLC chromatogram of sample 4"

Fig.15

MS /MS spectra of sample 4"

Fig.16

UV-visible absorption spectrograms of sample 4"

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