Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (11): 151-154.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20181001804

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Correlation between change of shoulders' structure and armhole angle in lady's wear

LI Yang, SHEN Hong, WU Jing()   

  1. College of Biomass Science and Engineering, Sichuan University, Chengdu, Sichuan 610065, China
  • Received:2018-10-10 Revised:2019-07-25 Online:2019-11-15 Published:2019-11-26
  • Contact: WU Jing E-mail:491588023@qq.com

Abstract:

In order to provide theoretical basis for the design of shoulder structure, explore the relationship between the shoulder structure and the armhole structure in lady's wear and establish a theoretical research model a three-dimensional cutting method was adopted, and different thickness of shoulder pads were adopted to change the shoulder slope to thereby change the shoulders' structure. By the three-dimensional to two-dimensional transformation, the shoulder slope and the angle of the armhole were accurately measured on the flat developing drawings of the garment pieces, and the data correlation was analyzed. By making ready-to-wear garments, the conventional proportional method was compared with the method using the experimental results. It is concluded that a linear correlation exists between the shoulder pad thickness and the shoulder slope; the change of the shoulders' structure in lady's wear affects the angle of the armhole, and the shoulder slope is linearly related to the angle of the armhole. The results showed that by adopting the linear correlation into the design of structure of lady's wear, the ready-to-wear garments are fitter than those by the conventional proportional method.

Key words: lady's wear design, shoulders' structure, armhole structure, armhole angle, shoulder slope

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.17

Fig.1

Fitted pieces with different thicknesses of shoulder pads"

Fig.2

Method for measuring shoulder slopes and armhole angles"

Tab.1

Shoulder slopes and armhole angles of P1~ P6"

编号 垫肩厚度/cm 肩斜度/(°) 袖窿夹角/(°)
P1 0 20 25
P2 0.5 15 22
P3 1.0 12 20
P4 1.5 10 18
P5 2.0 9 15
P6 2.5 7 13

Fig.3

Correlation analysis between shoulder slopes and shoulder pads thicknesses"

Fig.4

Correlation analysis between armhole angles and shoulder slopes"

Tab.2

Garment shoulder slopes and armhole angles of T1~ T5"

编号 身高/m 体重/kg 人体肩斜度/(°) 衣身肩斜度/(°) 袖窿夹角/(°)
T1
T2
1.70
1.72
52
53
24
19
21
20
27
26
T3 1.68 50 17 19 25
T4 1.67 48 20 20 26
T5 1.68 48 18 19 25
[1] 贾双. 肩部外轮廓造型的影响因子研究:以女西装为例[J]. 国际纺织导报, 2014(8):64-68.
JIA Shuang. Analysis of impact factors on the woman suit shoulder silhouette[J]. Melliand-China, 2014(8):64-68.
[2] 李正. 论上衣结构设计之要点[J]. 苏州大学学报(工科版), 2002(6):24-26.
LI Zheng. Research on the main points of coat structure design[J]. Journal of Soochow University (Engineering Science Edition), 2002(6):24-26.
[3] 张丹. 对服装设计中夸张肩部造型的解读[J]. 丝绸, 2010(9):42-45.
ZHANG Dan. Understanding of shoulder's model in the design of clothing[J]. Journal of Silk, 2010 (9):42-45.
[4] 王凤丽. 肩斜度的结构平衡[J]. 国际纺织导报, 2002(2):82-83.
WANG Fengli. The structure balance of shoulder slope[J]. Melliand-China, 2002(2):82-83.
[5] 贺义军, 石小强, 王宏付, 等. 青年女性肩部弯度特征及贴体女上装结构影响[J]. 纺织学报, 2016,37(10):94-100.
HE Yijun, SHI Xiaoqiang, WANG Hongfu, et al. Camber features of women's shoulder and influence thereof on fitted clothes' structure[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2016,37(10):94-100.
doi: 10.1177/004051756703700205
[6] 李钊. 女装肩部造型相关因子分析[D]. 上海:东华大学, 2011:31-40.
LI Zhao. The research of related factor on women shoulder's shoulder silhouette[D]. Shanghai: Donghua University, 2011: 31-40.
[7] 方方, 张渭源, 张文斌, 等. 人体测量标准的研究[J]. 东华大学学报(自然科学版), 2005(1):132-138.
FANG Fang, ZHANG Weiyuan, ZHANG Wenbin, et al. Study on standards of the human body measurement[J]. Journal of Donghua University(Natural Science Edition), 2005(1):132-138.
[8] 三吉满智子. 服装造型学:理论[M].郑嵘,张浩,韩洁羽,译. 北京: 中国纺织出版社, 2006: 157.
MIYOSHI Tomoko. Clothing Modeling: Theory[M].ZHENG Rong, ZHANG Hao, HAN Jieyu, Translating. Beijing: China Textile & Apparel Press, 2006: 157.
[9] 潘春宇, 吕吉, 梁惠娥, 等. 女上体肩斜度测量与其反三角函数推演[J]. 纺织科技进展, 2011(6):69-72.
PAN Chunyu, LV Ji, LIANG Huie, et al. Shoulder slope measurement and its inverse trigonometric function deduction in lady's coat[J]. Progress in Textile Science & Technology, 2011(6):69-72.
[10] 翟黎莉, 钱晓明, 王瑞, 等. 女性人体美评指标的研究进展[J]. 纺织学报, 2009,30(1):131-134.
ZHAI Lili, QIAN Xiaoming, WANG Rui, et al. Advances in study of evaluation indexes of female physical attractiveness[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2009,30(1):131-134.
[11] 李小辉, 张思严, 赵楚瞳, 等. 衣身肩斜角与人体体型特征的关系[J]. 纺织学报, 2018,39(11):111-115.
LI Xiaohui, ZHANG Siyan, ZHAO Chutong, et al. Relationship between garment shoulder angle and characteristics of human body[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2018,39(11):111-115.
[12] 石玲. 服装肩部结构及其相关因素分析[J]. 浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报, 2008(2):29-32.
SHI Ling. Analysis of the shoulder structure of clothing and related factors[J]. Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology, 2008(2):29-32.
[1] XIAO Ping, QIAN Bodan, LU Hong, ZHANG Xianghui, ZHANG Yuan. Research progress on flatness of garment sewing [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(11): 182-188.
[2] HU Ziting, ZHENG Xiaohui, FENG Mingming, WANG Yingjian, LIU Li, DING Songtao. Influence of air gap on thermal and moisture properties of permeable protective clothing [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(11): 145-150.
[3] WANG Min, LI Jun. Three-dimensional on-site scanning measurement and characterization of air gap entrapped between flame manikin and clothing [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(01): 114-119.
[4] . Heat-moisture comfort of fire-fighter’s protective clothing materials [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2017, 38(03): 122-125.
[5] . Construction of radial basis function neural network models for typical cross section curve of shorts [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2015, 36(05): 83-88.
[6] . Shape analysis of bust slice using Elliptic Fourier [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2014, 35(7): 107-0.
[7] . Construction of female’s bottoms size grading model based on neural network ensemble [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2013, 34(8): 110-0.
[8] . Surface temperature uniformity of thermal manikin [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2012, 33(10): 113-116.
[9] WANG Yun-Yi, ZHAO Meng-Meng. Objective evaluation on thermal adjusting effect of PCM cooling vest under high temperature and strong radiation [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2012, 33(5): 101-105.
[10] . The Analysis of Somatotype of School Girl in Liaoning Province [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2011, 32(9): 104-108.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited

  Shared   
  Discussed   
No Suggested Reading articles found!