Journal of Textile Research ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (02): 58-63.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20181202106

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Design principal and practice of layered-combination mode for digital jacquard fabric

ZHOU Jiu(), LU Shuangyi   

  1. Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
  • Received:2018-12-10 Revised:2019-10-09 Online:2020-02-15 Published:2020-02-21

Abstract:

Referring to the issue that the weave structure and color expression on the face of jacquard fabric are restricted via traditional graphic design process, an innovative layered-combination design mode for jacquard fabric was suggested, based on the digital image design principal that by layering then combining color information for color expressing, by considering the construction of jacquard fabric as a combination of several weave structures. Meanwhile, the design of complex compound structures of jacquard fabric was implemented through independent design and combination of structure layers of the fabric. Besides, the basic framework of the research, the technology application as well as the innovative product innovation system based on digital jacquard fabric layered-combination design mode, was built up on the basis of the design principle, design methods and critical technical issues of digital jacquard fabric layered-combination design mode. The application values have already been proved by the design practices.

Key words: digital textile, jacquard fabric, plane design mode, layered-combination design mode

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.26

Fig.1

Design concept of layered-combination design mode"

Fig.2

Design principle of layered-combination design mode for digital pattern"

Fig.3

Design principle of layered-combination mode for jacquard structure design"

Tab.1

Technique comparison between layered-combination design mode and single-layered plane design mode"

类别 单一平面设计模式 分层组合设计模式
设计理念 单一平面中色彩
与结构设计
色彩与结构分层设计和组合
原理和方法 纹样中色彩与结构
一一对应原则
色彩分层,结构组合
组织设计 单一组织设计方法 全息组织和组织库
色彩原理 无规律的经验混色 有规律的中间混色
织物结构 由各单一组织
平排而成
由若干单层结构
分层组合而成
色彩效果 清晰边缘的色块 多彩晕纹
色彩数 64以下 百万级别
织物效果 机械的模仿纹样 无法复制的数码化效果

Fig.4

Research framework on design application of layered-combination design mode"

Fig.5

Product innovation system of digital jacquard fabric"

Fig.6

Black-and-white simulation design with grey. (a)Grey shading;(b)Fabric effect"

Fig.7

Colorful simulation design with multi-color shading. (a) Multi-color shading;(b)Fabric effect"

Fig.8

Double-faced pattern simulation design. (a) Fabric I;(b) Fabric II"

Fig.9

Innovation design via layer shift and superposition. (a) Original;(b) Shift 50 pixels;(c) Shift 200 pixels"

Fig.10

Innovation design via layer increase and decrease"

[1] 浙江丝绸工学院, 苏州丝绸工学院. 织物组织与纹织学[M] . 北京:中国纺织出版社, 1997: 130-131.
Zhejiang Institute of Silk and Textiles, Suzhou Institute of Silk and Textiles. Weave and structure of woven fabric[M]. Beijing:Textile & Apparel Press, 1997: 130-131.
[2] KIM K R, NG F, ZHOU J, et al. Diamond-shaped shaded weave series created by transforming small twills to enrich the surface texture of woven Jacquards[J]. Textile Research Journal, 2016,86(10):1032-1040.
[3] 周赳, 蒋烨瑾. 基于数码技术的提花织物产品创新[J]. 纺织学报, 2009,30(11):53-56.
ZHOU Jiu, JIANG Yejin. Innovative design of jacquard fabrics based on digital technology[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2009,30(11):53-56.
[4] MICHAEL W. Jacquard[J]. Georgia Review 2016,70(3):582-583.
[5] WEINSDORFER H. 50 years of weaving technology[J]. International Textile Bulletin 2004( 3):54-56.
[6] 周赳, 吴文正. 数码提花织物创新设计的实质[J]. 纺织学报, 2007,28(7):31-35.
ZHOU Jiu, WU Wenzheng. Essence of innovative design on digital jacquard fabric[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2007,28(7):31-35.
[7] MATHUR K, DONALDSON A, HINKS D, et al. Color on demand for Jacquard fabrics[J]. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 2005,9(4):26-37.
[8] SPEICH F. Patterned fabric and method for produce it: US20050241719A1[P]. 2005-11-03.
[9] NG F, ZHOU J. Innovative layered-combination mode for digital Jacquard fabric design[J]. Textile Research Journal, 2009,79(8):737-748.
[10] NG F, ZHOU J. Full-colour compound structure for digital Jacquard fabric design[J]. Journal of the Textile Institute, 2010,101(1):52-57.
[11] 周赳, 张萌, 金诗怡. 组合半遮盖提花结构设计原理与方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2017,38(6):39-43.
ZHOU Jiu, ZHANG Meng, JIN Shiyi. Design principle and method of combined jacquard half-backed structure[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2017,38(6):39-43.
[12] OSAKI K. High quality color reproduction on Jacquard silk textile from digital color images[J]. AUTEX Research Journal, 2003,3(4):173-179.
[13] NG F, KIM K R, HU J, et al. Patterning technique for expanding color variety of Jacquard fabrics in alignment with shaded weave structures[J]. Textile Research Journal, 2014,84(17):1820-1828.
[14] CHAE Y, XIN J, HUA T. Color prediction models for digital Jacquard woven fabrics[J]. Color Research & Application, 2016,41(1):64-71.
[15] 周赳, 吴文正. 无彩数码提花织物的创新设计原理和方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2006,27(4):1-4.
ZHOU Jiu, WU Wenzheng. Innovative principle and method of colourless digital Jacquard fabric design[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2006,27(4):1-4.
[16] 周赳, 吴文正. 有彩数码提花织物的创新设计原理和方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2006,27(5):6-9.
ZHOU Jiu, WU Wenzheng. Innovative principle and method of colourful digital Jacquard fabric design[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2006,27(5):6-9.
[1] PENG Xi, ZHOU Jiu. Characteristics and evolution of backed weave structure of brocade in ancient China [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(09): 67-75.
[2] ZHANG Aidan, ZHOU Jiu. Grayscale simulation characteristics of jacquard fabric with cluster-dotted structure [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(03): 62-67.
[3] JIA Xiaojun, YE Lihua, DENG Hongtao, LIU Zihao, LU Fengjie. Elements classification of vein patterns using convolutional neural networks for blue calico [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(01): 110-117.
[4] LIANG Jialu, CONG Honglian, ZHANG Aijun. Technical design model of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(01): 69-74.
[5] ZHANG Aidan, ZHOU Jiu. Design principle and method of texture effect in jacquard fabric based on full-color compound structure [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(05): 36-40.
[6] . Design research and practice on gradient weft-full-backed structure [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2018, 39(01): 32-38.
[7] . Design Principle and method of compound jacquard half-backed structure [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2017, 38(06): 40-45.
[8] . Design of high pattern jacquard fabric based on shaded weaves [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2017, 38(05): 49-52.
[9] . Deformation simulation of double jacquard fabric with mass-spring model [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2017, 38(01): 146-151.
[10] . Defect detection for mini-jacquard fabric based on visual saliency [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2016, 37(12): 38-42.
[11] . Computer simulation of warp knitted dodge lap jacquard fabric [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2016, 37(12): 134-139.
[12] . Simulation design of digital jacquard fabric based on separated color gamut of Red-Green-Blue [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2016, 37(07): 61-65.
[13] . Computer simulation and system realization of 3-D weft knitted jacquard fabric [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2016, 37(07): 155-161.
[14] . Design principle and method of color gradient expression on double-warp double-weft jacquard fabric [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2016, 37(06): 36-41.
[15] . Structural analysis and technical design of warp knitted broché fabric [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2016, 37(01): 52-56.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited

  Shared   
  Discussed   
No Suggested Reading articles found!