Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (12): 114-118.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20181203405

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Influences of waist shape classification of young female on position setting of cheongsam waist dart

LIU Tao1(), XU Liping2, ZOU Fengyuan3   

  1. 1. Nanhu College, Jiaxing University, Jiaxing, Zhejiang 314001, China
    2. College of Design, Jiaxing University, Jiaxing, Zhejiang 314001, China
    3. School of Fashion Design & Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
  • Received:2018-12-13 Revised:2019-05-19 Online:2019-12-15 Published:2019-12-18

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Abstract:

In order to explore the relationship between waist dart design and waist shape, the waist data of young female extracted by three-dimensional body scanner, and the characteristic variables such as hip angle and the waist vector cross ratio reflecting the waist shape of young women were extracted. The waist shapes were classified into 9 types by using clustering analysis. The mass-flat type, wasp-waisted flat type and mass-cylindrical type have the highest coverage among the nine types. Then the design of waist darts was optimized based on the basic pattern of cheongsam. By subjective evaluation analysis, the mass-flat type and the mass-cylindrical type will have the best effect if the waist darts on the bisector. The wasp-waisted flat type will have the best effect if the front waist darts on the bisector and the back ones on the point of quartered close to side seam.

Key words: young female, waist shape, cheongsam, waist dart, dart design

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.2

Fig.1

Different position around waist circumference"

Fig.2

Schematic diagram of distance between points and reference line"

Fig.3

Schematic diagram of hip angle(a) and waist section(b)"

Fig.4

Waist sections above(a)and under(b)waist circumference"

Tab.1

Descriptive statistical analysis of derived variables"

派生变量 计算公式 极小值 极大值 均值 标准差
腰臀角/(°) arctan[(后腰到参考线的距离D-臀凸到参考线的
距离H)/(腰部高度-臀部高度)]		 2.07 21.49 12.955 1 3.957 23
腰矢横径比 腰宽/腰厚 1.18 1.67 1.402 0 0.116 64
A1/cm 腰围以上2 cm到参考线的距离-后腰到参考线距离 -1.40 1.10 0.314 3 0.259 96
A2/cm 腰围以上4 cm到参考线的距离-腰围以上2 cm到参考线的距离 -0.30 2.60 0.389 9 0.255 63
A3/cm 腰围以上6 cm到参考线的距离-腰围以上4 cm到参考线的距离 -0.10 1.00 0.397 6 0.185 06
A4/cm 腰围以上8 cm到参考线的距离-腰围以上6 cm到参考线的距离 -0.50 3.10 0.348 3 0.209 84
A-1/cm 腰围以下2 cm到参考线的距离-后腰到参考线距离 -1.00 0.50 -0.145 2 0.284 49
A-2/cm 腰围以下4 cm到参考线的距离-腰围以下2 cm到参考线的距离 -2.00 1.70 0.095 2 0.396 97
A-3/cm 腰围以下6 cm到参考线的距离-腰围以下4 cm到参考线的距离 -1.90 2.10 0.303 6 0.401 18
A-4/cm 腰围以下8 cm到参考线的距离-腰围以下6 cm到参考线的距离 -0.30 2.80 0.383 6 0.198 46

Tab.2

Results of combination classification"

类型名称 腰臀角/(°) 腰矢横径比 覆盖率/%
大众(Pp)型 8.4 ~ 15.0 1.3 ~ 1.4 9.10
大众圆身(Po)型 8.4 ~ 15.0 < 1.3 13.69
大众扁身(Pi)型 8.4 ~ 15.0 > 1.4 29.76
凹腰大众(Up)型 > 15.0 1.3 ~ 1.4 8.90
凹腰圆身(Uo)型 > 15.0 < 1.3 1.79
凹腰扁身(Ui)型 > 15.0 > 1.4 16.07
平腰大众(Ip)型 < 8.4 1.3 ~ 1.4 5.95
平腰圆身(Io)型 < 8.4 < 1.3 5.95
平腰扁身(Ii)型 < 8.4 > 1.4 2.98

Tab.3

Coverage of waist shape of different heights%"

类型 155 cm 160 cm 165 cm 170 cm 175 cm
Pp型 3.61 4.76 1.79 1.19 0.60
Po型 2.43 6.55 4.76 0.00 0.00
Pi型 10.12 12.50 7.14 0.00 0.00
Up型 4.21 2.98 4.17 0.60 0.00
Uo型 0.00 0.60 1.19 0.00 0.00
Ui型 6.04 6.55 3.57 0.00 0.00
Ip型 1.23 1.79 2.98 0.00 0.00
Io型 1.26 3.57 1.19 0.00 0.00
Ii型 1.21 1.79 0.00 0.00 0.00

Tab.4

Participant body datas"

试穿者编号 胸围/cm 腰围/cm 臀围/cm 肩宽/cm 领围/cm 衣长/cm 腰厚/cm 腰宽/cm 腰矢横径比 腰臀角/(°)
a 80 66 92 39 32 85 22.5 15 1.5 15.0
b 85 69 90 36 38 90 26.0 20 1.4 17.8
c 90 74 94 37 38 95 24.0 20 1.2 11.6

Fig.5

Wearing state of front (a), side (b) and back (c)"

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