Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (12): 114-118.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20181203405

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Influences of waist shape classification of young female on position setting of cheongsam waist dart

LIU Tao1(), XU Liping2, ZOU Fengyuan3   

  1. 1. Nanhu College, Jiaxing University, Jiaxing, Zhejiang 314001, China
    2. College of Design, Jiaxing University, Jiaxing, Zhejiang 314001, China
    3. School of Fashion Design & Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
  • Received:2018-12-13 Revised:2019-05-19 Online:2019-12-15 Published:2019-12-18

RichHTML

4

PDF (PC)

312

Abstract:

In order to explore the relationship between waist dart design and waist shape, the waist data of young female extracted by three-dimensional body scanner, and the characteristic variables such as hip angle and the waist vector cross ratio reflecting the waist shape of young women were extracted. The waist shapes were classified into 9 types by using clustering analysis. The mass-flat type, wasp-waisted flat type and mass-cylindrical type have the highest coverage among the nine types. Then the design of waist darts was optimized based on the basic pattern of cheongsam. By subjective evaluation analysis, the mass-flat type and the mass-cylindrical type will have the best effect if the waist darts on the bisector. The wasp-waisted flat type will have the best effect if the front waist darts on the bisector and the back ones on the point of quartered close to side seam.

Key words: young female, waist shape, cheongsam, waist dart, dart design

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.2

Fig.1

Different position around waist circumference"

Fig.2

Schematic diagram of distance between points and reference line"

Fig.3

Schematic diagram of hip angle(a) and waist section(b)"

Fig.4

Waist sections above(a)and under(b)waist circumference"

Tab.1

Descriptive statistical analysis of derived variables"

派生变量 计算公式 极小值 极大值 均值 标准差
腰臀角/(°) arctan[(后腰到参考线的距离D-臀凸到参考线的
距离H)/(腰部高度-臀部高度)]		 2.07 21.49 12.955 1 3.957 23
腰矢横径比 腰宽/腰厚 1.18 1.67 1.402 0 0.116 64
A1/cm 腰围以上2 cm到参考线的距离-后腰到参考线距离 -1.40 1.10 0.314 3 0.259 96
A2/cm 腰围以上4 cm到参考线的距离-腰围以上2 cm到参考线的距离 -0.30 2.60 0.389 9 0.255 63
A3/cm 腰围以上6 cm到参考线的距离-腰围以上4 cm到参考线的距离 -0.10 1.00 0.397 6 0.185 06
A4/cm 腰围以上8 cm到参考线的距离-腰围以上6 cm到参考线的距离 -0.50 3.10 0.348 3 0.209 84
A-1/cm 腰围以下2 cm到参考线的距离-后腰到参考线距离 -1.00 0.50 -0.145 2 0.284 49
A-2/cm 腰围以下4 cm到参考线的距离-腰围以下2 cm到参考线的距离 -2.00 1.70 0.095 2 0.396 97
A-3/cm 腰围以下6 cm到参考线的距离-腰围以下4 cm到参考线的距离 -1.90 2.10 0.303 6 0.401 18
A-4/cm 腰围以下8 cm到参考线的距离-腰围以下6 cm到参考线的距离 -0.30 2.80 0.383 6 0.198 46

Tab.2

Results of combination classification"

类型名称 腰臀角/(°) 腰矢横径比 覆盖率/%
大众(Pp)型 8.4 ~ 15.0 1.3 ~ 1.4 9.10
大众圆身(Po)型 8.4 ~ 15.0 < 1.3 13.69
大众扁身(Pi)型 8.4 ~ 15.0 > 1.4 29.76
凹腰大众(Up)型 > 15.0 1.3 ~ 1.4 8.90
凹腰圆身(Uo)型 > 15.0 < 1.3 1.79
凹腰扁身(Ui)型 > 15.0 > 1.4 16.07
平腰大众(Ip)型 < 8.4 1.3 ~ 1.4 5.95
平腰圆身(Io)型 < 8.4 < 1.3 5.95
平腰扁身(Ii)型 < 8.4 > 1.4 2.98

Tab.3

Coverage of waist shape of different heights%"

类型 155 cm 160 cm 165 cm 170 cm 175 cm
Pp型 3.61 4.76 1.79 1.19 0.60
Po型 2.43 6.55 4.76 0.00 0.00
Pi型 10.12 12.50 7.14 0.00 0.00
Up型 4.21 2.98 4.17 0.60 0.00
Uo型 0.00 0.60 1.19 0.00 0.00
Ui型 6.04 6.55 3.57 0.00 0.00
Ip型 1.23 1.79 2.98 0.00 0.00
Io型 1.26 3.57 1.19 0.00 0.00
Ii型 1.21 1.79 0.00 0.00 0.00

Tab.4

Participant body datas"

试穿者编号 胸围/cm 腰围/cm 臀围/cm 肩宽/cm 领围/cm 衣长/cm 腰厚/cm 腰宽/cm 腰矢横径比 腰臀角/(°)
a 80 66 92 39 32 85 22.5 15 1.5 15.0
b 85 69 90 36 38 90 26.0 20 1.4 17.8
c 90 74 94 37 38 95 24.0 20 1.2 11.6

Fig.5

Wearing state of front (a), side (b) and back (c)"

[1] 陈研, 张竞琼. 近代改良旗袍造型中的西方元素[J]. 纺织学报, 2013,34(6):93-97.
CHEN Yan, ZHANG Jingqiong. Western elements in molding of modern modified cheongsam[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2013,34(6):93-97.
[2] 陈礼玲. 传统旗袍与改良旗袍结构设计比较研究[J]. 江苏丝绸, 2013(3):27-30.
CHEN Liling. The research of contrast between traditional cheongsam and modified cheongsam in pattern design[J]. Jiangsu Silk, 2013(3):27-30.
[3] 石云, 林燕宁. 省道在旗袍发展中的作用[J]. 文艺生活, 2013(1):48.
SHI Yun, LIN Yanning. The role of darts in the development of cheongsam[J]. Literary Life, 2013(1):48.
[4] 江影, 张晓夏, 秦芳. 基于认知行为学的旗袍廓形感知评价研究[J]. 北京服装学院学报, 2018,38(3):68-76.
JIANG Ying, ZHANG Xiaoxia, QIN Fang. Research on perception evaluation of cheongsam profile based on cognitive behavior[J]. Journal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, 2018,38(3):68-76.
[5] 戴鸿, 陈国桢. 省道变位在服装中的应用[J]. 四川丝绸, 2003(4):42-43.
DAI Hong, CHEN Guozhen. The application of the change of darts in clothing design[J]. Sichuan Silk, 2003(4):42-43.
[6] 孙茜. 关于旗袍领口结构设计的思考[J]. 西部皮革, 2016,10:70-71.
SUN Qian. Thoughts of neckline pattern in cheong-sam[J]. Western Leather, 2016,10:70-71.
[7] 郑文赵, 罗琴. 凸腹体型女装旗袍纸样修正技术研究[J]. 纺织报告, 2018(5):67-70.
ZHENG Wenzhao, LUO Qin. Research on the correction technology of the cheongsam pattern of convex body type women[J]. Textile Report, 2018(5):67-70.
[8] 宋莹, 王宝环. 不同的省量设置对标准体旗袍造型的影响[J]. 丝绸, 2017,54(9):25-30.
SONG Ying, WANG Baohuan. The influence of different size of darts to the effect of based cheongsam pattern[J]. Journal of Silk, 2017,54(9):25-30.
[9] 史玉媛, 申鸿, 魏振乾. 腰省量分配对无袖修身旗袍造型的影响[J]. 纺织学报, 2018,39(8):105-109.
SHI Yuyuan, SHEN Hong, WEI Zhenqian. Influence of sleeveless fitted cheongsam waist dart distribution on apparel modeling[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2018,39(8):105-109.
[10] 陈文飞. 基于服装合体性的女性人体体型研究[D]. 上海:东华大学, 2001:46.
CHEN Wenfei. Research on female body type based on clothing fit[D]. Shanghai: Donghua University, 2001:46.
[11] 何慧, 王建萍, 支欢欢, 等. 基于裤装合体性的青年女性臀部分类[J]. 东华大学学报(自然科学版), 2015,41(3):313-317.
HE Hui, WANG Jianping, ZHI Huanhuan, et al. Hip shape classification of young female based on pants fit[J]. Journal of Douhua University (Nature Science Edition), 2015,41(3):313-317.
[1] LIU Yongmei, HAN Tianqi, ZHANG Xianghui, LÜ Fanglan. Pattern design method of traditional cheongsam [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(06): 99-104.
[2] LI Yuhong, LI Yang, WU Jing. Application of oblique split lines in modern cheongsam structure [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(05): 129-133.
[3] . In fluence of sleeveless fitted cheongsam waist dart distribution on apparel modeling [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2018, 39(08): 105-109.
[4] . Application effect of blue and white patterns of Ming Dynasty on cheongsam [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2018, 39(01): 126-132.
[5] . Young female body shape classification and prototype patterns based on wavelet coefficient [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2017, 38(12): 119-123.
[6] . Western elements in molding of modern modified cheongsam [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2013, 34(6): 93-97.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited
  Shared   
  Discussed   
No Suggested Reading articles found!
京ICP备14006648号
Copyright 2021 © Editorial office of Journal of Textile Research
Supported by Beijing Magtech Co.Ltd