Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (12): 39-44.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20190204306

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Shape retention and wearing properties of polyester filament/cotton composite yarn twill fabrics

WEI Yanhong1, LIU Xinjin1(), XIE Chunping1, SU Xuzhong1, ZHANG Zhongxi2   

  1. 1. Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles(Jiangnan University), Ministry of Education, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
    2. Nantong Textile Holding Group Textile Dyeing Limited Company, Nantong, Jiangsu 226007, China
  • Received:2019-02-25 Revised:2019-07-30 Online:2019-12-15 Published:2019-12-18
  • Contact: LIU Xinjin E-mail:liuxinjin2006@163.com

RichHTML

3

PDF (PC)

155

Abstract:

In order to study shape retention and wearing properties of polyester(PET) filament/cotton composite yarn twill fabrics, three kinds of 9.8 tex yarns were developed from PET filament and pure cotton yarn. Four kinds of fabrics were woven with two up two down twill weaves. The shape retention and wearing properties of the fabrics were tested, such as wrinkle recovery, ironing-free, dimensional stability, drapability, tensile strength, tensile resilience, bursting property, handle style, moisture and air permeability. The shape retention and wearing properties of pure cotton fabric and composite yarn fabric were compared and analyzed. The results show that the PET filament/cotton composite yarns can improve the wrinkle resistance, drapability of the fabrics and the ironing-free level without affecting the wearing property of the fabric. Compared with the wrapped yarns, the core yarn fabric has higher wrinkle resistance and ironing-free level. The core yarn fabric is a good idea for ironing-free shirt fabrics.

Key words: polyester filament/cotton composite yarn, wrinkle recovery angle, ironing-free fabric, ironing-free level, drapability, shape retention, air permeability

CLC Number: 

  • TS101.923

Tab.1

PET fiber tensile properties"

长丝
编号		 线密度/
tex(6 f)		 断裂强度/
(cN·tex-1)		 断裂伸
长率/%		 初始模量/
(cN·tex-1)		 5%定伸长弹
性回复率/%
1# 0.88 33.3 15.50 421.5 82.50
2# 1.11 41.8 17.21 527.5 84.16

Tab.2

Yarn properties"

纱线
品种		 捻度/
(捻·(10 cm-1))		 强度/
(cN·tex-1)		 伸长
率/%		 初始
模量/
(cN·tex-1)		 条干不
匀率CV
值/%		 H
值		 -50%
细节/
(个·km-1)		 +50%
粗节/
(个·km-1)		 +200%
棉结/
(个·km-1)		 毛羽/(根·m-1)
<3 mm ≥3 mm
纯棉纱 137.17 21.75 5.64 289.50 12.38 2.64 0 25 40 66.51 1.81
包芯纱 137.70 21.25 5.94 318.90 11.83 2.52 0 20 20 42.26 1.43
双包芯纱 138.62 20.27 5.83 293.90 11.87 2.34 0 5 10 34.14 1.52
双包缠纱 138.87 23.50 6.63 283.10 11.29 1.91 0 5 10 15.13 0.43

Tab.3

Fabric weave structure"

织物
编号		 经、纬纱
线品种		 厚度/
mm		 面密度/
(g·m-2)		 密度/
(根·(10 cm)-1)
经密 纬密
A 纯棉纱 0.33 117 669 394
B 包芯纱 0.36 126 669 394
C 双包芯纱 0.36 122 669 394
D 双包缠纱 0.33 117 669 394

Tab.4

Fabric wrinkle resilience(°)"

织物
编号		 急弹性回复角 缓弹性回复角
经向 纬向 经+纬 经向 纬向 经+纬
A 73.12 88.57 161.69 92.63 105.03 197.66
B 94.35 100.56 194.91 113.35 116.77 230.12
C 84.95 97.99 182.94 99.52 112.41 211.93
D 63.65 73.80 137.45 81.98 90.47 172.45

Fig.1

Smoothness grade of fabrics. (a) A fabric(1 grade); (b) B fabric (3 grade);(c) C fabric (2.5 grade); (d) D fabric (2 grade)"

Tab.5

Fabric dimensional stability%"

织物
编号		 织缩率 缩水率
经向 纬向 经向 纬向
A 11.11 6.25 -3.46 -2.50
B 9.11 5.07 -1.33 -1.18
C 9.02 4.61 -2.61 -1.32
D 8.88 3.03 -5.36 -2.86

Tab.6

Drapability of fabric%"

织物编号 静态悬垂系数 动态悬垂系数
A 48.77 53.64
B 44.62 50.28
C 44.67 50.84
D 44.58 49.41

Fig.2

Static and dynamic drape effect of fabric. (a) A static; (b) A dynamic; (c) B static; (d) B dynamic; (e) C static; (f) C dynamic; (g) D static; (h) D dynamic"

Tab.7

Fabric tensile properties"

织物
编号		 断裂强力/N 断裂伸长率/%
经向 纬向 经向 纬向
A 742.46 424.51 23.54 8.89
B 665.59 421.82 25.84 11.03
C 548.78 418.82 26.14 14.07
D 774.39 482.21 25.91 10.78

Tab.8

Tensile resilience of fabrics at 5% fixed elongation%"

织物
编号		 经向 纬向
1次 5次 1次 5次
A 75.20 69.07 51.13 43.21
B 85.22 75.05 72.95 60.40
C 78.94 67.57 71.76 62.79
D 77.89 74.30 58.16 48.74

Tab.9

Fabric handle style"

织物编号 硬挺度 柔软度 光滑度 折皱回复率/%
A 26.05 75.63 76.73 45.98
B 23.73 77.69 77.94 63.27
C 22.69 77.99 77.34 62.39
D 23.30 77.46 76.56 53.13

Tab.10

Moisture and air permeability of fabrics"

织物编号 透湿量/(g·m-2·d-1) 透气率/(mm·s-1)
A 5 664.831 460.23
B 6 267.834 407.02
C 6 013.044 371.09
D 6 199.890 566.91
[1] 姚金龙, 顾义师. 纯棉织物的免烫整理工艺优化[J]. 印染, 2016,42(8):38-40.
YAO Jinlong, GU Yishi. Optimization of non-iron finishing of cotton fabric[J]. China Dyeing & Finishing, 2016,42(8):38-40.
[2] 颜东, 邓继勇, 汪南方, 等. 有机硅改性聚氨酯/丙烯酸酯共聚乳液对棉织物的抗皱整理[J]. 纺织学报, 2018,39(1):89-93, 110.
YAN Dong, DENG Jiyong, WANG Nanfang, et al. Anti-wrinkle finishing of organosilicone modified polyurethane/acrylate copolymer emulsion for cotton fabrics[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2018,39(1):89-93, 110.
[3] 杨书会, 王瑞. 纯棉织物折皱回复角与其组织结构参数的关系[J]. 纺织学报, 2017,38(4):46-49.
YANG Shuhui, WANG Rui. Relationship between pure cotton fabric's wrinkle recovery angle and its organizational structure parameters[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2017,38(4):46-49.
[4] 徐传奇, 朱聪聪, 杨竹丽. 新型羊毛精纺面料抗皱性能和力学性能研究[J]. 毛纺科技, 2019,47(1):30-34.
XU Chuanqi, ZHU Congcong, YANG Zhuli. Research on wrinkle recovery and mechanical properties of new worsted wool fabrics[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2019,47(1):30-34.
[5] 黄锦波, 周志芳, 朱锦华, 等. 纬纱和组织结构对交织面料折皱回复性能的影响[J]. 丝绸, 2014,51(4):6-9.
HUANG Jinbo, ZHOU Zhifang, ZHU Jinhua, et al. Influence of weft yarn and weave structure on wrinkle recovery property of interwoven fabrics[J]. Journal of Silk, 2014,51(4):6-9.
[6] 赵超, 刘新金, 王广斌. 基于KES与PhabrOmeter测试系统的棉织物保形性对比[J]. 丝绸, 2017,54(12):26-31.
ZHAO Chao, LIU Xinjin, WANG Guangbin. Comparative research of cotton fabrics shape preservation based on the KES and PhabrOmeter test systems[J]. Journal of Silk, 2017,54(12):26-31.
[7] FRIDRICHOVA Ludmila, ZELOVA Katarina. Objective evaluation of multidirectional fabric creasing[J]. The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2011,102(8):719-725.
[8] 蒋双歌, 王蕾, 王静, 等. 织物折皱回复的各向异性表征[J]. 纺织学报, 2016,37(6):42-47.
JIANG Shuangge, WANG Lei, WANG Jing, et al. Characterization on anisotropy of fabric wrinkle reco-very[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2016,37(6):42-47.
[9] 陈彩云. 仿丝绸处理对涤纶织物悬垂性的影响[J]. 丝绸, 2018,55(9):15-20.
CHEN Caiyun. Influence of silk-like finishing on polyester fabric drapability[J]. Journal of Silk, 2018,55(9):15-20.
[10] 潘志娟, 朱思敏, 欧佩玉, 等. PTT/绢丝混纺织物的风格及服用性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2014,35(8):163-168.
PAN Zhijuan, ZHU Simin, OU Peiyu, et al. Style and wearing properties of PTT/spun silk blended fabrics[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2014,35(8):163-168.
[1] HU Xiaorui, SUN Fengxin, XIAO Caiqin, GAO Weidong. Characterization of wrinkle recovery of fabrics based on in-situ mechanical testing [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(10): 41-45.
[2] SU Xuzhong, WEI Yanhong, LIU Xinjin, XIE Chunping. Effect of spinning method on wrinkle-resistance and tensile elasticity of fabric [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(04): 33-38.
[3] . Effect of structural parameters of kapok fiber/cotton blended fabric on heat retention and air permeability [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2018, 39(06): 47-51.
[4] . Preparation and performance of melamine fiber felt [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2017, 38(12): 65-68.
[5] . Relationship bepure cotton fabruc's wrinkle recovery angle and its organizatonal structure parameters [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2017, 38(04): 46-49.
[6] . Measurement for fabric wrinkle resistance by simulating actual wear [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2017, 38(03): 56-60.
[7] . Formaldehyde-free durable press finishing of cotton fabrics with polycarboxylic acid [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2017, 38(01): 94-99.
[8] . Preparation and properties of polylactic acid coated phase change material composite fabric [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2017, 38(01): 67-72.
[9] . Objective evaluation on wrinkling of garment joints based on wavelet analysis [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2016, 37(12): 87-91.
[10] . Relationship between structure parameters and wrinkle resistance of worsted fabric [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2016, 37(11): 37-41.
[11] . Influence of experimental parameters on test results of cotton fabric wrinkle recovery angle [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2015, 36(08): 33-37.
[12] . Dynamic measurement of fabric wrinkle recovery angle by video sequence [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2013, 34(2): 55-60.
[13] . Relationship between fabric’s wrinkle recovery angle [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2013, 34(10): 39-0.
[14] Xiao WANG. Mathematical mdel for relationship between graft ratio and variation of air permeability of linen fabric [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2013, 34(1): 90-95.
[15] LIU Cheng-Xia, XU Jing. Fabric multi-directional wrinkle resistance testing based on image processing [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2012, 33(7): 48-52.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited
  Shared   
  Discussed   
No Suggested Reading articles found!
京ICP备14006648号
Copyright 2021 © Editorial office of Journal of Textile Research
Supported by Beijing Magtech Co.Ltd