Journal of Textile Research ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (04): 33-38.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20190406306

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Effect of spinning method on wrinkle-resistance and tensile elasticity of fabric

SU Xuzhong1, WEI Yanhong1,2, LIU Xinjin1(), XIE Chunping1   

  1. 1. Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles (Jiangnan University), Ministry of Education, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
    2. Geron Card Clothing (Jiangsu) Co., Ltd., Nantong, Jiangsu 226143, China
  • Received:2019-04-23 Revised:2019-12-27 Online:2020-04-15 Published:2020-04-27
  • Contact: LIU Xinjin E-mail:liuxinjin2006@163.com

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Abstract:

In order to develop natural wrinkle-resistant fabrics, the effect of spinning methods on fabric tensile elasticity and wrinkle-resistance was investigated. In this research, five types of 14.8 tex yarns were prepared using polyester (PET) filament and pure cotton yarn through complete condensing spinning, complete condensing spinning core-spun, complete condensing Siro-spinning core-spun, complete condensing Siro-spinning double-core core-spun and plied yarns. Five types of fabrics of the same specification were woven from these 5 types of yarns. Performances of the five fabrics were evaluated and analyzed for shape retention and deformation resistance, such as wrinkle resistance, dimensional stability, rigid flexibility and tensile deformation. The results show that the greater elastic deformation ratio and initial modulus of the fiber, the better the elasticity of the fabric, and the better the wrinkle recovery of the fabric. When the yarn is less in hairiness, smooth and even in surface, and high in initial modulus, the fabric demonstrates higher wrinkle resistance. The complete condensing Siro-spinning core-spun yarn and plied yarns show good wrinkle resistance, dimensional stability and tensile elastic recovery and crisp, and the apparent flatness grade of fabrics both is 3.5. Compared with the plied yarn, the production process of complete condensing Siro-spinning core-spun is short and the cost is low, and therefore it is more suitable for the preparation of high shape retention care-free shirt fabrics.

Key words: shape retention, wrinkle resistance, wrinkle recovery angle, wrinkle recovery rate, initial modulus, complete condensing spinning, care-free shirt fabric

CLC Number: 

  • TS116

Tab.1

Properties of PET filament"

长丝
编号		 线密度/
tex		 喷丝孔
个数		 断裂伸长
率/%		 断裂强度/
(cN·tex-1)		 初始模量/
(cN·tex-1)		 急弹性变
形比例/%		 塑形变
形比例/%		 缓弹性变
形比例/%		 弹性回复
率/%
A 1.11 6 15.4 34.4 501.5 78.34 15.84 5.83 84.16
B 2.22 12 17.1 37.8 539.7 83.33 12.50 4.17 87.50

Tab.2

Yarn performances"

纱线
编号		 纱线
成分		 捻度/
(捻·(10 cm)-1)		 强度/
(cN·tex-1)		 初始模量/
(cN·tex-1)		 CV值/
%		 毛羽H
值		 -50%细节/
(个·km-1)		 +50%粗节/
(个·km-1)		 +200%棉结/
(个·km-1)		 ≥3 mm毛羽/
(根· m-1)
a JC(100) 106.64 22.0 373.4 13.17 3.24 0 50 20.0 6.18
b JC/PET
(89/11)		 107.24 21.3 380.0 12.30 3.07 0 35 17.5 3.79
c JC/PET
(89/11)		 108.28 22.4 391.1 9.97 2.70 0 5 7.5 1.50
d JC/PET
(89/11)		 108.93 22.6 376.1 10.03 2.70 0 0 7.5 1.17
e JC/PET
(89/11)		 107.89 23.4 340.5 9.14 2.67 0 5 10.0 1.00

Tab.3

Fabric weave structure"

织物
编号		 经纬纱
编号		 组织 厚度/
mm		 面密度/
(g·m-2)		 织物密度/
(根·(10 cm)-1)
经向 纬向
1# a 左斜 0.35 145 512 354
2# b 左斜 0.35 147 512 354
3# c 左斜 0.36 160 512 354
4# d 左斜 0.37 160 512 354
5# e 右斜 0.36 150 512 354

Tab.4

Wrinkle recovery angle of five fabrics(°)"

织物
编号		 急弹性折痕回复角 缓弹性折痕回复角
经向 纬向 经+纬 经向 纬向 经+纬
1# 84.02 97.83 181.85 100.90 113.51 214.41
2# 95.41 109.46 204.87 111.24 122.63 233.87
3# 106.66 103.53 210.19 120.09 118.12 238.21
4# 89.93 98.64 188.57 106.94 114.12 221.06
5# 92.37 110.78 203.15 108.46 123.83 232.29

Fig.1

Rapid(a) and slow(b) elastic recovery angle image of 2# fabric"

Fig.2

Dynamic wrinkle recovery angle of five fabrics"

Tab.5

CV values test results comparison of two instruments%"

织物
编号		 急弹性折皱回复角CV值 缓弹性折皱回复角CV值
YG(B)541E JN-1 YG(B)541E JN-1
经向 纬向 经向 纬向 经向 纬向 经向 纬向
1# 7.32 4.35 3.06 2.83 7.15 10.50 2.46 3.17
2# 8.05 8.88 1.52 3.32 7.65 8.41 1.66 2.97
3# 9.34 6.17 1.72 1.79 8.40 4.28 1.62 2.00
4# 13.62 8.11 3.28 2.63 13.83 8.07 2.80 2.14
5# 6.66 7.79 2.06 1.93 6.33 6.63 1.72 1.95

Tab.6

Style test result of five fabrics"

织物编号 折皱回复率/% 硬挺度 柔软度 光滑度
1# 55.14 22.50 76.73 79.42
2# 57.45 22.62 75.16 79.92
3# 62.34 23.89 75.04 82.06
4# 58.26 22.90 73.64 80.10
5# 62.18 23.42 75.12 79.60

Fig.3

Apparent flatness of five fabrics"

Tab.7

Dimensional stability to washing of five fabrics%"

织物编号 经向 纬向
1# -3.6 -2.3
2# -1.7 -0.8
3# -1.4 -0.6
4# -1.7 -0.7
5# -1.4 -0.6

Tab.8

5% fixed elongation tensile resilience rate of fabric%"

织物
编号		 经向 纬向
拉伸1次 拉伸5次 拉伸1次 拉伸5次
1# 81.93 73.56 71.69 62.42
2# 82.82 74.08 77.89 68.69
3# 85.37 78.94 81.18 71.54
4# 82.90 77.15 78.49 69.37
5# 84.85 78.11 82.38 73.08
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