Journal of Textile Research ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (06): 99-104.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20190604406

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Pattern design method of traditional cheongsam

LIU Yongmei1,2, HAN Tianqi1, ZHANG Xianghui1,2(), LÜ Fanglan1   

  1. 1. Fashion and Art Design Institute, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
  • Received:2019-06-18 Revised:2020-03-03 Online:2020-06-15 Published:2020-06-28
  • Contact: ZHANG Xianghui E-mail:zhangxianghui@dhu.edu.cn

RichHTML

8

PDF (PC)

340

Abstract:

In order to solve the problems that the existing pattern design methods of traditional cheongsam were difficult to understand and deduce due to parameter mixing and subjective judgment, a pattern design method for traditional cheongsam was proposed in this paper. Better understanding on connotation and characteristics of the style were established through field visits to museums and interviews with experts. The typical traditional cheongsam style samples were selected, and the characteristics of waist and shoulder line of sleeves were classified and analyzed with overlay analysis to summarize two types of typical styles. The structure design were studied for these two typical styles, and the pattern design method for the traditional cheongsam was proposed based on the Donghua clothing structure design theory. Six subjects with different shapes were selected for the pattern experiment, including the static wearing experiment and the action activity experiment. The sample garment made by this method achieves better wearing effect in both states, which verifies the feasibility and deducibility of this method.

Key words: cheongsam style, pattern design of cheongsam, cheongsam without darts, prototype design, wearing experiment

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.7

Fig.1

Style outline curve. (a) Class A cheongsam style overlay; (b) Class B cheongsam style overlay"

Fig.2

Typical cheongsam style illustration. (a) Class A; (b) Class B"

Fig.3

Body designing. (a) Length designing; (b) Circumference designing"

Fig.4

Sleeve designing. (a) Cuff designing; (b) Sleeve designing"

Fig.5

Collar designing. (a) Neckline designing;(b) Collar designing"

Fig.6

Sleeve designing. (a) Basic sleeve designing;(b) Basic sleeve fit body desigining"

Fig.7

Sample results of white fabric(a), acetic acid fabrics (b), and satin fabrics (c)"

Tab.1

Subjects' main measurement data"

受试者
编号		 身高/
cm		 胸围/
cm		 腰围/
cm		 腹围/
cm		 臀围/
cm		 肩宽/
cm		 体重/
kg
1 162 74.0 60.5 73 86 38.0 43.5
2 163 79.5 61.0 70 84 38.0 44.0
3 162 81.5 61.0 68 92 39.0 47.0
4 164 88.0 64.0 78 94 38.5 53.0
5 162 90.0 65.5 78 91 38.5 51.0
6 165 90.0 66.0 74 92 39.5 55.0

Tab.2

Subjects' body type classification"

编号 1 2 3 4 5 6
体型 1 I A X O V

Fig.8

Subject 3 static wearing effect. (a) Try-on effect of style A; (b) Try-on effect of style B"

Fig.9

Action activity effect. (a) Upper body joints and girth action; (b) Lower body joints and girth related action"

[1] 李川. 民国旗袍的样式变革[J]. 戏剧之家, 2018(25):131-132.
LI Chuan. The style change of cheongsam in the Republic of China[J]. Home Drama, 2018(25):131-132.
[2] 俞跃. 民国时期传统旗袍造型结构研究[D]. 北京:北京服装学院, 2014: 17-33.
YU Yue. Study on traditional Chinese cheongsam style and structure in Republic of China[D]. Beijing: Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, 2014: 17-33.
[3] 王翮, 任汩. 近现代旗袍的造型变革以及舒适性研究[J]. 纺织导报, 2014(6):144-146.
WANG He, REN Gu. Evolution of silhouette design of Qipao in modern and contemporary times and related comfort property[J]. China Textile Leader, 2014(6):144-146.
[4] 杨雪. 民国旗袍工艺之美的研究[D]. 北京:北京服装学院, 2017: 19-20.
YANG Xue. Study on the technological beauty of model of Qipao of the Republic of China: the revolution from no dart to dart[D]. Beijing: Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, 2017: 19-20.
[5] 陈研, 张竞琼, 李向军. 近代旗袍的造型变革以及裁剪技术[J]. 纺织学报, 2012,33(9):110-115.
CHEN Yan, ZHANG Jingqiong, LI Xiangjun. Molding development of Chinese dress and its cutting tech-nology[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2012,33(9):110-115.
[6] 刘思源. 论月份牌广告画对民国旗袍流行的影响[D]. 北京:北京服装学院, 2013: 1-2.
LIU Siyuan. The calendar advertisement paintings implications on chi-pao popular during the republican period[D]. Beijing: Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, 2013: 1-2.
[7] 孙茜. 关于旗袍领口结构设计的思考[J]. 西部皮革, 2016,38(20):70-71.
SUN Qian. Thoughts on the structural design of Qipao neckline[J]. West Leather, 2016,38(20):70-71.
[8] 刘咏梅. 服装结构平面解析[M]. 上海: 东华大学出版社, 2010: 214.
LIU Yongmei. Elaboration of garment pattern design[M]. Shanghai: Donghua University Press, 2010: 214.
[9] 刘建萍, 张毅, 荆妙蕾. 无省合体旗袍塑型方法的探索与分析[J]. 天津工业大学学报, 2004(2):28-31.
LIU Jianping, ZHANG Yi, JING Miaolei. Search on modeling method of right size Qipao without dart[J]. Journal of Tiangong University, 2004(2):28-31.
[10] 陈礼玲. 旗袍结构设计和工艺演变研究[D]. 无锡:江南大学, 2010: 32-33.
CHEN Liling. Study on the evolution of Qipao structure design and technics[D]. Wuxi: Jiangnan University, 2010: 32-33.
[11] 丁中娟, 杜劲松. 女性体型分类研究概述[J]. 国际纺织导报, 2016,44(12):57-61.
DING Zhongjuan, DU Jinsong. Review of female somatotype research[D]. Melliand China, 2016,44(12):57-61.
[1] Di WANG. Prototype design method of weft kintting seamless underwear [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2013, 34(5): 95-99.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited
  Shared   
  Discussed   
No Suggested Reading articles found!
京ICP备14006648号
Copyright 2021 © Editorial office of Journal of Textile Research
Supported by Beijing Magtech Co.Ltd