Journal of Textile Research ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (04): 135-141.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20190604507

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Effect of fabrics and moving speed on bustline, waistline and hipline shapes of one-piece dresses

CHEN Lili1(), LIU Chengxia2   

  1. 1. Yuanpei College, Shaoxing University, Shaoxing, Zhejiang 312000, China
    2. School of Fashion Design & Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
  • Received:2019-06-19 Revised:2020-01-15 Online:2020-04-15 Published:2020-04-27

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Abstract:

In order to investigate the effect of fabrics and moving speed on garment silhouette, 3 subjects with similar figures and 5 commonly used fabrics were selected for the study of one-piece dresses according to the subjects' body dimensions. A three-dimensional motion capture instrument was employed to obtain the coordinate points of the bustline, waistline and hipline when the 3 subjects were wearing the dresses at the different moving speed. By using a curve fitting method, the curves of the bustline, waistline and hipline were acquired and the curve area, curve circumference, transverse and longitudinal distances were obtained as the objective parameters of the dress silhouette. Results show that both fabrics and moving speed have significant influence on the 4 parameters of the dress, of which the effect on the parameters of wastline is the highest, with the hipline the middle and the bustline the lowest. Fabrics made of deformable yarns tend to have smaller bustline, and larger waistline and hipline. Besides, their bustline, waistline and hipline shapes are not easily influenced by moving speed.

Key words: fabric, moving speed, garment silhouette,shape of bustline, waistline and hipline, motion capture, one-piece dress

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.2

Tab.1

Fabric specification parameters"

面料编号 纱线形态 组织 成分 密度/(根·(10 cm)-1) 面密度/
(g·m-2)		 厚度/
mm
经向 纬向
1# 短纤维 平纹 粘胶 150 108 106.5 0.25
2# 长丝 平纹 蚕丝 329 272 54.6 0.10
3# 长丝 平纹 涤纶/氨纶(97/3) 846 511 130.9 0.39
4# 短纤维 平纹 亚麻 173 171 143.4 0.46
5# 短纤维 平纹 棉 345 331 110.3 0.39

Tab.2

Mechanical property parameters of fabrics"

面料
编号		 弯曲刚度B/
(cN·cm-1)		 表面粗
糙度/
μm		 剪切
刚度/
(cN·cm-1)		 拉伸
比功/
(cN·cm-1)		 悬垂
系数/
%
1# 0.148 4 1.836 0.98 8.45 22.8
2# 0.003 9 1.133 0.23 15.96 38.6
3# 0.007 8 1.345 0.67 11.59 51.3
4# 0.398 7 3.754 3.69 14.82 89.4
5# 0.139 8 2.246 2.87 12.78 53.7

Fig.1

One-piece dress used for experiment. (a) Working sketch; (b) Photo of dress"

Fig.2

Acquisition of silhouette data of dress. (a) Static; (b) Running"

Tab.3

Significance of fabrics to curve parameters of bustline and waistline and hipline"

部位 参数 平方和 自由度 均方 统计量 显著性
S 2 174.897 4 543.724 2 132.937 0.000
胸围 L 80.876 4 5.219 31.751 0.001
A 3.769 4 0.942 10.25 0.013
B 3.774 4 0.943 19.144 0.003
S 455 599.899 4 113 899.975 580 139.723 0.000
腰围 L 905.540 4 226.385 1 823.570 0.000
A 47.572 4 11.893 86.801 0.000
B 113.396 4 28.349 144.011 0.000
S 2 186.703 4 546.676 193.822 0.000
臀围 L 85.016 4 21.254 190.079 0.000
A 27.089 4 6.772 46.604 0.000
B 80.170 4 20.042 61.129 0.000

Fig.3

CV values for parameters of bustline and waistline and hipline"

Fig.4

Fitting result of curve for bustline"

Tab.4

Parameters of bustline"

面料
编号		 曲线面积/
像素2		 曲线周长/
像素		 横向距离/
像素		 纵向距离/
像素
1# 1 869.104 154.592 2 48.928 5 44.249 6
2# 1 873.343 154.885 0 49.979 9 45.137 3
3# 1 876.232 154.954 1 50.128 5 45.279 7
4# 1 855.192 154.332 1 48.213 7 44.617 5
5# 1 854.733 154.333 8 48.630 5 44.523 9

Fig.5

Fitting results of curve for waistline"

Tab.5

Parameters of waistline"

面料
编号		 曲线面积/
像素2		 曲线周
长/像素		 横向距离/
像素		 纵向距离/
像素
1# 1 603.691 143.933 9 46.627 5 41.011 8
2# 1 371.517 133.103 5 44.459 4 37.581 4
3# 1 356.003 131.528 3 45.206 0 37.469 4
4# 1 817.685 152.802 4 49.625 8 44.644 3
5# 1 862.264 154.585 5 49.889 3 45.237 8

Fig.6

Fitting results of curve for hipline"

Tab.6

Parameters of hipline"

面料
编号		 曲线面积/
像素2		 曲线周长/
像素		 横向距离/
像素		 纵向距离/
像素
1# 2 284.851 171.615 8 60.959 6 51.278 0
2# 2 253.999 170.972 6 58.653 3 48.122 1
3# 2 332.464 174.669 8 63.038 3 48.713 2
4# 2 453.512 179.498 1 62.492 4 55.341 1
5# 2 392.234 176.219 7 62.114 3 54.033 8

Tab.7

Significance of moving speed to curve parameters of bustline and waistline and hipline for different fabrics"

面料
编号		 部位 平方和 自由
度		 均方 统计量 显著
性
胸围 821.245 2 410.622 1 305.296 0.000
1# 腰围 78 046.092 2 39 023.046 12 147.118 0.000
臀围 6 589.023 2 3 294.511 705.805 0.000
胸围 303.173 2 151.586 810.775 0.000
2# 腰围 277 688.032 2 138 844.16 25 870.539 0.000
臀围 1551.789 2 775.894 120.143 0.001
胸围 2 154.738 2 1 077.369 4 475.152 0.000
3# 腰围 328 574.780 2 164 287.390 39 854.916 0.000
臀围 24 231.691 2 12 115.846 1 361.046 0.000
胸围 1 552.969 2 776.485 2 907.854 0.000
4# 腰围 653.771 2 326.886 844.799 0.000
臀围 1 905.207 2 952.603 347.627 0.000
胸围 2 742.222 2 1 371.277 9 257.502 0.000
5# 腰围 813.577 2 406.788 135.026 0.001
臀围 5 546.010 2 2 773.005 1 068.075 0.000

Fig.7

Area CV values of bustline and waistline and hipline for different fabrics at different moving speed"

Fig.8

Area of waistline at different moving speed"

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