Journal of Textile Research ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (07): 135-140.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20191102206

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Construction of parametric structure model for bias-cut skirt pattern

CHEN Mi, YE Qinwen, ZHANG Gaopeng()   

  1. College of Biomass Science and Engineering, Sichuan University, Chengdu, Sichuan 610065, China
  • Received:2019-11-07 Revised:2020-04-14 Online:2020-07-15 Published:2020-07-23
  • Contact: ZHANG Gaopeng E-mail:zgp@scu.edu.cn

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Abstract:

In order to solve the problems of low efficiency related to manual operation of bias-cut skirt pattern, a parametric structure model for bias-cut skirt prototype was proposed to enable the creation of personalized bias-cut skirt patterns quickly and easily, leading to quick generation of paper samples. Firstly, the principle of bias cutting for the bias-cut skirt was analyzed. With the parameterization function of AutoCAD software, the prototype of the parametric structure model of bias-cut skirt was constructed. By adjusting the parameters, the personalized bias-cut skirt pattern was generated. The research shows that the parametric structure model for the bias-cut skirt prototype does not need grading, and personalized bias-cut skirt patterns are able to be generated by only adjusting the key sizes and the pattern bias angle. Also, the number of bias pieces of the prototype can be selected arbitrarily for adjustment. Combined with the use of CLO3D, parametric structure model of bias-cut skirt can be used for virtual fitting, allowing the creation of effect map and pressure map of the clothing to be generated. It is found that such established parametric structure model for bias-cut skirt has good application value and can lead to the improvement of production efficiency.

Key words: bias-cut, skirt, apparel CAD, apparel paper pattern, parametric design, virtual fitting

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.2

Fig.1

Frame of bias-cut skirt"

Fig.2

Sketch of bias-cut skirt"

Fig.3

Parametric schematic of skirt parametric structure mode. (a) Parametric sketch; (b) Parametric sketch of geometric constraint;(c) Parametric sketch of annotation constraint"

Tab.1

Dimensional constraints of parametric bias-cut skirt prototype"

符号 含义 表达式 参考值 类型 单位
S1S2 臀长 T 180 竖直 mm
S1S3 裙长 L 570 竖直 mm
S1S5 直裁臀围 H/n 225 水平 mm
S4S6 斜裁腰围 W/n 170 对齐 mm
S7S8 斜裁臀围 H/n 225 水平 mm
∠S1S9S3 斜裁角度 α 45 角度 (°)

Fig.4

Comparison sketch of specification size adjustment"

Tab.2

Specification size adjustment data mm"

样板 W H L T
原始版 680 900 570 180
修改1 640 860 540 170
修改2 720 940 600 190

Fig.5

Comparison sketch of bias-cut angle adjustment"

Fig.6

Comparison sketch of bias-cut number adjustment"

Fig.7

Sketch of virtual fitting effect. (a) Change in size;(b) Change in angle;(c) Change in number of pieces"

Tab.3

Virtual fitting effect description"

方案 整体款式风格 正视图 后视图
方
案
1		 修改1 款式合体,符合着装要求,外观效果较好 平整,中部
有凹陷		 平整,无褶皱
原始版 款式合体,符合着装要求,外观效果较好 平整,中部
稍有凹陷		 平整,无褶皱
修改2 款式合体,符合着装要求,外观效果较好 平整,中部
有凹陷		 平整,无褶皱
方
案
2		 角度50° 款式合体,符合着装要求,外观效果较好 平整,中部
有凹陷		 平整,无褶皱
角度55° 款式合体,符合着装要求,外观效果较好 平整,中部
稍有凹陷		 平整,无褶皱
片数6 款式合体,符合着装要求,外观效果较好 正、背面平整 平整,无褶皱
片数8 款式合体,符合着装要求,外观效果较好 平整,中部
有凹陷		 平整,无褶皱

Fig.8

Sketch of parametric bias dress virtual fitting pressure. (a) Pressure sketch of specification size;(b) Pressure sketch of bias-cut skirt angle;(c) Pressure sketch of bias cut skirt pieces"

Tab.4

Parametric bias dress pressure parameter"

方案 腰围压力范围/kPa 臀围压力范围/kPa
规格 155/64A 0.80~2.46 1.13~2.47
160/68A 0.86~2.87 1.18~2.31
165/72A 0.66~2.13 1.09~2.50
角度 50° 0.70~2.51 1.09~2.20
55° 0.63~2.66 1.32~2.52
裁片 6片 0.64~2.97 1.06~2.03
8片 0.70~1.81 1.05~1.93
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