Journal of Textile Research ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (08): 101-107.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20191104407

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Perceptual research on printing pattern design for clothing

ZHENG Tianzi1,2, WANG Jianping1,2,3()   

  1. 1. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    3. Shanghai International Institute of Design & Innovation, Tongji University, Shanghai 200092, China
  • Received:2019-11-20 Revised:2020-04-28 Online:2020-08-15 Published:2020-08-21
  • Contact: WANG Jianping E-mail:wangjp@dhu.edu.cn

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Abstract:

In order to help enterprises better grasp consumers' perceptual demand for clothing printing patterns, then carry out more accurate product development and recommendation, this study took men's shirts of enterprise G, which is their main products, as the research object. Firstly, the hierarchical structure representation was used to decompose the three elements and 23 important sub-classes of pattern design. Then, the method of questionnaire and cluster analysis was used to establish the perceptual image space of men's shirts, and the evaluation of the relevance between the design elements and the perceptual image of men's shirts was obtains by expert interviews. Finally, the investigation results were analyzed through the analytic hierarchy process. The study obtains the comprehensive weight values of the three major elements. The evaluation matrix is established according to the weight values and then the style attribution of men's shirts identified with different pattern designs. On the one hand, the findings can help designers to design patterns according to the target image, and on the other hand, it can help enterprises to recommend products that meet the consumers' perceptual needs. This research method has the possibility to be extended to other clothing categories.

Key words: pattern research, perceptual image, men's shirt, analytic hierarchy process, style evaluation, colthing printing pattern

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.11

Fig.1

Basic men's shirt"

Fig.2

Quadrilateral continuity pattern"

Fig.3

Hierarchical structure of patterns design of printed clothing"

Tab.1

Mean random consistency index"

n 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
RI 0 0 0.52 0.89 1.12 1.24 1.36 1.41 1.46 1.49

Tab.2

Kansei word-pairs and its definition"

感性意象词汇对 定义角度
复古的-前卫的 流行时间
低调的-张扬的 着装个性
都市的-田园的 地域风格

Tab.3

Triangle fuzzy number of five level semantics"

语意量尺 三角模
糊数
非常不重要的 非常复古的 非常低调的 非常都市的 (1,1,3)
比较不重要的 比较复古的 比较低调的 比较都市的 (1,3,5)
一般 一般 一般 一般 (3,5,7)
比较重要的 比较前卫的 比较张扬的 比较田园的 (5,7,9)
非常重要的 非常前卫的 非常张扬的 非常田园的 (7,9,9)

Tab.4

Mapping relationship between perceptual image and subclass of design element"

要素子类 复古的-前卫的 低调的-张扬的 都市的-田园的
波点 (2.2,4,6)/0.383 (3.4,5.4,7.4)/0.55 (3.2,5.2,7.2)/0.525
条纹 (2.6,4.6,6.6)/0.45 (1.6,3.6,5.6)/0.325 (1.8,3.8,5.8)/0.35
格子 (1.8,3.6,5.6)/0.333 (1.2,3,5)/0.258 (3.6,5.6,7.6)/0.575
块面 (5.2,7.2,8.8)/0.758 (5,7,8.6)/0.733 (1,2.4,4.4)/0.201
语言文字 (3.8,5.8,7.8)/0.6 (5,7,8.6)/0.733 (1.8,3.6,5.6)/0.333
传统纹样 (1.2,2,4)/0.18 (3.8,5.8,7.6)/0.592 (4,6,7.8)/0.617
花卉 (2.4,4.4,6.4)/0.425 (3.4,5.4,7.4)/0.55 (5.4,7.4,8.6)/0.765
草木 (2.8,4.8,6.8)/0.475 (3.4,5.4,7.4)/0.55 (5.4,7.4,8.6)/0.765
真实肖像 (4.8,6.8,8.6)/0.717 (4.6,6.6,8.6)/0.7 (1,3,5)/0.25
变形塑造形象 (5.8,7.8,8.6)/0.795 (5.2,7.2,8.6)/0.749 (1,2,4)/0.169
飞禽走兽(凶猛型) (4.2,6.2,7.8)/0.633 (5.2,7.2,8.4)/0.74 (3.6,5.6,7.6)/0.575
宠物(温和型) (3.4,5.4,7.4)/0.55 (3.6,5.6,7.6)/0.575 (4.4,6.4,8.2)/0.667
虫鸟(小型) (3.8,5.8,7.6)/0.592 (3.8,5.8,7.8)/0.6 (5.2,7.2,8.4)/0.74
自然风光 (3.2,5.2,7.2)/0.525 (3.4,5.4,7.4)/0.55 (5.4,7.4,8.6)/0.765
人文景象 (2.4,4.4,6.4)/0.425 (3.6,5.6,7.6)/0.575 (4,6,7.8)/0.617
实物景象 (4.2,6.2,8)/0.642 (3.6,5.6,7.6)/0.575 (2.8,4.8,6.8)/0.475
无序综合 (5.2,7.2,8.4)/0.74 (5.2,7.2,8.6)/0.749 (1.4,2.6,4.6)/0.235
单元图案大 (4.2,6.2,8.2)/0.65 (5.4,7.4,9)/0.783 (1.8,3.6,5.6)/0.333
单元图案大小适中 (3,5,7)/0.5 (2.6,4.6,6.6)/0.45 (3,5,7)/0.5
单元图案小 (2.4,4.4,6.4)/0.425 (1.4,3.2,5.2)/0.283 (4.2,6.2,8.2)/0.65
单元图案疏 (2.6,4.6,6.6)/0.45 (2.6,4.6,6.6)/0.45 (2.4,4.4,6.4)/0.425
单元图案密度适中 (3.2,5.2,7.2)/0.525 (2.8,4.8,6.8)/0.475 (3.2,5.2,7.2)/0.525
单元图案密 (3,5,7)/0.5 (3,5,7)/0.5 (4,6,8)/0.625

Tab.5

Closeness of sample to semantic scale of "retro-avant-garde""

图案设
计要素		 非常复
古的		 比较复
古的		 一般 比较前
卫的		 非常前
卫的
虫鸟 0.169 0.422 0.845 0.789 0.658
单元图案小 0.235 0.588 0.850 0.567 0.472
单元图案密 0.200 0.500 1.000 0.667 0.556

Fig.4

Sample case"

Tab.6

Mapping relationship between perceptual image and three design element"

三大要素 复古的-前卫的 低调的-张扬的 都市的-田园的
图案题材内容 (6,8,9)/0.831 (5,7,8.4)/0.724 (5.8,7.8,9)/0.815
单元图案大小 (3.6,5.6,7.6)/0.575 (5,7,8.6)/0.733 (4.2,6.2,8)/0.642
单元图案疏密 (3.6,5.6,7.6)/0.575 (4.6,6.6,8.6)/0.7 (5,7,8.6)/0.733
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