Journal of Textile Research ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (09): 67-75.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20191200409

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Characteristics and evolution of backed weave structure of brocade in ancient China

PENG Xi, ZHOU Jiu()   

  1. Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
  • Received:2019-12-02 Revised:2020-05-26 Online:2020-09-15 Published:2020-09-25
  • Contact: ZHOU Jiu E-mail:zhoujiu34@126.com

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Abstract:

In order to build the weave structure system of the ancient China backed weave structure brocade and provide a reference for the innovation of modern brocade, the historical evolution of the backed weave structure brocade used in ancient China was studied according to historical documents. On this basis, the brocade was divided into four major types, i.e. dark-clip-type, no-knot-type, special-knot-type and ground-knot-type according to the connection characteristics of brocade weave structure. Meanwhile, the characteristics of the structure, pattern display and internal relationships of these four types of brocade were analyzed. It is found that the structural evolution generally shows that the ground weave is from non-existence to existence, the characteristics of connection is from no-yarn to dedicated yarn and then to ground-yarn, the way of pattern display is from warp to weft and then to warp and weft, and the float length is from short to long. The essence of the evolution has been to improve the performance and appearance of the backed weave structure brocade through optimizing the structure constantly, towards creating representative silk varieties in various historical periods.

Key words: silk, brocade, backed weave, jacquard fabric, weaving structure

CLC Number: 

  • TS145.3

Fig.1

Pedigree diagram of backed weave structure brocade in ancient China"

Fig.2

Weave structure system of the backed weave structure brocade in ancient China"

Fig.3

Profile characteristics of weave structure of dark-clip-type backed weave structure brocade. (a) Plain weave warp brocade; (b) Twill weave warp brocade; (c) Plain weave weft brocade; (d) Twill weave weft brocade; (e) Satin weave weft brocade; (f) Not-full-revealed-warp-type twill weave weft brocade; (g) Not-full-revealed-warp-type satin weave weft brocade"

Fig.4

Zonal profile characteristics of the weave structure of no-knot-type backed weave structure brocade. (a) Ground weave; (b) Pattern weave"

Tab.1

Comparison of the weave structure of three kinds of no-knot-type backed weave structure brocade"

品种类型 显花区 地经/地纬 地经/纹纬
平纹地 地纬显花 平纹 全经点
纹纬显花 平纹 全纬点
斜纹地 地纬显花 斜纹 全经点
纹纬显花 斜纹 全纬点
缎纹地 地纬显花 缎纹 全经点
纹纬显花 缎纹 全纬点

Fig.5

Zonal profile characteristics of weave structure of special-knot-type backed weave structure brocade. (a) Ground weave (ground wefts show patterns); (b) Pattern weave (ground wefts show patterns);(c) Pattern weave (non-ground wefts show patterns)"

Tab.2

Comparison of weave structure of three kinds of special-knot-type backed weave structure brocade"

品种类型 显花区 地经/地纬 地经/显花纬 地经/非显花纬 结经/地纬 结经/显花纬 结经/非显花纬
平纹型 地纬显花 平纹/斜纹/缎纹 全经点 全经点 平纹/变化平纹 平纹/变化平纹 平纹/变化平纹
纹纬显花 平纹/斜纹/缎纹 全纬点 全经点 平纹/变化平纹 平纹/变化平纹 平纹/变化平纹
斜纹型 地纬显花 平纹/斜纹/缎纹 全经点 全经点 斜纹 斜纹 斜纹
纹纬显花 平纹/斜纹/缎纹 全纬点 全经点 斜纹 斜纹 斜纹
缎纹型 地纬显花 平纹/斜纹/缎纹 全经点 全经点 缎纹 缎纹 缎纹
纹纬显花 平纹/斜纹/缎纹 全纬点 全经点 缎纹 缎纹 缎纹

Fig.6

Zonal profile characteristics of weave structure of ground-knot-type backed weave structure brocade. (a)When only ground wefts and pattern wefts that are used to show pattern participate in interweaving; (b) When a part of pattern wefts that are not used to show pattern participates in interlacing; (c) When all pattern wefts that are not used to show pattern participate in interlacing"

Tab.3

Comparison of weave structure of three kinds of ground-knot-type backed weave structure brocade"

品种类型 显花区 地经/地纬 地经/显花纹纬
平纹型 地纬显花 平纹/斜纹/缎纹 全经点
纹纬显花 平纹/斜纹/缎纹 隔多经平纹
斜纹型 地纬显花 平纹/斜纹/缎纹 全经点
纹纬显花 平纹/斜纹/缎纹 隔1经斜纹
缎纹型 地纬显花 平纹/斜纹/缎纹 全经点
纹纬显花 平纹/斜纹/缎纹 隔1经缎纹

Tab.4

Evolutionary regularities of backed weave structure of ancient brocade"

序号 织锦品名 经纱系统数 纬纱系统数 组织 结纬或结经 接结组织 地组织 经轴 显花特点 显花方式 织物浮长 织物色彩 织物结构
稳定性		 织物表面
效果		 工艺复杂度
1 暗夹型
经重结
构织锦		 2或
2以上		 1 平纹/
斜纹		 无结纬 有 无 单 经
显花		 纱线
显花		 短 少 不稳定 粗糙 简单
2 暗夹型
纬重结
构织锦		 2 2或2
以上		 平纹/
斜纹/
菱形斜纹/
缎纹		 有结经 有 无 双 纬
显花		 纱线
显花		 短 少 不稳定 太平整 简单
3 无结型
重结构
织锦		 1 2 平纹/
斜纹/
缎纹		 无结经 无 无 单 经纬
同时
显花		 组织
显花		 长 较多 不稳定 粗糙,
有肌理		 简单
4 特结型
重结构
织锦		 2 2或
2以上		 平纹/
斜纹/缎纹,
斜纹为主		 有结经 有 有 双 经纬
同时
显花		 组织
显花		 次长 多 稳定 细腻,
有肌理		 复杂
5 地结型
重结构
织锦		 1 2或
2以上		 平纹/
斜纹/
缎纹/
加强缎纹,
缎纹为主		 无结经 无 有 单 经纬
同时
显花		 组织
显花		 最长 更多 稳定 细腻,
肌理
丰富		 复杂
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