Journal of Textile Research ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (11): 53-58.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20191200606

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Study on stiffness style of knitted suit fabrics

LI Xintong, GAO Zhe, GU Hongyang, CONG Honglian()   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University,Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2019-12-02 Revised:2020-08-07 Online:2020-11-15 Published:2020-11-26
  • Contact: CONG Honglian E-mail:cong-wkrc@163.com

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Abstract:

In order to discuss the requirements and standards for the development and application of knitted fabrics for suits, this study quantified the stiffness style of knitted fabrics in three aspects, i.e. bending length, wrinkle recovery and drape. With the help of experimental instruments and data processing, three performance indicators, bending stiffness, wrinkle recovery angle and static drape coefficient, were obtained. The woven suit fabric was used as a benchmark to study and analyze the stiffness style of knitted fabrics. The results show that knitted fabrics using the six-way-change Roman knit structure is more suitable for suits, and the structural stability of the six-way-change Roman knit structure is better than that of the twelve-way small jacquard structure and the variable interval structure, which reduces the difference between the course and wale flexural stiffness. The fabric thickness of the six-way-change Roman knit structure is 0.1 mm thicker, and the degree of crease recovery is 10% higher. When the fabric density is set to 110-130 loops/(5 cm), the degree of drape reaches more than 60% of that for the woven suit fabric. It is shown that the six-way-change Roman structure combined with high fabric density makes the stiffness style of knitted fabric reach 80% of that of the woven suit fabric.

Key words: knitted fabric, bending stiffness, wrinkle recovery angle, drape coefficient, stiffness style

CLC Number: 

  • TS186.2

Tab.1

Parameters of fabric samples"

分类 含量/% 织物
编号		 经纬密/
(根·(5 cm)-1)		 横纵密/
(线圈·(5 cm) -1)		 面密度/
(g·m-2)		 厚度/
mm		 类别
经向 纬向 横密 纵密
毛型
面料		 20(羊毛) 1 200 190 — — 198 0.39 机织
2 — — 130 130 209 0.63 针织6路变化罗马组织
3 — — 125 130 199 0.52 针织6路变化罗马组织
4 — — 105 100 200 0.53 针织12路小提花组织
20~40(羊毛) 5 210 175 — — 180 0.41 机织
6 — — 80 40 180 0.69 针织12路小提花组织
7 — — 120 80 195 0.92 针织6路变化间隔组织
40~60(羊毛) 8 240 165 — — 198 0.40 机织
9 — — 120 80 182 0.65 针织6路变化间隔组织
10 — — 115 75 177 0.65 针织8路变化间隔组织
棉型
面料		 60(棉) 11 250 245 — — 199 0.34 机织
12 — — 120 150 195 0.72 针织6路变化罗马组织
13 — — 115 160 185 0.63 针织2路棉毛组织
14 — — 80 100 175 0.62 针织6路双面珠地
15 — — 75 80 210 0.64 针织8路蜂巢组织

Fig.1

Principle of fabric bending test"

Fig.2

Histogram of fabric bending stiffness. (a) Bending stiffness of wool fabrics; (b) Bending stiffness of cotton fabrics; (c) Difference between weft bending stiffness and warp bending stiffness"

Fig.3

Proportion of fabric drape"

Fig.4

Comprehensive evaluation of knitted fabrics. (a) Wool knitted fabrics;(b) Cotton knitted fabrics"

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