Journal of Textile Research ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (01): 78-83.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200203706

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Freehand machine embroidery product development based on random stitching styles

WEN Run1,2, ZHANG Xiaohe1, ZHOU Sijia1, MA Yanxue1,2()   

  1. 1. College of Textiles, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Textile Science & Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
  • Received:2020-02-18 Revised:2020-10-09 Online:2021-01-15 Published:2021-01-21
  • Contact: MA Yanxue E-mail:yxma@dhu.edu.cn

Abstract:

In order to overcome the monotone and rigidity in machine embroidery products due to machine limitations, a machine embroidery technique, which can express freehand brushwork effect, was developed, and inspired by random needle embroidery and the dot color painting principle. Through the design of base unit needle, this paper explores the synergistic effect of the size and number of base unit needle and stitch spacing on pattern shaping. Layered combination through layering color separation, gray-scale processing, stitch arrangement, combination and superposition, and color yarn embroidery was carried out to facilitate products with the freehand effect of random needlework styles. It was found that the 2∶1 ratio of base unit needle side length to stitch spacing leads to the optical results, and that a lower ratio is associated to a clearer the pattern outline, whereas a higher ratio relates to virtual transition between different contours. High density of base unit needle stitches per unit area leads to low lightness of the pattern, and when the base unit needle size and quantity are fixed, the stitch spacing from small to large controls the natural gradual change of pattern from deep to shallow. 60 groups of sample stitch gray values preliminarily established the freehand machine embroidery needle method parameter library, which was shown to be sufficient to demonstrate the effective correspondence between the gray level of each layer and the parameters of base needle, creating a layered combination design that gives the pattern a sense of hierarchy and three-dimensional effect.

Key words: freehand machine embroidery, random stitch embroidery, base unit needle, stitch spacing, layered combination

CLC Number: 

  • TS935.2

Fig.1

Model of freehand machine embroidery process design"

Fig.2

Base unit needle of equilateral triangle"

Tab.1

Experiment on size of base unit needle"

实验组
编号
基点针大
小(边长)/mm
基点针针迹
间距/mm
1 5 0.2 0.5 0.8 1.1
1.4 1.7 2.0 2.3
2.6 2.9 3.2 3.5
3.8 4.1 4.4 4.7
5.0 5.3 5.6 5.9
2 10
3 20

Fig.3

Proof drawings of experiment on size of base unit needle. (a) Experimental group 1;(b) Experimental group 2; (c) Experimental group 3"

Tab.2

Experiment on relationship between size of base unit needle and stitch spacing"

实验组
编号
基点针大小
(边长)/mm
基点针针迹
间距/mm
4 3 1.3 1.7 2.1 2.5 2.9
5 7

Fig.4

Proof drawings of relationship between size of base unit needle and stitch spacing. (a) Experimental group 4; (b) Experimental group 5"

Tab.3

Experiment on relationship between size and quantity of base unit needle"

实验组
编号
基点针大小
(边长)/mm
基点针覆
盖面积
基点针
数量/个
基点针针迹
间距/mm
6 5 S/2 115 2.9
7 10 S/2 29 2.9
8 20 S/2 7 2.9

Fig.5

Proof drawings of relation between size and quantity of base unit needle. (a) Experimental group 6;(b) Experimental group 7; (c) Experimental group 8"

Fig.6

Roadmap of layered combination design"

Fig.7

Color separation images and gray image of flower pattern. (a) Original image; (b) Petal torus; (c) 2 colors;(d) 4 colors; (e) 8 colors; (f) 2 gray levels;(g) 4 gray levels; (h) 8 gray levels"

Fig.8

Trace-proofing of different base unit needle effect drawing"

Fig.9

Trace-proofing of base unit needle and gray value distribution map"

Fig.10

Contrast drawing of flower pattern proofing. (a) Physical drawing of freehand machine embroidery;(b) Physical drawing of conventional machine embroidery"

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