Journal of Textile Research ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (11): 128-135.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200403508

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Design method of lapel collar structure based on structure model of lapel collar looseness

ZHANG Heng()   

  1. Changchun Institute of Technology, Changchun, Jilin 130021, China
  • Received:2020-04-14 Revised:2020-08-09 Online:2020-11-15 Published:2020-11-26

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Abstract:

In order to improve the calculation accuracy of lapel looseness and general structural design method of lapel collar, a design method of lapel structure based on lapel looseness structure model was proposed. The calculation coefficient of lapel looseness was determined by constructing the structure model of lapel looseness, and the change of lapel clearance under six different conditions was analyzed. According to the regression coefficient model for lapel clearance, the given constant of lapel looseness was determined. SPSS statistical software was used to analyze the correlation, regression and paired sample T test, and the calculation formula of lapel looseness was derived. The experimental results show that the lapel looseness calculated by the formula improves the accuracy of the structural modeling of the lapel, and it is proven that the design method of the lapel structure based on the lapel looseness structure model is able to meet the design requirements of different lapel types.

Key words: lapel collar interval, lapel collar looseness, fold over collar structure, clothing design

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.17

Fig.1

Relationship between overturned collar structure, body shoulder and neck. (a) Front;(b) Back"

Fig.2

Theoretical structure model of lapel collar looseness"

Fig.3

Inclination of different parts of human cervical root. (a) Side;(b) Front"

Fig.4

Objective structure model of lapel collar looseness. (a) Combined armhole;(b) Measurement of lapel clearance at FNP;(c) Measurement of lapel clearance at SNP1;(d) Measurement of lapel clearance at SNP2;(e) Measurement of lapel clearance at BNP;(f) Comparison between theoretical and objective structural models"

Fig.5

Main addition interval of lapel collar looseness. (a) Neck structure model;(b) Neckline structure model"

Tab.1

Statistics of lapel collar interval of neck with a side inclination of 96°and a height of 3 cm $qquad$ cm"

翻领宽 领座高 m与n
差值		 翻领间隙
BNP SNP1 SNP2 FNP 平均值
3.5 3 0.5 0.50 0.88 0.96 0.6 0.74
4.0 3 1.0 1.00 1.59 1.69 1.17 1.36
4.5 3 1.5 1.50 2.23 2.35 1.72 1.95
5.0 3 2.0 2.00 2.83 2.96 2.26 2.51
5.5 3 2.5 2.50 3.41 3.55 2.79 3.06
6.0 3 3.0 3.00 3.98 4.12 3.32 3.61
6.5 3 3.5 3.50 4.53 4.67 3.84 4.14
7.0 3 4.0 4.00 5.07 5.22 4.36 4.66

Tab.2

Statistics of lapel collar interval of neck with a side inclination of 96°and a height of 2.5 cm $qquad$ cm"

翻领宽 领座高 m与n
差值		 翻领间隙
BNP SNP1 SNP2 FNP 平均值
3.0 2.5 0.5 0.50 0.86 0.93 0.6 0.72
3.5 2.5 1.0 1.00 1.54 1.64 1.16 1.34
4.0 2.5 1.5 1.50 2.17 2.27 1.70 1.91
4.5 2.5 2.0 2.00 2.76 2.86 2.24 2.47
5.0 2.5 2.5 2.50 3.33 3.43 2.76 3.01
5.5 2.5 3.0 3.00 3.88 3.99 3.28 3.54
6.0 2.5 3.5 3.50 4.42 4.53 3.80 4.06
6.5 2.5 4.0 4.00 4.94 5.07 4.32 4.58

Tab.3

Statistics of lapel collar interval of neck with a side inclination of 96°and a height of 2 cm $qquad$ cm"

翻领宽 领座高 m与n
差值		 翻领间隙
BNP SNP1 SNP2 FNP 平均值
2.5 2 0.5 0.50 0.83 0.89 0.59 0.70
3.0 2 1.0 1.00 1.49 1.57 1.15 1.30
3.5 2 1.5 1.50 2.08 2.17 1.68 1.86
4.0 2 2.0 2.00 2.66 2.75 2.21 2.41
4.5 2 2.5 2.50 3.20 3.30 2.73 2.93
5.0 2 3.0 3.00 3.74 3.84 3.25 3.46
5.5 2 3.5 3.50 4.27 4.37 3.76 3.98
6.0 2 4.0 4.00 4.79 4.91 4.27 4.49

Tab.4

Statistics of lapel collar interval of neck with a side inclination of 90°and a height of 3 cm $qquad$ cm"

翻领宽 领座高 m与n
差值		 翻领间隙
BNP SNP1 SNP2 FNP 平均值
3.5 3 0.5 0.50 1.00 1.10 0.52 0.78
4.0 3 1.0 1.00 1.75 1.88 1.04 1.42
4.5 3 1.5 1.50 2.42 2.55 1.55 2.01
5.0 3 2.0 2.00 3.03 3.18 2.06 2.57
5.5 3 2.5 2.50 3.62 3.77 2.57 3.12
6.0 3 3.0 3.00 4.19 4.35 3.08 3.66
6.5 3 3.5 3.50 4.75 4.91 3.59 4.19
7.0 3 4.0 4.00 5.30 5.46 4.09 4.71

Tab.5

Statistics of lapel collar interval of neck with a side inclination of 90°and a height of 2.5 cm $qquad$ cm"

翻领宽 领座高 m与n
差值		 翻领间隙
BNP SNP1 SNP2 FNP 平均值
3.0 2.5 0.5 0.50 0.97 1.06 0.52 0.76
3.5 2.5 1.0 1.00 1.69 1.79 1.04 1.38
4.0 2.5 1.5 1.50 2.33 2.44 1.55 1.96
4.5 2.5 2.0 2.00 2.92 3.05 2.06 2.51
5.0 2.5 2.5 2.50 3.50 3.63 2.57 3.05
5.5 2.5 3.0 3.00 4.05 4.19 3.07 3.58
6.0 2.5 3.5 3.50 4.60 4.74 3.58 4.11
6.5 2.5 4.0 4.00 5.14 5.28 4.08 4.63

Tab.6

Statistics of lapel collar interval of neck with a side inclination of 90°and a height of 2 cm $qquad$ cm"

翻领宽 领座高 m与n
差值		 翻领间隙
BNP SNP1 SNP2 FNP 平均值
2.5 2 0.5 0.50 0.93 1.00 0.52 0.74
3.0 2 1.0 1.00 1.61 1.70 1.04 1.34
3.5 2 1.5 1.50 2.22 2.32 1.54 1.90
4.0 2 2.0 2.00 2.80 2.90 2.05 2.44
4.5 2 2.5 2.50 3.35 3.46 2.56 2.97
5.0 2 3.0 3.00 3.90 4.00 3.06 3.49
5.5 2 3.5 3.50 4.43 4.54 3.57 4.01
6.0 2 4.0 4.00 4.96 5.07 4.07 4.53

Fig.6

Analysis on correlation between difference of lapel collar seat and the mean value of lapel gap"

Tab.7

m、n difference and lapel collar interval mean experimental data"

实验样本 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
m与n差值/cm 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 3.5 4
翻领间隙平均值/cm 0.74 1.36 1.95 2.51 3.06 3.61 4.14 4.66

Tab.8

Analysis of the average data of lapel collar interval"

表序 m与n差值/cm
0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 3.5 4
表1 0.74 1.36 1.95 2.51 3.06 3.61 4.14 4.66
表2 0.72 1.34 1.91 2.47 3.01 3.54 4.06 4.58
表3 0.70 1.30 1.86 2.41 2.93 3.46 3.98 4.49
表4 0.78 1.42 2.01 2.57 3.12 3.66 4.19 4.71
表5 0.76 1.38 1.96 2.51 3.05 3.58 4.11 4.63
表6 0.74 1.34 1.90 2.44 2.97 3.49 4.01 4.53
平均近似值 1.00 1.50 2.00 2.50 3.00 3.50 4.00 4.50

Tab.9

Comparison between regression equation calculation of lapel collar interval and the given constant calculation results"

序号 翻领间隙回归方程计算结果/cm 给定常数计算结果/cm
1 y =1.12×0.5+0.24=0.8 y= 3.5-3+0.5=1
2 y =1.12×1+0.24=1.36 y= 4-3+0.5=1.5
3 y =1.12×1.5+0.24=1.92 y= 4.5-3+0.5=2
4 y =1.12×2+0.24=2.48 y= 5-3+0.5=2.5
5 y =1.12×2.5+0.24=3.04 y= 5.5-3+0.5=3
6 y =1.12×3+0.24=3.6 y= 6-3+0.5=3.5
7 y =1.12×3.5+0.24=4.16 y= 6.5-3+0.5=4
8 y =1.12×4+0.24=4.72 y= 7-3+0.5=4.5

Tab.10

T test results of overturned collar interval regression equation and given parameter pairing sample"

配对样本 成对差分 Sig.
(双侧)
均值 标准差 均值的标准误
回归方程-
给定常数		 0.011 25 0.132 06 0.046 69 0.817

Fig.7

Design example of lapel collar structure. (a) Lapel;(b) Inverted lapel;(c) Flat lapel"

Fig.8

Sample verification of lapel collar structure. (a) Lapel;(b) Inverted lapel;(c) Flat lapel"

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