Journal of Textile Research ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (01): 133-137.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200505706

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Custom design of cheongsam based on digital 3-D human model

JI Yanbo(), WANG Lingli, LIU Kaixuan   

  1. Apparel & Art Design College, Xi'an Polytechnic University, Xi'an, Shaanxi 710048, China
  • Received:2020-05-28 Revised:2020-10-15 Online:2021-01-15 Published:2021-01-21

Abstract:

This reported research worked on the problems of poor fitting and long design and pattern making cycle in the traditional pattern generation process for custom-made body-fitting garment. A method of custom-design of cheongsam based on a three-dimensional visualization technology and reverse engineering technology was adopted. The 3-D virtual design platform was used for the parameterization setting of the human body model supported by the 3-D scanned data of 23 characteristic parts of the human body. Then, a characteristic human body model of "body-fitting tolerance" was constructed by adding the tolerance of the four key parts of the human body model, and the 3-D cheongsam style and internal segmentation design were carried out on it. Finally, the 3-D cheongsam surface was automatically flattened to obtain the 2-D pattern, and the garment made of the 2-D pattern is subjectively evaluated. The results show that the subjective evaluation index of the garment reached more than 4.0 points, and this method can be used to carry out effectively the design of body-fitting garment and the automatic generation of pattern.

Key words: 3-D visual design, reverse engineering, surface flattening, template generation, cheongsam design, clothing customization

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.26

Tab.1

Human scanning data"

序号 部位 测量数据/
cm
序号 部位 测量数据/
cm
1 身高 165.20 13 肩宽 38.00
2 腰高 102.60 14 手臂长 53.60
3 颈椎点高 138.90 15 上臂长 30.70
4 臀突点高 82.80 16 头围 50.14
5 膝盖高 44.20 17 颈中围 34.42
6 背长 36.30 18 上胸宽 35.50
7 背宽 31.37 19 手腕围 14.35
8 胸围 84.84 20 大腿围 46.90
9 腰围 61.70 21 膝盖围 32.20
10 臀围 88.09 22 小腿围 31.80
11 上臂围 22.31 23 脚踝围 19.30
12 肘围 19.90

Tab.2

Ease chart for woven fabric garment"

合体程
度/部位
围度/cm
胸围松量 腰围松量 臀围松量
贴体 0~4.0 0~4.0 0~4.0
合体 4.0~10.0 4.0~8.0 4.0~8.0
半合体 10.0~14.0 8.0~12.0 8.0~12.0

Tab.3

Comparison of size of characteristic human model and the loose human modelcm"

模型类别 胸围 腰围 臀围 上臂围
特征人体模型 84.84 61.70 88.09 22.31
松量人体模型 88.84 65.70 92.09 25.31

Fig.1

Human model. (a) Standard human body;(b) Characteristic human body; (c) Loose human body"

Fig.2

Cheongsam curved surface fitting process"

Fig.3

Seams drawing process. (a)Body dart position;(b) Seams design"

Fig.4

Curved surface flattening"

Fig.5

Cheongsam pattern"

Fig.6

Virtual fitting. (a) Front; (b) Side; (c) Back"

Fig.7

Virtual garment pressure detection. (a) Front;(b) Side; (c) Back"

Fig.8

Virtual design effect. (a) Right side;(b) Front side; (c) Left side"

Fig.9

Human fitting. (a) Front; (b) Side; (c) Back"

Tab.4

Sample clothing evaluation index table"

测评项目 领子 胸部 肩部 袖窿 腰部 臀部
评分 4.9 4.8 4.5 4.2 4.8 4.6
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