Journal of Textile Research ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (02): 80-86.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200601307

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Characterization of fabric smoothness appearance based on buckling-induced mechanical test with multiple deformation of fabrics

XIAO Caiqin, SUN Fengxin(), GAO Weidong   

  1. Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles (Jiangnan University), Ministry of Education, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2020-06-04 Revised:2020-11-03 Online:2021-02-15 Published:2021-02-23
  • Contact: SUN Fengxin E-mail:fxsun@jiangnan.edu.cn

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Abstract:

The existing methods for testing fabric smoothness appearance based on image methods or visual principles are susceptible to the complex patterns and textures of fabrics, with shortcomings such as poor adaptability for different types of fabrics. Characterization method of fabric smoothness appearance was proposed based on the simultaneous-mechanical testing technology. 30 fabric samples were selected for in-situ mechanical test under multiple deformations, and five characteristic indexes of the force-displacement test curve were extracted respectively. SPSS software was used to correlate the extracted characteristic indexes, and fabric thickness with the subjective evaluation results. The stepwise regression method was used to construct a prediction model for fabric smoothness appearance, and the prediction model was validated with the help of a set of independent experiments. The results show that the evaluation results of the prediction model based on the in-situ mechanical test method have a good agreement with the subjective evaluation results, indicating the feasibility and effectiveness of the in-situ mechanical test method to characterize the appearance of the fabric.

Key words: fabric smoothness appearance, fabric wrinkle, in-situ mechanical test method, buckling inducing

CLC Number: 

  • TS101.2

Fig.1

Schematic of evaluation system for fabrics smoothness appearance"

Fig.2

Illustration of in-situ mechanical testing process and featured testing steps"

Tab.1

Primary parameters of samples"

试样
编号		 厚度/mm 面密度/
(g·m-2)		 折皱回复
角/(°)		 折皱回复
率/%		 弯曲刚度/
(cN·cm2·cm-1)		 组织结构 成分
1 0.215 134.3 95.00 77.72 0.123 平纹 棉/涤纶
2 0.273 111.1 75.00 55.63 0.076 平纹 粘胶
3 0.216 117.5 82.00 62.58 0.265 平纹 粘胶
4 0.226 124.7 83.00 62.62 0.683 平纹 粘胶
5 0.419 207.4 80.00 57.81 0.894 平纹 棉/涤纶
6 0.775 371.8 46.00 34.28 1.292 斜纹 棉/涤纶
7 0.447 199.8 75.00 56.58 0.550 斜纹 棉/涤纶
8 0.573 258.4 45.00 30.58 0.746 斜纹 棉
9 0.398 170.7 73.00 50.00 0.385 平纹 棉
10 0.256 142.4 95.00 63.62 0.722 平纹 棉/涤纶
11 0.220 136.6 104.00 69.17 0.248 平纹 棉
12 0.432 184.8 73.00 55.45 0.170 斜纹 棉
13 0.397 205.2 52.00 39.85 0.439 斜纹 棉
14 1.660 575.0 155.00 61.32 2.583 平纹 羊毛/涤纶
15 0.479 279.7 86.00 61.46 0.663 平纹 棉/涤纶
16 0.225 114.5 134.00 78.03 0.062 平纹 锦纶
17 0.450 270.4 42.00 33.37 1.026 斜纹 棉/氨纶
18 0.335 165.2 76.00 53.02 0.132 斜纹 棉/粘胶
19 0.335 165.3 35.00 28.37 0.392 平纹 亚麻
20 0.228 155.4 62.00 51.30 0.369 斜纹 棉
21 0.216 121.5 149.00 69.67 0.077 平纹 锦纶/棉
22 0.343 202.5 56.00 46.01 0.433 斜纹 锦纶/棉/氨纶
23 0.315 208.0 95.00 49.46 1.140 斜纹 涤纶/锦纶
24 0.260 116.5 89.00 63.27 0.093 平纹 棉
25 0.253 127.4 63.00 48.38 0.273 平纹 棉
26 0.271 123.3 60.00 51.77 0.729 平纹 棉
27 0.219 122.9 85.00 71.01 0.211 平纹 棉
28 0.316 173.2 64.00 59.27 0.370 平纹 棉
29 0.216 115.6 65.00 52.65 0.113 平纹 棉/涤纶
30 0.232 119.6 105.00 68.23 0.153 斜纹 棉/锦纶/氨纶

Fig.3

AATCC standard photographs"

Fig.4

Force-displacement curve of in-situ mechanical tests"

Tab.2

Results of subjective evaluation of fabric smoothness appearance and feature indices"

试样
编号		 织物外观平整度主观评价 原位力学测试曲线特征指标
评委1 评委2 评委3 评委4 评委5 评委6 均值 Dwr/mm Hwr/cN Fwr/cN Scr/(cN·mm-1) Str/(cN·mm-1)
1 4.0 3.5 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 3.92 0.10 4.41 5.35 743.30 729.69
2 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.5 3.0 3.0 3.25 0.18 4.86 5.01 834.35 710.25
3 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.42 0.07 3.81 4.72 804.29 730.37
4 3.5 3.0 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.50 0.19 10.15 8.65 775.13 762.00
5 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.33 0.17 15.68 10.15 676.50 764.44
6 2.0 1.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 1.83 0.72 29.88 18.82 591.45 501.04
7 3.5 4.0 3.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.50 0.18 11.26 7.59 724.26 492.81
8 2.0 2.0 1.0 2.0 2.0 1.0 1.67 0.58 20.13 13.80 651.39 703.52
9 2.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 2.0 2.67 0.20 9.36 6.17 707.85 601.82
10 4.0 3.5 3.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.50 0.07 7.21 9.11 663.66 818.00
11 3.5 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.67 0.05 2.65 5.34 775.07 679.33
12 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.5 3.0 3.0 3.25 0.39 8.24 7.31 712.37 682.33
13 3.0 2.0 3.0 2.0 3.0 2.0 2.50 0.61 17.63 13.33 702.55 692.92
14 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.42 0.06 10.68 12.37 372.09 662.72
15 3.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.42 0.22 23.22 18.17 506.74 755.39
16 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 5.0 5.0 4.33 0.13 2.42 2.65 815.45 725.32
17 2.0 1.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 1.83 0.61 27.17 16.32 647.78 562.53
18 3.5 3.0 3.5 3.0 3.0 3.5 3.25 0.23 5.34 4.59 777.34 635.10
19 2.0 2.0 1.0 2.0 1.0 1.0 1.50 1.58 17.19 13.99 713.78 702.95
20 3.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0 3.25 0.36 12.57 8.82 715.88 706.39
21 4.0 3.5 4.0 4.0 3.5 4.0 3.83 0.18 1.31 2.13 800.97 728.54
22 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.00 0.84 14.96 10.69 700.15 555.92
23 3.0 3.5 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.08 0.23 10.55 8.95 593.71 758.66
24 3.5 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.58 0.09 3.92 4.40 804.38 691.42
25 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.00 0.41 15.31 12.73 789.83 739.76
26 3.5 3.0 3.0 3.5 3.0 3.0 3.17 0.25 13.04 11.93 760.38 775.87
27 4.0 3.5 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.67 0.16 7.48 6.49 723.25 715.51
28 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.25 0.26 12.07 12.29 712.50 695.58
29 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.33 0.27 4.79 5.49 793.77 708.81
30 3.5 3.5 4.0 4.0 3.0 3.0 3.50 0.32 2.32 2.25 802.08 739.51

Fig.5

Subjective evaluation of fabric smoothness"

Tab.3

Correlation analysis of fabric smoothness appearance and curve characteristic index"

Dwr Hwr Fwr Scr Str T W G
Dwr 1
Hwr 0.688** 1
Fwr 0.599** 0.939** 1
Scr -0.324 -0.755** -0.853** 1
Str -0.408 -0.287 -0.164 0.126 1
T 0.436* 0.779** 0.723** -0.756** -0.485* 1
W 0.439* 0.825** 0.822** -0.925** 0.359 0.883** 1
G -0.825** -0.718** -0.626** 0.465* 0.414* -0.577** -0.551** 1

Tab.4

Comparison of subjective and objective evaluation of fabric smoothness appearance"

试样编号 主观评价 客观评价 差值 误差率绝对值/%
24 3.58 3.71 -0.13 3.6
25 3.00 2.86 0.14 4.6
26 3.17 3.13 0.04 1.3
27 3.67 3.48 0.19 5.2
28 3.25 3.17 0.08 2.5
29 3.33 3.47 -0.14 4.2
30 3.50 3.53 -0.03 0.9
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