Journal of Textile Research ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (04): 74-79.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200603906

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Influence of ply number of cotton yarns on fabrics performance

ZUO Yajun1, CAI Yun2, WANG Lei1, GAO Weidong1()   

  1. 1. Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles(Jiangnan University), Ministry of Education, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
    2. Wuxi No.1 Cotton Textiles Group Co., Ltd., Wuxi, Jiangsu 214000, China
  • Received:2020-06-15 Revised:2020-12-22 Online:2021-04-15 Published:2021-04-20
  • Contact: GAO Weidong E-mail:gaowd3@163.com

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Abstract:

In order to study the effect of the ply number of cotton yarns on the mechanical properties and shape retention of woven fabrics, single, double, triple and quadruple plied yarns with the same fineness were used for making fabrics with appropriate warp and weft densities, using the plain, left twill and satin weaves. The tensile properties, tear strength, tensile elasticity, wrinkle recovery, drapeability and bendability of the fabrics were tested and analyzed. The results show that the fabric with 3-ply yarn has a higher breaking strength and tear strength, the fabric with 4-ply yarn has a higher elongation at break, and the fabric with 2-ply yarn has a greater tensile elastic recovery rate. For the plain weave fabrics, the fabric made from the 2-ply yarn demonstrated better wrinkle recovery than that from single-ply yarn. The wrinkle recovery of the twill and satin fabrics deteriorates as the yarn ply number increases. The plain woven fabric made from 2-ply yarns have good drape, but not as good as the twill and satin fabrics, and fabric using single-ply yarn has better bending properties than other fabrics.

Key words: cotton yarn, ply number, fabric weave, mechanical property, shape retention

CLC Number: 

  • TS101.923

Tab.1

Specifications of fabric samples"

织物编号 线密度 组织
经纱 纬纱
A1 9.6 tex 9.6 tex 平纹
A2 9.6 tex 9.6 tex 左斜
A3 9.6 tex 9.6 tex 缎纹
B1 4.8 tex×2 4.8 tex×2 平纹
B2 4.8 tex×2 4.8 tex×2 左斜
B3 4.8 tex×2 4.8 tex×2 缎纹
C1 3.2 tex×3 3.2 tex×3 平纹
C2 3.2 tex×3 3.2 tex×3 左斜
C3 3.2 tex×3 3.2 tex×3 缎纹
D1 2.4 tex×4 2.4 tex×4 平纹
D2 2.4 tex×4 2.4 tex×4 左斜
D3 2.4 tex×4 2.4 tex×4 缎纹

Tab.2

Yarn performance"

合股数 线密度 断裂强力/cN 单纱断裂强度/
(cN·tex-1)		 股线断裂强度/
(cN·tex-1)		 单纱断裂
伸长率/%		 股线断裂
伸长率/%		 条干CV值/%
单纱 9.6 tex 264.96 27.3 — 5.73 — 11.60
双股线 4.8 tex×2 270.15 24.9 27.85 5.50 5.85 11.13
3股线 3.2 tex×3 274.60 22.4 28.31 5.30 6.21 10.27
4股线 2.4 tex×4 268.68 18.8 27.70 4.80 6.81 10.21

Tab.3

Fabric breaking strength and elongation at break"

织物编号 断裂强力/N 断裂强力CV值/% 断裂伸长率/% 断裂伸长率CV值/%
经向 纬向 经向 纬向 经向 纬向 经向 纬向
A1 1 011.30 420.74 2.0 2.6 15.17 10.17 2.5 1.3
B1 1 022.72 522.16 2.0 1.6 16.31 9.76 1.0 1.4
C1 1 023.58 551.68 4.8 4.4 17.53 11.55 3.4 2.2
D1 888.56 540.16 3.2 3.3 18.08 12.60 1.2 2.0
A2 817.96 403.22 8.1 3.6 8.60 16.65 3.3 1.8
B2 1 130.12 386.30 6.5 5.9 7.95 15.78 4.8 1.1
C2 1 153.76 389.47 5.7 6.3 10.62 16.40 2.5 1.7
D2 1 112.62 432.50 2.3 4.9 11.18 16.56 3.6 2.3
A3 1 154.26 461.04 6.8 3.8 9.17 17.22 2.0 1.2
B3 1 140.96 398.46 2.9 4.9 8.59 17.21 3.7 1.2
C3 1 165.54 411.56 4.7 3.2 10.33 17.80 2.0 2.2
D3 1 116.30 386.16 2.8 3.1 10.52 19.44 1.9 1.0

Fig.1

Warp (a) and weft (b) tear strength of fabric"

Fig.2

Warp (a) and weft (b) elastic recovery rate of fabric"

Fig.3

Fabric wrinkle recovery angle"

Tab.4

Drapability of fabric%"

织物编号 静态悬垂系数 动态悬垂系数
A1 62.06 63.80
B1 55.85 57.41
C1 58.50 59.52
D1 65.93 66.53
A2 42.90 45.36
B2 44.68 46.90
C2 40.51 42.99
D2 36.60 39.54
A3 40.96 43.28
B3 43.72 45.95
C3 40.49 43.04
D3 40.93 43.54

Fig.4

Warp (a) and weft (b) bending length of fabric"

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