Journal of Textile Research ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (06): 78-84.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200606407

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Process design of combed yarn from original and discolored yak hair

QIN Xiaoxuan1,2(), QU Lixin3, XIE Chunping2   

  1. 1. Institute of Film and Television, Wuxi City College of Vocational Technology, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214000, China
    2. College of Textile Science and Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
    3. Wuxi Vocational College of Science and Technology, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214028, China
  • Received:2020-06-23 Revised:2021-03-03 Online:2021-06-15 Published:2021-06-28

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Abstract:

At present, yak hair fiber is difficult for yarn spinning especially for pure combed yarn spinning due to its features, including short length, and large variation in fiber length. There is also lots of coarse wool in the yak cashmere, which makes it impossible for the combed slivers of the yak hair to be produced in the wool worsted equipments. This paper introduced an efficient carding system, including a convenient fiber feeding device, an efficient preparing device, a low damage carding device, and a full dropping-recovery device. By using the system, the crimp and lumpy hair was stretched into straight individual fibers. In creating the yarns, the ring spinning, lattice apron compact spinning, and roller-type compact spinning were used form the original and discolored yak hair combed single yarns and siro spun yarns, and the qualities of spun yarns were measured and analyzed for comparison. The results show that the ring spinning method cannot be used for 16.7 tex spun yarn due to high yarn breakage. Comparing with quality of yarn produced using lattice apron compact spinning, the strength and elongation, and evenness of the original yak hair yarn spun created using roller-type compact spinning are improved, but with higher rate of hairiness. Comparing with the original yak hair yarn, the discolored yak hair yarn demonstrates lower comprehensive properties, especially the yarn strength. Comparing with lattice apron compact spinning, the roller-type compact spinning is more suitable for discolored yak hair yarn spinning due to the flexible and stable parallel condensing process.

Key words: yak hair, accurate separation, compact spinning, carding, combed yarn

CLC Number: 

  • TS101

Fig.1

Processing of yak hair"

Tab.1

Wool oil parameters of yak hair yarn"

原料 和毛加
油量/% 		抗静电剂
加入量/% 		回潮
率/% 		焖放
时间/h
原色 0.4~0.5 0.13~0.16 20~22 12~24
脱色 0.5~0.6 0.15~0.25 20~22 12~24

Fig.2

Accurate separation of hair and fur device"

Tab.2

Process design of original yak hair yarn"

线密度/tex 粗纱定量/(g·(10 m)-1) 捻度/(捻·(10 m)-1) 钢领型号 钢丝圈 隔距块 锭速/(r·min-1)
25 4 698.4 PG1-4254 3/0 3.0 10 000
16.7 3.7 859.6 PG1-3854 12/0 2.8 8 500

Tab.3

Process design of discolored yak hair yarn"

线密度/tex 粗纱定量/(g·(10 m)-1) 捻度/(捻·(10 m)-1) 钢领型号 钢丝圈 隔距块 锭速/(r·min-1)
25 4 732.6 PG1-4254 3/0 3.0 9 000
16.7 3.7 903.4 PG1-3854 12/0 2.8 7 900

Tab.4

Evenness and strength of 25 tex original yak hair yarn"

纺纱形式 纱线原料 强力/cN 伸长率/% 条干
CV值/% 		细节-50%/
(个·km-1) 		粗节+50%/
(个·km-1) 		毛粒+200%/
(个·km-1)
单纱 环锭纺 棕牦牛绒 92.1 5.10 15.56 36 60 15
青牦牛绒 95.6 5.46 15.44 29 58 20
紧密纺 棕牦牛绒 103.3 5.21 15.38 25 50 10
青牦牛绒 115.7 5.47 15.13 15 30 15
全聚纺 棕牦牛绒 108.6 5.82 14.99 20 30 50
青牦牛绒 116.2 6.03 14.82 10 15 10
赛络纱 环锭纺 棕牦牛绒 96.7 5.35 15.33 22 45 15
青牦牛绒 108.1 5.40 15.06 18 40 13
紧密纺 棕牦牛绒 107.4 5.32 15.13 20 40 10
青牦牛绒 120.3 5.24 14.88 10 20 10
全聚纺 棕牦牛绒 112.9 5.95 14.74 10 30 25
青牦牛绒 121.8 6.11 14.57 5 10 10

Tab.5

Hairiness of 25 tex original yak hair yarn"

纺纱形式 纱线原料 毛羽数/(根·(100 m)-1)
1 mm 2 mm 3 mm 4 mm 6 mm 8 mm 10 mm
单纱 环锭纺 棕牦牛绒 11 857 5 731 2 853 2 223 981 486 174
青牦牛绒 11 230 5 484 2 623 2 047 887 456 158
紧密纺 棕牦牛绒 8 893 3 302 1 445 859 267 83 37
青牦牛绒 8 326 2 763 1 275 815 139 33 10
全聚纺 棕牦牛绒 9 029 3 761 1 449 843 238 67 26
青牦牛绒 8 764 2 559 1 247 853 142 19 5
赛络纱 环锭纺 棕牦牛绒 9 842 4 580 2 036 1 283 493 301 75
青牦牛绒 9 736 4 219 1 947 1 064 465 268 66
紧密纺 棕牦牛绒 8 448 3 137 1 373 816 254 78 34
青牦牛绒 7 960 2 569 1 211 774 132 31 9
全聚纺 棕牦牛绒 8 577 3 572 1 376 799 226 63 24
青牦牛绒 8 321 2 431 1 209 811 134 18 5

Tab.6

Evenness and strength of 16.7 tex original yak hair yarn"

纺纱形式 纱线原料 强力/cN 伸长率/% 条干
CV值/% 		细节-50%/
(个·km-1) 		粗节+50%/
(个·km-1) 		毛粒+200%/
(个·km-1)
单纱 紧密纺 棕牦牛绒 76.20 6.32 17.35 90 100 230
青牦牛绒 80.79 7.24 16.61 100 120 80
全聚纺 棕牦牛绒 83.31 6.90 17.48 105 125 285
青牦牛绒 83.54 6.82 15.95 100 140 60
赛络纱 紧密纺 棕牦牛绒 87.14 7.07 17.75 240 160 350
青牦牛绒 89.12 7.31 16.32 80 130 65
全聚纺 棕牦牛绒 88.36 8.66 16.51 110 85 260
青牦牛绒 90.23 8.93 15.68 70 90 105

Tab.7

Hairiness of 16.7 tex original yak hair yarn"

纺纱形式 纱线原料 毛羽数/(根·(100 m)-1)
1 mm 2 mm 3 mm 4 mm 6 mm 8 mm 10 mm
单纱 紧密纺 棕牦牛绒 6 546 1 654 774 212 68 28 15
青牦牛绒 6 179 1 483 530 155 57 22 11
全聚纺 棕牦牛绒 7 064 1 746 805 208 64 23 16
青牦牛绒 6 697 1 532 521 160 58 20 10
赛络纱 紧密纺 棕牦牛绒 6 218 1 570 735 201 64 25 12
青牦牛绒 5 869 1 418 501 145 52 19 8
全聚纺 棕牦牛绒 6 710 1 657 763 196 58 19 13
青牦牛绒 6 362 1 455 493 150 54 17 7

Tab.8

Evenness and strength of 25 tex discolored yak hair yarn"

纺纱形式 强力/cN 伸长率/% 条干
CV值/% 		细节(-50)%/
(个·km-1) 		粗节(+50%)/
(个·km-1) 		毛粒(+200%)/
(个·km-1)
单纱 环锭纺 95.4 4.6 16.72 30 65 83
紧密纺 106.9 4.7 16.53 25 50 70
全聚纺 113.3 4.3 15.88 23 30 50
赛络纱 环锭纺 101.5 4.7 16.02 25 58 52
紧密纺 112.7 4.5 16.17 30 60 43
全聚纺 119.8 4.8 15.38 23 30 28

Tab.9

Hairiness of 25 tex discolored yak hair yarn"

纺纱形式 毛羽数/(根·(100 m)-1)
1 mm 2 mm 3 mm 4 mm 6 mm 8 mm 10 mm
单纱 环锭纺 15 364 6 305 3 941 2 964 1 483 583 190
紧密纺 11 970 4 921 2 185 1 168 356 123 57
全聚纺 13 058 4 312 2 294 1 127 378 119 62
赛络纱 环锭纺 13 367 5 359 2 876 1 881 921 296 82
紧密纺 11 213 4 673 2 084 1 108 316 97 39
全聚纺 12 350 4 093 2 178 1 069 323 91 41

Tab.10

Evenness and strength of 16.7 tex discolored yak hair yarn"

纺纱形式 强力/cN 伸长率/% 条干CV值/% 细节-50%/
(个·km-1) 		粗节+50%/
(个·km-1) 		毛粒+200%/
(个·km-1)
单纱 紧密纺 66.06 3.92 18.21 220 260 260
全聚纺 65.89 4.03 17.93 200 160 150
赛络纱 紧密纺 70.83 4.95 18.03 135 145 290
全聚纺 70.02 4.98 17.55 320 120 100

Tab.11

Hairiness of 16.7 tex discolored yak hair yarn"

纺纱形式 毛羽数/(根·(100 m)-1)
1 mm 2 mm 3 mm 4 mm 6 mm 8 mm 10 mm
单纱 紧密纺 9 558 3 106 1 173 932 276 40 23
全聚纺 10 273 3 389 1 185 967 259 37 21
赛络纱 紧密纺 9 081 2 949 1 116 819 234 36 18
全聚纺 9 758 3 218 1 124 823 221 39 19
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