Journal of Textile Research ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (04): 139-143.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200700305

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Relationship between garment dart and breast feature of female body

CUI Wen1, LI Xiaohui1,2,3()   

  1. 1. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    2. Shanghai International Institute of Design & Innovation, Tongji University, Shanghai 200092, China
    3. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
  • Received:2020-07-01 Revised:2021-01-14 Online:2021-04-15 Published:2021-04-20
  • Contact: LI Xiaohui E-mail:lxh@dhu.edu.cn

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Abstract:

In order to solve the problems of tedious acquisition and large errors of dart in the pattern design of individualized women's garment, a mathematical modeling method based on feature extraction of female body was proposed. Through the analysis of the influencing factors of the shape of chest, the bust and the difference between upper bust and lower bust was extracted as feature parameters to construct the mathematical model for the front dart. The sample try-on experiment was carried out on the randomly selected test subjects, and paired sample T test with the dart obtained by mathematical method was conducted. The results show that there is a good agreement between the results obtained by mathematical analysis and the actual results. The angle of the front dart based on the body feature can be expressed as a function of the bust and the difference between upper bust and lower bust, and the design method of dart is accurate under the premise of reflecting the body feature efficiently and meet the needs of the individualized garment pattern design.

Key words: garment dart, curved surface of breast, body feature, individualized garment, mathematical modeling, women's garment

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.17

Fig.1

Relationship between garment dart and breast"

Fig.2

Flattened curved surface of breast"

Tab.1

Relevant figure of human body"

样本
编号		 身高/
cm		 年龄/
岁		 净胸围/
cm		 下胸围/
cm		 胸围差/
cm		 前腰节
长/cm		 后背长/
cm		 胸宽/
cm		 背宽/
cm		 总肩宽/
cm		 FNP-BL/
cm		 SNP-BL/
cm		 乳间距/
cm		 肩斜角/
(°)
A1 155 24 87.0 73.0 14.0 41.5 33.0 33.0 37.0 40.0 19.5 25.0 17.0 21
A2 158 40 95.0 85.0 10.0 42.0 34.5 38.0 38.5 41.0 16.5 26.0 15.0 22
A3 160 22 88.0 76.0 12.0 41.0 36.5 35.5 36.0 39.0 18.0 26.0 18.5 20
A4 163 22 82.0 72.0 10.0 41.0 36.0 28.0 35.0 38.0 20.0 28.0 17.0 20
A5 164 22 82.0 70.0 12.0 42.5 37.0 29.5 33.5 38.0 18.5 26.0 17.5 20
A6 164 22 85.0 74.0 11.0 42.0 37.0 34.5 34.5 39.5 18.5 26.5 18.0 20
A7 167 25 86.0 76.0 10.0 42.0 36.5 30.5 35.5 38.0 16.5 25.5 17.0 19
A8 168 23 74.5 67.0 7.5 41.0 36.5 36.0 36.5 37.0 19.0 26.0 15.5 24
A9 170 48 105.0 97.5 7.5 46.0 37.5 37.0 40.0 43.0 19.0 28.0 18.0 20
A10 175 23 95.0 82.0 13.0 45.5 40.0 37.5 37.5 40.5 19.5 27.5 19.0 21

Fig.3

Sample fitting test. (a) Front; (b) Side"

Tab.2

Figure results of experiment on garment dart"

样本
编号		 浮余量
长度/cm		 数学计算获取 实际获取
α/(°) d/cm α/(°) d/cm
A1 15.6 19.1 5.4 20.0 5.7
A2 16.8 20.5 6.3 17.5 5.3
A3 15.7 18.9 5.4 19.0 5.4
A4 14.8 16.6 4.4 17.0 4.5
A5 14.8 17.1 4.6 17.0 4.5
A6 15.3 17.8 4.9 19.0 5.2
A7 15.4 17.8 4.9 18.0 5.0
A8 13.7 13.7 3.3 15.5 3.8
A9 18.3 22.9 7.7 20.0 6.6
A10 16.8 21.3 6.5 21.0 6.4

Tab.3

Results of paired samples obtained from mathematics and practice"

浮余量平均值±标准差/(°) 平均值差
值/(°)		 t值 Sig.
数学计算获取 实际获取
18.56±0.82 18.40±0.54 0.16 0.318 0.758
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