Journal of Textile Research ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (04): 139-143.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200700305

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Relationship between garment dart and breast feature of female body

CUI Wen1, LI Xiaohui1,2,3()   

  1. 1. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    2. Shanghai International Institute of Design & Innovation, Tongji University, Shanghai 200092, China
    3. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
  • Received:2020-07-01 Revised:2021-01-14 Online:2021-04-15 Published:2021-04-20
  • Contact: LI Xiaohui E-mail:lxh@dhu.edu.cn

RichHTML

17

PDF (PC)

141

Abstract:

In order to solve the problems of tedious acquisition and large errors of dart in the pattern design of individualized women's garment, a mathematical modeling method based on feature extraction of female body was proposed. Through the analysis of the influencing factors of the shape of chest, the bust and the difference between upper bust and lower bust was extracted as feature parameters to construct the mathematical model for the front dart. The sample try-on experiment was carried out on the randomly selected test subjects, and paired sample T test with the dart obtained by mathematical method was conducted. The results show that there is a good agreement between the results obtained by mathematical analysis and the actual results. The angle of the front dart based on the body feature can be expressed as a function of the bust and the difference between upper bust and lower bust, and the design method of dart is accurate under the premise of reflecting the body feature efficiently and meet the needs of the individualized garment pattern design.

Key words: garment dart, curved surface of breast, body feature, individualized garment, mathematical modeling, women's garment

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.17

Fig.1

Relationship between garment dart and breast"

Fig.2

Flattened curved surface of breast"

Tab.1

Relevant figure of human body"

样本
编号		 身高/
cm		 年龄/
岁		 净胸围/
cm		 下胸围/
cm		 胸围差/
cm		 前腰节
长/cm		 后背长/
cm		 胸宽/
cm		 背宽/
cm		 总肩宽/
cm		 FNP-BL/
cm		 SNP-BL/
cm		 乳间距/
cm		 肩斜角/
(°)
A1 155 24 87.0 73.0 14.0 41.5 33.0 33.0 37.0 40.0 19.5 25.0 17.0 21
A2 158 40 95.0 85.0 10.0 42.0 34.5 38.0 38.5 41.0 16.5 26.0 15.0 22
A3 160 22 88.0 76.0 12.0 41.0 36.5 35.5 36.0 39.0 18.0 26.0 18.5 20
A4 163 22 82.0 72.0 10.0 41.0 36.0 28.0 35.0 38.0 20.0 28.0 17.0 20
A5 164 22 82.0 70.0 12.0 42.5 37.0 29.5 33.5 38.0 18.5 26.0 17.5 20
A6 164 22 85.0 74.0 11.0 42.0 37.0 34.5 34.5 39.5 18.5 26.5 18.0 20
A7 167 25 86.0 76.0 10.0 42.0 36.5 30.5 35.5 38.0 16.5 25.5 17.0 19
A8 168 23 74.5 67.0 7.5 41.0 36.5 36.0 36.5 37.0 19.0 26.0 15.5 24
A9 170 48 105.0 97.5 7.5 46.0 37.5 37.0 40.0 43.0 19.0 28.0 18.0 20
A10 175 23 95.0 82.0 13.0 45.5 40.0 37.5 37.5 40.5 19.5 27.5 19.0 21

Fig.3

Sample fitting test. (a) Front; (b) Side"

Tab.2

Figure results of experiment on garment dart"

样本
编号		 浮余量
长度/cm		 数学计算获取 实际获取
α/(°) d/cm α/(°) d/cm
A1 15.6 19.1 5.4 20.0 5.7
A2 16.8 20.5 6.3 17.5 5.3
A3 15.7 18.9 5.4 19.0 5.4
A4 14.8 16.6 4.4 17.0 4.5
A5 14.8 17.1 4.6 17.0 4.5
A6 15.3 17.8 4.9 19.0 5.2
A7 15.4 17.8 4.9 18.0 5.0
A8 13.7 13.7 3.3 15.5 3.8
A9 18.3 22.9 7.7 20.0 6.6
A10 16.8 21.3 6.5 21.0 6.4

Tab.3

Results of paired samples obtained from mathematics and practice"

浮余量平均值±标准差/(°) 平均值差
值/(°)		 t值 Sig.
数学计算获取 实际获取
18.56±0.82 18.40±0.54 0.16 0.318 0.758
[1] 张文斌. 服装结构设计[M]. 北京: 中国纺织出版社, 2006: 45.
ZHANG Wenbin. Apparel construction design [M]. Beijing: China Textile & Apparel Press, 2006: 45.
[2] 三吉满智子. 服装造型学:理论篇[M]. 郑嵘,张浩,韩洁羽,译. 北京: 中国纺织出版社, 2006: 128.
TOMOKO Miyoshi. Clothing model theory:theoretical articles[M]. ZHENG Rong, ZAHNG Hao, HAN Jieyu, Translating. Beijing: China Textile & Apparel Press, 2006: 128.
[3] 陈慧蓉, 张欣, 陶娜. 基于三维人体测量的青年女性胸部形态特征分析[J]. 西安工程大学学报, 2008,22(2):146-152.
CHEN Huirong, ZHANG Xin, TAO Na. Research on the breast shapes of young females based on 3D body measurement[J]. Journal of Xi'an Polytechnic University, 2008,22(2):146-152.
[4] 朱晔, 张俊英. 女装原型结构前浮余量的平衡鉴定及调整[J]. 纺织导报, 2010(8):82-84.
ZHU Ye, ZHANG Junying. Front chest ease balance identification and adjustment of prototype for women's wear[J]. China Textile Leader, 2010(8):82-84.
[5] 蒋丽君, 王文玲. 女体胸背部特征与个体原型省道的关系[J]. 东华大学学报(自然科学版), 2014,40(5):571-574.
JIANG Lijun, WANG Wenling. Relationship between female bust and back characteristics and the individual prototype darts[J]. Journal of Donghua Univer-sity (Natural Science), 2014,40(5):571-574.
[6] 李小辉, 范友红, 张文斌. 从胸凸量的角度对女装前衣身结构平衡的探讨[J]. 纺织学报, 2007,28(10):74-77.
LI Xiaohui, FAN Youhong, ZHANG Wenbin. Analyzing the balance of women's pattern from the shape of breast[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2007,28(10):74-77.
[7] 中泽愈. 人体与服装[M]. 袁观洛,译. 北京: 中国纺织出版社, 2005: 108-115.
NAKAZAWA Susumn. The human body and clothing[M]. YUAN Guanluo, Translating. Beijing: China Textile & Apparel Press, 2005: 108-115.
[8] 李明菊. 基于女性体型分析的内衣结构构成及数字化设计研究[D]. 上海:东华大学, 2001: 19.
LI Mingju. A study on the structure of close-fitting garment and its virtual design based on the analysis of women's body shape[D]. Shanghai: Donghua University, 2001: 19.
[9] 徐朝晖. 数据分析在文胸生产上的应用:三[J]. 国际纺织导报, 2001(3):48-49,33.
XU Zhaohui. Application of data analysis on bra production:3[J]. Melliand China, 2001(3):48-49,33.
[10] 印建荣. 内衣结构设计教程[M]. 北京: 中国纺织出版社, 2006: 20-21.
YIN Jianrong. Tutorial of pattern design of underwear[M]. Beijing: China Textile & Apparel Press, 2006: 20-21.
[11] AU C K, MA Y S. Garment pattern definition, development and application with associative feature approach[J]. Computers in Industry, 2010,61(6):524-531.
[1] ZHOU Qihong, SUN Baotong, CEN Junhao, ZHAN Qichen. Measurement method of winding density of cheese package based on laser scanning and modeling [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2021, 42(01): 96-102.
[2] . Design and knitting shaping method of fully –fashioned Knitwear [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2018, 39(07): 105-110.
[3] . Modeling and tensile performance of negative Poissin's ratio warp-knitted spacer structures based on mesh structure [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2017, 38(09): 59-65.
[4] . Mathematical modeling of air friction duag of clothing fabric surface [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2016, 37(10): 50-55.
[5] CONG Shan;ZHANG Wei-yuan. 3D human body modeling based on lower garment design [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2006, 27(9): 58-61.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited
  Shared   
  Discussed   
No Suggested Reading articles found!
京ICP备14006648号
Copyright 2021 © Editorial office of Journal of Textile Research
Supported by Beijing Magtech Co.Ltd