Journal of Textile Research ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (12): 63-69.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210200508

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Design principle and method for gradient weft-backed structure with 2∶1 weft arrangement

PENG Xi1, TU Yongjian2, ZHOU Jiu1()   

  1. 1. Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
    2. Babei Group Co., Ltd., Shaoxing, Zhejiang 312400, China
  • Received:2021-02-01 Revised:2021-08-22 Online:2021-12-15 Published:2021-12-29
  • Contact: ZHOU Jiu E-mail:zhoujiu34@126.com

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Abstract:

In order to inherit and develop the ancient Chinese brocade, a design principle and method for digital jacquard weaving combining weft-backed structures based on a 2∶1 weft arrangement with shadow weaves was proposed by analyzing the structural characteristics and technical limitations of ground-knot-type brocade using the weft-backed structure. Based on the fact that the fabric surface was intended to display colored weft yarns B and A, the design was divided into two parts. For these two types of covering principles, face and back weaves and corresponding backed points were determined, for which the displacement method and the superposition screening method were used to design the face weave. Then, the two combined weave databases were designed by shadow strengthening method. Feasibility and effect of the method were verified through practical design and manufacture. The results show that this method improves the color expression ability of the fabric. In addition, it demonstrated that two types of gradient color effects with the weft A as main and the weft B as secondary gradient color could be achieved on the same fabric. It provides reference for digital innovative design for the traditional jacquard fabrics.

Key words: silk, ground-knot-type brocade, digital jacquard, weft-backed structure, color shading

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.26

Fig.1

Principle for weft-backed structure based on 2∶1 weft arrangement. (a) Weft B as face weft yarn; (b) Weft A as face weft yarn"

Fig.2

Design process of gradient weft-backed structure based on 2∶1 weft arrangement"

Fig.3

Structural model of gradient weft-backed jacquard fabric based on 2∶1 weft arrangement. (a) B-A-A model Ⅰ; (b) B-A-A model Ⅱ; (c) A-B-A model Ⅰ; (d) A-B-A model Ⅱ; (e) A-A-B model Ⅰ; (f) A-A-B model Ⅱ"

Fig.4

Design process of backed points B"

Fig.5

Options for face weave B"

Fig.6

Minimum shaded weave database of face weave B"

Fig.7

Combined weave database with face weft yarn of weft B"

Fig.8

Two alternative decomposition weave database of face weave A. (a) Alternative decomposition weave database with starting point in odd warp; (b) Alternative decomposition weave database with starting point in even warp"

Fig.9

Options for face weave A. (a) Starting point at odd warp; (b) Starting point at even warp"

Fig.10

Minimum shaded weave database of face weave A"

Fig.11

Combined weave database when weft A as face weft yarn"

Fig.12

Design process of gradient weft-backed jacquard fabric based on 2∶1 weft arrangement"

Tab.1

Technological parameters of gradient weft-backed jacquard fabric based on 2∶1 weft arrangement"

纱线
类别		 纱线线密
度/dtex		 成分 纱线颜色
(排列方式)		 经、纬密度/
(根·(10 cm)-1)
经纱 55 涤纶 白 1 140
纬纱 83 涤纶 2黑1红 840

Fig.13

Design pattern and fabric effect of gradient weft-backed jacquard fabric based on 2∶1 weft arrangement. (a) Design pattern; (b) Face effect of fabric; (c) Reversed effect of fabric; (d) Gradient effect of fabric"

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