Journal of Textile Research ›› 2022, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (03): 146-152.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210403007

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Cost rapid accounting technology of dress based on element matching

XIA Ming1,2(), LI Peiru1, DING Rong1   

  1. 1. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
  • Received:2021-04-12 Revised:2022-01-01 Online:2022-03-15 Published:2022-03-29

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Abstract:

In order to improve the ability of enterprises to quickly calculate clothing cost, the methods of cost calculation and similarity matching of clothing was studied. Firstly, calculate the similarity between the same elements based on the dress elements extraction and quantification; Secondly, calculate the sample similarity by using weighted Euclidean distance and take the largest similarity sample cost as dress sample cost. At the same time, Euclidean distance calculation and BP neural network calculation were set up for comparison. The results show that the matching effect of weighted Euclidean distance calculation is the best. The average error of face cloth cost, lining cost and clothing processing cost calculated by weighted Euclidean distance is 7.44%, 8.90%, 6.11%, which meet the accuracy requirement for enterprise cost accounting.

Key words: dress, cost accounting, fuzzy quantification, weighted Euclidean distance, neural network

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.17

Fig.1

Cost composition of dress"

Fig.2

Histogram of each cost distribution. (a) Fabric cost;(b) Lining cost; (c) Clothing processing cost"

Tab.1

Cost impact factors"

成本类型 影响因子
面布用量 裙长、裙型、腰型、门襟结构、廓形、袖长、袖型、系带、系绳、领型、荷叶边面积、装饰层面积、纵拼缝分布、横斜拼缝、特殊工艺加工类型及分布、面料排料与裁剪规则
里布用量 裙长、裙型、领带、系带、底布分布、纵拼缝分布、拼缝数、荷叶边分布
服装加工工时 系带、裙型、裙长、荷叶边长度、拼缝数、袖数、领型、省道、装饰层面积、纵拼缝分布、开合辅料、底布数量、缉明线部位、缩褶分布、装橡筋部位、装鱼骨部位

Tab.2

Factors of dress"

要素 影响因子 细分要素
款式特征要素 裙长 超短裙(≤75 cm)、短裙(75~95 cm)、中长裙(95~105 cm)、长裙(105~126 cm)、超长裙(>126 cm)
裙型 裙摆大小:包身裙、直身裙、A 字裙、伞裙、大摆裙
款式特点:育克裙、波浪裙拼接、不规则下摆、缩褶、缠裹、塔裙
廓形 H形、A形、T形、X形、S形
腰型 连腰型(后腰缝、无腰缝)、低腰型、标准型、高腰型
门襟结构及开合辅料 门襟结构:拉链、斜襟、套头式、暗门襟、单排扣、系带、缠裹式、搭扣
辅料位置及数量
领口大小 领型:抹胸、吊带、方领、背心、一字领、斜领、圆领、V领、立领、翻领
后背高:颈点、胸围高、下胸围高、腰围高(露背)
袖型 基础结构:圆装袖、插肩袖、连身袖、落肩袖、露背袖
变化结构:飞飞袖、衬衫袖、灯笼袖、喇叭袖、泡泡袖、广口袖、蝙蝠袖
袖长 无袖、短袖、中袖、七分袖、九分袖、长袖
省道位置及数量 胸省(0~2)、上衣腰省(0~4)、裙腰省(0~4)
荷叶边 宽度:宽荷叶边(≥15 cm)、常规荷叶边(7~14 cm)、窄荷叶边(≤6 cm)
层次:单层、双层、多层
应用部位:领口荷叶边、袖口、下摆、拼缝荷叶边
分割线 纵拼缝类型及数量:中缝、侧缝、公主缝、刀背缝、袖中缝
横拼缝类型及数量:腰缝、裙拼接缝、育克缝、袖拼接缝
装饰、系带、系绳 装饰类型:露背、露腰、露肩、裙腰装饰层、扭结、蝴蝶结
用布类型:面布、里布、外面布内里布
绳带应用部位及长度
底布 应用部位:上衣、下裙、系带、袖克夫、领、裙腰装饰层、蕾丝花边
一般工艺要素 工序类别 装橡筋、缉明迹线、缩褶、装鱼骨
应用部位 领口、后领、袖身、袖口、袖顶、腰节、裙脚
面料排料与裁
剪方式		 方向裁剪 一件一方向裁剪、条纹裁剪(对条对格、对称)
定位裁剪 定位印花裁剪、整件定位裁剪
组合裁剪 方向组合:顺裁+斜裁、横条纹裁剪+竖条纹裁剪;定位组合:顺裁+定位、斜裁+斜裁
特殊工艺要素 类型及面积 打条、打揽、风琴褶、牙签褶、扇形褶

Tab.3

Comprehensive skirt rating"

裙长 裙型 款式
名称 等级 名称 等级 特点 面布系数 里布系数
超短裙 2 包身裙 2 不规则下摆 0.8 0.8
短裙 4 直身裙 3 常规 1.0 1.0
中裙 6 A字裙 4 缠裹 1.4 1.4
中长裙 8 伞裙 7 扇形褶 1.5 —
长裙 10 大摆裙 10 含裙底布 — 2.0

Fig.3

Clothing style chart of sample 1. (a)Front; (b)Back"

Tab.4

Elements extraction of sample 1"

影响因子 要素 要素量化值
裙长 短裙 4
裙型 A字裙
常规		 4
1
腰型 正常腰 3
门襟结构 拉链 0
开合辅料 后拉链 280
廓形 X形 10
荷叶边 无 0
装饰 无 3
系带 无 0
系绳 无 0
领型 小圆领 6.5
袖长 短袖 3
袖型 喇叭袖
连身袖		 7
1.4
打条 无 0
裁剪方式 一件一方向竖条裁,对称 2.3
纵拼缝 单中缝 2
横斜拼缝 肩育克、裙拼块 6
拼缝数 14 14
袖数 2 2
胸腰省 胸省、后裙腰省 4
底布 无 0
装橡筋 无 0
缩褶 无 0

Tab.5

Quantification of sample 1"

面布 里布 服装加工
影响因子 特征值 影响因子 特征值 影响因子 特征值
综合裙型 0.095 综合裙型 0.083 综合裙型 0.095
腰型 0.3 腰型 0.3 开合辅料 0.295
门襟结构 0 门襟结构 0 荷叶边长度 0
廓形 1 廓形 1 装饰 0.429
荷叶边 0 装饰 0.5 系带 0
装饰 0.3 系带 0 系绳 0
系带 0 系绳 0 领型 0
系绳 0 领型 0.65 拼缝数 0.263
领型 0.65 综合袖型 0 袖数 1
综合袖型 0.412 底布 0 省道 0.4
裁剪方式 0.038 缩褶 0
纵拼缝 0.2 装橡筋 0
横斜拼缝 0.6 缉明线 0
打条 0 装鱼骨 0
打揽 0 底布 0
风琴褶 0
牙签褶 0

Tab.6

Comparison of error average%"

成本类型 误差平均值
人工神经网络 传统欧式距离 加权欧式距离
面布成本 20.33 11.05 7.44
里布成本 14.77 11.95 8.90
服装加工成本 9.68 7.45 6.11

Tab.7

Comparison of error standard deviation"

成本类型 误差标准差
人工神经网络 传统欧式距离 加权欧式距离
面布成本 0.26 0.11 0.06
里布成本 0.10 0.11 0.06
服装加工成本 0.09 0.05 0.05
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