Journal of Textile Research ›› 2022, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (03): 153-159.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210405007

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Influence of structural parameters of stand collar on clothing styling

WANG Chunru, YUAN Yue, CAO Xiaomeng, FAN Yilin, ZHONG Anhua()   

  1. School of Fashion, Wuhan Textile University, Wuhan, Hubei 430073, China
  • Received:2021-04-19 Revised:2022-01-02 Online:2022-03-15 Published:2022-03-29
  • Contact: ZHONG Anhua E-mail:zhongah@yeah.net

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Abstract:

In order to improve the fit and aesthetics of stand collar styling, explore the relationship between the structural parameters of stand collar and clothing styling and establish their theoretical models, 64 stand collar designs were created with different collar heights, extent of warpage and collar rotation angles. By using virtual fitting technology, the transformation from two-dimensional design to three-dimensional design was completed. The stand collar styling parameters were measured, and the data was subjected to correlation analysis, partial correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The results show that there is a linear relationship between the styling parameters and the structural parameters of the stand collar. Collar height is correlated with 7 styling parameters including the collar depth, and the extent of warpage is related to the length of the top neckline. The rotation angle on the other hand is correlated with the 4 styling parameters such as the front neck allowance, whereas the stand collar fits better when an increased rotation. The regression model of structural parameters and styling parameters was obtained, which was used to design the stand collar structure, and the structural parameters can be quickly adjusted to obtain different stand collar styles.

Key words: clothing, stand collar, structural parameter, virtual fitting, styling parameter

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.2

Fig.1

Virtual human model (a) and style drawing of stand collar (b)"

Fig.2

Method of stand collar pattern"

Fig.3

Comparison of side stand collar dressing effect. (a)Right angle structure of stand collar; (b)Adjustment structure of stand collar"

Fig.4

Comparison of front and side of front neckline before (a) and after (b) sewing"

Tab.1

Measurement method of modeling parameters"

测量项目 符号 测量方法
领上口弧线长度 l 立领上领口弧线的长度
领宽 w 立领正面左右两侧的水平距离
领深 d 立领后中心上端点到前领窝点的垂直距离
颈前空隙量 n1 立领前领口上端点到前颈部的垂直距离
颈后空隙量 n2 立领后中心上端点到后颈部的垂直距离
颈侧空隙量 n3 立领侧面上端点到侧颈部的垂直距离
领前倾斜角 α 立领侧面图前领线与水平线的夹角
领后倾斜角 β 立领侧面图后领线与水平线的夹角
领侧倾斜角 γ 立领正面图侧领线与水平线的夹角

Fig.5

Measurement drawing of styling parameters. (a)Collar width; (b)Collar depth;(c)Amount of space at front of neck;(d)Amount of space at back of neck;(e)Amount of space at side of neck"

Tab.2

Correlation coefficient between collar height and styling parameters"

测量项目 相关系数r 显著性p 样本数n
领上口弧线长度 -0.450** 0.000 64
领宽 -0.011 0.931 64
领深 0.944** 0.000 64
领前倾斜角 -0.279* 0.026 64
领侧倾斜角 -0.658** 0.000 64
领后倾斜角 0.268* 0.032 64
颈前空隙量 0.088 0.490 64
颈后空隙量 -0.316* 0.011 64
颈侧空隙量 -0.604** 0.000 64

Fig.6

Collar structure drawing (a) and front (b), side (c) fitting drawing with different collar heights"

Fig.7

Outline drawing of front and side of stand collar with different collar heights"

Tab.3

Correlation coefficient between extent of warpage and styling parameters"

测量项目 相关系数r 显著性p 样本数n
领上口弧线长度 -0.626** 0.000 64
领宽 0.089 0.483 64
领深 0.011 0.931 64
领前倾斜角 0.112 0.379 64
领侧倾斜角 0.218 0.083 64
领后倾斜角 0.222 0.078 64
颈前空隙量 -0.095 0.453 64
颈后空隙量 -0.237 0.060 64
颈侧空隙量 -0.185 0.144 64

Fig.8

Collar structure drawing (a) and front (b), side (c) fitting drawing with different warpages"

Fig.9

Outline drawing of front and side of stand collar with different warpages"

Tab.4

Correlation coefficient between collar rotation angles and styling parameters"

测量项目 相关系数r 显著性p 样本数n
领上口弧线长度 -0.619** 0.000 64
领宽 -0.012 0.925 64
领深 0.077 0.545 64
领前倾斜角 0.865** 0.000 64
领侧倾斜角 0.020 0.876 64
领后倾斜角 0.199 0.116 64
颈前空隙量 -0.928** 0.000 64
颈后空隙量 -0.345** 0.005 64
颈侧空隙量 0.129 0.309 64

Fig.10

Collar structure drawing (a) and front (b), side (c) fitting drawing with different rotation angles"

Fig.11

Outline drawing of front and side of stand collar with different rotation angles"

Tab.5

Partial correlation analysis"

因变量 控制变量 相关系数r 显著性p
领上口弧线长度 领高和起翘量 -0.972 0.000
起翘量和领口旋转角度 -0.949 0.000
领高和领口旋转角度 -0.973 0.000
颈后空隙量 领高 -0.363 0.003
领口旋转角度 -0.337 0.007
领前倾斜角 领高 0.901 0.000
领口旋转角度 -0.555 0.000

Tab.6

Regression analysis between structure parameters of stand collar and curve of upper neck"

模型 回归
系数		 标准
误差		 皮尔逊
相关系数		 T检验值 显著性
水平
(常量) 40.722 0.140 290.289 0.000
领高 -0.857 0.037 -0.450 -23.276 0.000
起翘量 -1.193 0.037 -0.626 -32.397 0.000
领口旋转角度 -0.118 0.004 -0.619 -32.003 0.000

Fig.12

Sample verification of stand collar structure. (a)Type A;(b)Type B;(c)Type C"

Tab.7

Comparison of calculation results of mathematical model and measurement results"

款式编号 来源 领上口弧
线长度/cm		 领深/cm 领前倾斜角/
(°)		 领后倾斜角/
(°)		 领侧倾斜角/
(°)		 颈前空隙
量/cm		 颈后空隙
量/cm		 颈侧空隙
量/cm
A 1 36.2 7.2 84 93 118 0.9 2.0 0.9
2 36.0 6.9 84 91 113 0.9 1.7 0.6
B 1 34.2 8.4 74 96 114 1.3 1.9 0.7
2 34.5 8.1 80 93 112 1.2 1.7 0.5
C 1 33.1 8.9 84 97 112 0.5 1.8 0.6
2 33.4 8.6 89 97 107 0.7 1.5 0.4
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