Journal of Textile Research ›› 2022, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (04): 55-61.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210504907

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Development and performance evaluation of knitted fabric with bionic bird feather structure

WANG Jianping1,2,3,4, MIAO Mingzhu1,2, SHEN Deyao1,2, YAO Xiaofeng1,2()   

  1. 1. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    3. Shanghai Belt and Road Joint Laboratory of Textile Intelligent Manufacturing, Shanghai 200051, China
    4. Shanghai Institute of International Design & Innovation, Tongji University, Shanghai 200092, China
  • Received:2021-05-19 Revised:2022-01-16 Online:2022-04-15 Published:2022-04-20
  • Contact: YAO Xiaofeng E-mail:yxf@dhu.edu.cn

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Abstract:

In order to improve the wear comfort of domestic ski warm pants and shorten the gap between domestic ski wear research and development technology and foreign brands, the effect of bionic bird feather structure on the thermal and wet properties of knitted fabrics was investigated. Eight types of bionic knitted fabrics with different structures were developed according to the microstructure characteristics of feathers by combining bionics and jacquard design techniques. Based on the comparison of thermal resistance, heat preservation rate, moisture permeability, air permeability and warp and weft core suction height, the gray near-optimal matrix was established to further evaluate the thermal and wet properties of the fabrics. The application suggestions of each fabric were put forward based on the thermal and wet map of male lower extremities. The results show that groove-like type Ⅰ, bionic feather sheet fabrics have good water absorption, and bionic feather twig, bionic pinnule, and groove-like type Ⅱ fabrics have excellent warmth retention. The air permeability of hollow bubble-like type Ⅰ and type Ⅱ fabrics is outstanding.

Key words: bionic structure, bird feather structure, knitted fabric development, gray near-optimal method, fabric thermal and wet property, ski wear

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.19

Fig.1

Microstructure images of feather. (a) Full plume(×200); (b) Plade (×582); (c) Pllets (×2 640); (d) Plume axis(×50); (e) Cross section of plume branch axis(×100); (f) Cross section of plume branch axis (×500)"

Fig.2

Organization diagram of bionic bird feather fabric. (a) Bionic feather axis; (b) Bionic feather sheet; (c)Groove-like type I;(d) Groove-like type Ⅱ; (e)Bionic plade; (f)Bionic pllets;(g) Hollow bubble-like I; (h) Hollow bubble-like Ⅱ"

Fig.3

Bionic bird feather fabric. (a)Bionic feather axis; (b) Bionic feather sheet; (c)Groove-like type Ⅰ;(d) Groove-like type Ⅱ; (e)Bionic plade;(f)Bionic pllets; (g) Hollow bubble-like type Ⅰ;(h) Hollow bubble-like typeⅡ"

Tab.1

Fabric specifications and structural parameters"

试样名称 面密度/
(g·m-2)		 厚度/
mm		 密度/(线圈数·(5 cm)-1)
横向 纵向
1#仿羽轴 477 1.91 98 100
2#仿羽片 297 0.97 99 118
3#凹槽Ⅰ类 390 1.84 92 108
4#凹槽Ⅱ类 485 2.20 96 86
5#仿羽枝 461 1.93 99 112
6#仿羽小枝 532 2.51 95 145
7#空泡状Ⅰ类 431 2.39 86 150
8#空泡状Ⅱ类 486 2.42 95 165

Tab.2

Fabric performance test results"

试样名称 热阻/(m2·K·W-1) 保温率/% 透气率/(mm·s-1) 透湿率/
(g·m-2·(24 h)-1)		 芯吸高度/cm
纵向 横向
1#仿羽轴 54.85 50.29 129.983 637.1 3.75 6.75
2#仿羽片 38.39 41.46 88.224 701.6 6.05 6.75
3#凹槽Ⅰ类 52.96 49.42 90.352 639.7 6.91 8.25
4#凹槽Ⅱ类 65.28 54.63 111.937 626.3 4.71 6.25
5#仿羽枝 65.36 54.66 128.644 647.8 4.44 6.58
6#仿羽小枝 78.92 58.28 131.873 646.9 6.36 5.90
7#空泡状Ⅰ类 58.73 52.00 151.199 686.4 5.73 6.20
8#空泡状Ⅱ类 62.29 53.47 144.231 680.0 5.32 6.40

Fig.4

Pattern Structure division. (a) Front side; (b) Back side"

Fig.5

Weaving process diagram of trouser suit"

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