Journal of Textile Research ›› 2022, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (07): 129-134.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210701606

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Structural design and modeling of low-waste weft knitting fully fashioned female vests

DONG Zhijia(), SUN Fei, CONG Honglian, YU Xuliang   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2021-07-03 Revised:2021-10-13 Online:2022-07-15 Published:2022-07-29

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Abstract:

In order to reduce the waste of raw materials and production energy consumption in producing weft-knit vests, the female tight-fitting short vest was taken as the object for research and development, involving structural modeling and processing experiment. The traditional weft knitting fully fashioned vest was produced longitudinally with shoulder width transformed into transverse rectangular shoulder width, whilst the vest was divided into regions according to function specifications which were fabricated with different seamless structures to achieve the desired properties. Through virtual simulation and parameter visualization, the values for the partition structures were able to be readjusted. Material waste comparison was carried out between the new and conventional methods. The results show that by transforming the structure of the weft knitting fully fashioned vest and performing functional partitioning, visual modeling and adjusting the process parameters, the production of weft knitting fully fashioned female vests with low material waste and high efficiency are achieved, which offers reference ideas for transformation and energy-saving product development of similar products.

Key words: low waste process, weft knitting fully fashioned garment, structural design, virtual simulation, functional partition, vests

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.19

Fig.1

Tensile force analysis of knitted stitch"

Fig.2

Schematic diagram of shoulder strap before and after conversion"

Fig.3

Structure diagram of seamless vest template. (a) Longitudinal woven shoulder strap; (b) Horizontal woven shoulder strap"

Fig.4

Vest style drawing. (a) Front; (b) Back"

Fig.5

Structure diagram of functional partition template"

Tab.1

Numerical table of each partition"

区域
编号		 横向意匠
格数/个		 纵向意匠
格数/个		 实际横向
长度/cm		 实际纵向
长度/cm
A1 216 233 9.6 5.2
A2 216 204 9.6 4.6
A3 228 161 10.2 3.6
A4 97 429 4.3 9.6
A5 164 679 7.3 15.2
B1 160 604 7.1 13.5
C1 583 175 26.0 3.9
C2 215 453 9.6 10.1
C3 1 344 175 60.0 3.9
D1 295 573 13.2 12.8
E1 208 265 9.3 5.9
E2 59 489 2.6 10.9
E3 56 401 2.5 9.0
E4 162 679 7.2 15.2
F1 180 549 8.0 12.3
F2 210 679 9.4 15.2
F3 315 290 14.0 6.5

Fig.6

Weft knitted stiches"

Fig.7

Feature region division of human model"

Fig.8

Simulation diagram of vest sleeve"

Fig.9

Vest picture. (a) Front; (b) Side; (c) Back"

Tab.2

Data table of vest structurecm"

结构要素 结构参数 下机尺寸 成品尺寸 穿着尺寸
下围织带 围度 65 60 73
织带层数 2 2 2
织带宽度 2.8 2.2 2.5
罩杯 围度 67 61 84
肩带 肩带宽度 4.7 3.5 4
肩带层数 2 2 2
侧比 侧比高度 12.3 10 11
夹弯 夹弯前弧纵 7.5 6.8 7.6
夹弯前弧横 8.4 7.5 8.7
夹弯后弧纵 8.6 7.4 7.8
夹弯后弧横 11.5 10.3 11.4
背部结构 后中心高度 21.6 19.3 23
鸡心 前中心高度 17.4 15.2 17

Tab.3

Number of pixels in each process area of vest"

类别 各区域像素点/dpi
横向 纵向 裁耗区 裁剪线 缝合线
转化前 1 344 1 500 481 803 25 939 2 399
转化后 1 344 1 380 146 455 10 931 0
减少率/% 0 8 69.6 57.9 100

Tab.4

Manufacturing process table of vest"

类别 原料质
量/g		 织造时
间/min		 裁剪时
间/min		 缝合时
间/min		 包边时
间/min		 裁耗区
质量/g
转化前 63.98 3.13 0.6 0.2 3 17.4
转化后 58.86 2.89 0.3 0 2 5.76
减少率/% 8 7.7 50 100 33.5 69.6
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