Journal of Textile Research ›› 2022, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (10): 53-57.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210807605

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

New measurement method for fabric multi-directional bending performance

LIU Chengxia1,2,3(), ZHANG Yaqi2   

  1. 1. Zhejiang Province Engineering Laboratory of Clothing Digital Technology, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou,Zhejiang 310018, China
    2. School of Fashion Design & Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou,Zhejiang 310018, China
    3. Key Laboratory of Silk Culture Heritage and Products Design Digital Technology,Ministry of Culture and Tourism, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
  • Received:2021-08-19 Revised:2022-06-28 Online:2022-10-15 Published:2022-10-28

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Abstract:

Under the widely used testing method for fabric bending performance, only one result for one direction can be obtained by using one fabric. To investigate a testing method that can characterize fabric multi-directional bending performance simultaneously, 20 common fabrics were chosen and tested with the conventional method to obtain the bending length in the directions of 0°、90°、45°和135° by cutting the fabric sample into stripes along these four directions for testing. Correlation analysis was conducted between projection length and projection area with bending length. It was concluded that both the projection length and projection area have good correlation with bending length of the conventional method, with the coefficient about 0.95, which proves the new method can be used to characterize the bending properties of 0°、90°、45° and 135°. Two reading can be obtained in each direction, and therefore, it is more efficient and accurate than the conventional method. Besides, it can visualize fabric anisotropy in bending performance and display the testing stability of bending in one direction.

Key words: fabric, measurement for multi-directional bending performance, projection length, projection area, bending length

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.2

Tab.1

Fabric specification parameters"

织物
编号		 组织 成分
(含量)		 密度/(根·(10 cm)-1) 面密度/
(g·m-2)		 厚度/
mm
经向 纬向
1# 平纹 棉 580 290 128 0.16
2# 平纹 涤纶 560 320 109 0.22
3# 平纹 羊毛 420 380 101 0.18
4# 缎纹 涤纶 560 440 176 0.27
5# 平纹 亚麻/棉
(50/50)		 480 460 125 0.19
6# 平纹 粘胶 260 240 121 0.16
7# 斜纹 棉 380 270 182 0.34
8# 平纹 棉 600 500 104 0.11
9# 斜纹 粘胶 230 130 166 0.37
10# 斜纹 棉 510 290 218 0.39
11# 斜纹 涤纶/棉
(50/50)		 460 290 142 0.26
12# 缎纹 羊毛/涤纶
(65/35)		 450 280 118 0.18
13# 斜纹 羊毛/棉
(65/35)		 600 330 116 0.19
14# 缎纹 蚕丝/粘胶
(50/50)		 510 440 96 0.16
15# 斜纹 涤纶 420 390 136 0.26
16# 斜纹 亚麻/涤纶
(65/35)		 240 110 168 0.38
17# 斜纹 羊毛 270 220 132 0.24
18# 平纹 羊毛/粘胶
(70/30)		 470 260 92 0.22
19# 平纹 棉/粘胶
(80/20)		 640 270 124 0.18
20# 缎纹 涤纶 560 370 92 0.15

Fig.1

Shape of fabric sample"

Fig.2

Testing instrument"

Fig.3

Morphology of sagging fabric sample before(a) and after (b) pre-processing"

Tab.2

Testing results of fabric bending properties"

试样
编号		 投影面积/cm2 投影长度/cm 弯曲长度/mm
0° 90° 45° 135° 0° 90° 45° 135° 0° 90° 45° 135°
1# 2.91 1.29 2.35 1.59 2.63 1.17 2.15 1.52 23.47 16.57 20.60 18.57
2# 3.37 1.76 2.91 2.08 2.89 1.54 2.56 1.77 26.80 19.23 25.23 22.40
3# 2.08 1.23 1.75 1.25 1.93 1.11 1.62 1.13 18.07 16.63 17.40 15.50
4# 2.41 2.46 1.44 2.42 2.17 2.29 1.32 2.14 20.13 22.03 19.50 21.60
5# 3.52 1.46 2.55 1.96 3.17 1.37 2.47 1.75 26.77 17.90 21.97 18.67
6# 2.32 1.22 1.01 1.38 2.07 1.10 0.89 1.35 21.73 18.03 15.47 18.63
7# 2.87 1.08 2.06 1.39 3.06 1.06 2.13 1.29 28.80 17.87 22.70 19.53
8# 2.21 1.28 1.40 1.25 2.02 1.16 1.42 1.13 20.87 15.67 17.77 16.43
9 1.66 0.96 1.20 0.97 1.52 0.87 1.09 0.84 18.20 15.20 16.97 15.90
10# 2.99 3.01 2.64 2.49 2.30 2.94 2.50 2.22 23.77 24.63 24.50 25.23
11# 1.74 0.82 0.79 0.98 1.68 0.78 0.81 0.95 18.23 14.53 13.80 15.53
12# 1.94 0.96 1.64 1.13 1.78 0.90 1.51 0.99 18.77 16.10 18.53 15.07
13# 1.38 0.72 0.78 0.92 1.22 0.67 0.68 0.84 18.77 13.90 15.00 17.10
14# 2.14 1.20 1.47 1.26 1.96 1.09 1.41 1.15 20.00 16.67 19.07 17.03
15# 2.73 0.92 1.02 1.05 2.49 0.75 0.88 0.87 22.43 14.03 16.37 14.83
16# 3.43 1.46 2.78 2.47 3.05 1.45 2.72 2.38 27.83 20.23 25.43 21.40
17# 1.57 2.67 2.10 1.41 1.42 2.38 1.93 1.23 17.97 24.60 20.90 18.00
18# 3.86 0.61 0.82 1.09 3.54 0.49 0.60 0.94 31.10 12.13 13.73 17.07
19# 2.01 2.50 1.17 1.14 1.78 2.25 1.01 0.98 19.90 20.57 16.47 17.50
20# 2.61 1.52 1.36 1.27 2.32 1.33 1.25 1.12 20.03 20.50 18.93 17.73

Tab.3

Results of fabrics bending performance"

丝缕角度/
(°)		 投影长度相关性 投影面积相关性
0° 90° 45° 135° 0° 90° 45° 135°
0 0.972** 0.026 0.483* 0.538* 0.917** 0.035 0.474* 0.494*
90 0.113 0.995** 0.435 0.568** 0.107 0.931** 0.509* 0.656**
45 0.442 0.487* 0.991** 0.755** 0.430 0.564** 0.954** 0.677**
135 0.440 0.656** 0.756** 0.991** 0.416 0.668** 0.803** 0.892**

Fig.4

Relationship between projection length and bending length"

Fig.5

Relationship between projection area and bending length"

Fig.6

Projection shape of different fabrics"

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