Journal of Textile Research ›› 2022, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (10): 133-140.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210808508

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Methods for converting 3-D styles to 2-D patterns for fully formed garments

LU Lisha, JIANG Gaoming()   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University,Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2021-08-23 Revised:2022-06-22 Online:2022-10-15 Published:2022-10-28
  • Contact: JIANG Gaoming E-mail:jgm@jiangnan.edu.cn

RichHTML

11

PDF (PC)

83

Abstract:

In order to further understand the knitting principle of whole garments and develop more styles with different shapes, this work investigated the conversion principles from 3-D style to 2-D patterns considering the theory, mathematical model and conversion process. Conversion methods of different types of garments from 3-D style to 2-D patterns were considered based on double-layer structure, three-layer structure and four-layer structure. Taking five typical styles as examples, the 2-D pattern design and knitting practice were carried out using the SDS-ONE APEX3 system and a four-bed computerized flat knitting machine. The results show that the front and back pieces of the 2-D patterns of the garments with double-layer structure are determined by the side seam and the centerline respectively depending on whether the width of the front and back pieces of 3-D style are equal or not. The 2-D pattern of the garments with three-layer structure are to be determined by dividing in the back centerline or armholes, or unfolding on the side seam and placket based on whether the 3-D style contains sleeves. The connecting position of the inner and outer layers of the garments with the four-layer structure should be located at the collar, waist and other special parts.

Key words: fully formed garment, 3-D style, 2-D pattern, conversion method, knitting process

CLC Number: 

  • TS106.6

Fig.1

Sketch of converting 3-D style to 2-D pattern. (a) 3-D style; (b) Front and back pieces on flat machine; (c) 2-D pattern"

Fig.2

Flow chart converting 3-D style to 2-D pattern"

Fig.3

Style types of fully formed garments. (a) Double-layer structure; (b)Three-layer structure; (c) Four-layer structure"

Fig.4

Conversion process from 3-D style with equal width in front and back pieces to 2-D pattern by longitudinal knitting. (a) 3-D style; (b)Front and back pieces on flat machine; (c) 2-D pattern"

Tab.1

Size corresponding relationship between 3-D style with equal width in front and back pieces and 2-D pattern by longitudinal knitting"

参数 符号 三维款式尺寸/cm 二维样板尺寸/线圈数
前片 后片 前片 后片
衣长 L L L L × c/10 L × c/10
胸围 B B/2 B/2 B/2 × w/10 B/2 × w/10
腰围 W W/2 W/2 W/2 × w/10 W/2 × w/10
下摆 H H/2 H/2 H/2 × w/10 H/2 × w/10
袖长 S S S S × c/10 S × c/10
袖口围 C C/2 C/2 C/2 × w/10 C/2 × w/10
后领宽 N — N — N × w/10
前领深 D D — D × c/10 —

Fig.5

Conversion process from 3-D style with equal width in front and back pieces to 2-D pattern by horizontal knitting. (a) Front and back pieces on flat machine; (b) 2-D pattern"

Tab.2

Size corresponding relationship between 3-D style with equal width in front and back pieces and 2-D pattern by horizontal knitting"

参数 符号 三维款式尺寸/
cm		 二维样板尺寸/
线圈数
前片 后片 前片 后片
衣长 L L L (2 × S + B/2)×
c/10		 (2 × S + B/2)×
c/10
胸围 B B/2 B/2 B/2 × c/10 B/2 × c/10
腰围 W W/2 W/2 W/2 × c/10 W/2 × c/10
下摆 H H/2 H/2 H/2 × c/10 H/2 × c/10
袖长 S S S S × c/10 S × c/10
袖口围 C C/2 C/2 C/2 × w/10 C/2 × w/10
后领宽 N — N — N × c/10
前领深 D D — D × w/10 —

Fig.6

Conversion process from 3-D style with unequal width in front and back pieces to 2-D pattern. (a) 3-D style; (b) Front and back pieces on flat machine; (c) 2-D pattern"

Tab.3

Size corresponding relationship between 3-D style with unequal width in front and back pieces and 2-D pattern"

参数 符号 三维款式尺寸/
cm		 二维样板尺寸/
线圈数
前片 后片 前片 后片
衣长 L L L L × c/10 L × c/10
胸围 B B/2+x B/2 (B+x)/2 × w/10 (B+x)/2 × w/10
腰围 W W/2+x W/2 (W+x)/2 × w/10 (W+x)/2 × w/10
下摆 H H/2+x H/2 (H+x)/2 × w/10 (H+x)/2 × w/10
袖窿深 A A A A × c/10 A × c/10
领高 N N N N × c/10 N × c/10

Fig.7

Conversion process from 3-D style without sleeves to 2-D pattern. (a) 3-D style; (b) 2-D pattern 1;(c) 2-D pattern 2; (d) 2-D pattern 3"

Tab.4

Size corresponding relationship between 3-D style without sleeves and 2-D pattern"

参数 符
号		 三维款式
尺寸/cm		 二维样板尺寸/线圈数
前片 后片 方法一 方法二/方法三
前片 后片
衣长 L L L L × c/10 L × c/10 L × c/10
胸围 B B/2 B/2 (B + 2 ×C)×
w/10		 (B/2+2 ×C)×
w/10		 B/2 ×
w/10
腰围 W W/2 W/2 (W +2 × C)×
w/10		 (W/2+2 × C)×
w/10		 W/2 ×
w/10
下摆 H H/2 H/2 H × w/10 H/2 × w/10 H/2 × w/10
翻领宽 C C — — — —

Fig.8

Conversion process from 3-D style with sleeves to 2-D pattern. (a) 3-D style; (b) Separate left and right;(c) Separate body and sleeves; (d) Front and back pieces on flat machine; (e) 2-D pattern of right"

Tab.5

Size corresponding relationship between 3-D style with sleeves and 2-D pattern"

参数 符号 三维款式尺寸/cm 二维样板尺寸/线圈数
前片 后片 前片 后片
衣长 L L L L×c/10 L×c/10
胸围 B B/2 B/2 (B/2+ C) × w/10 B/2 ×
w/10
腰围 W W/2 W/2 (W/2+ C) × w/10 W/2 ×
w/10
下摆 H H/2 H/2 (H/2+ C) × w/10 H/2 ×
w/10
门襟宽 C C C - -
袖长 S S S S × c/10 S × c/10
袖口围 T T T T/2 × w/10 T/2 × w/10
后领宽 N N×w/10 N× w/10
前领深 D D D ×c/10 D D × c/10

Fig.9

Conversion process from 3-D style with four-layer structure to 2-D pattern. (a) 3-D style; (b) Front piece and back piece on flat machine; (c) 2-D pattern"

Tab.6

Size corresponding relationship between 3-D style with four-layer structure and 2-D pattern"

参数 符号 三维款式尺寸/cm 二维样板尺寸/线圈数
前片 后片 前片 后片
衣长 L L L (L+D) × c/10 (L+D)×c/10
胸围 B B/2 B/2 B/2 × w/10 B/2 × w/10
腰围 W W/2 W/2 W/2 × w/10 W/2 × w/10
下摆 H H/2 H/2 H/2 × w/10 H/2 × w/10
翻领宽 T T T T × w/10 T × w/10
翻领高 D D D D × c/10 D × c/10
后领宽 N N N N × w/10 N × w/10

Fig.10

Physical pictures of fully formed garments with different structures. (a) Double-layer structure with equal width in front and back pieces;(b) Double-layer structure with unequal width in front and back pieces;(c) Three-layer structure without sleeves; (d) Three-layer structure with sleeves; (e) Four-layer structure"

[1] CHOI W, POWELL N B. The development of specialized knitted structures in the creation of resist-dyed fabrics and garments[J]. Journal of The Textile Institute, 2008, 99(3): 253-264.
doi: 10.1080/00405000701404247
[2] 彭佳佳, 蒋高明, 丛洪莲, 等. 全成形毛衫的结构与编织原理[J]. 纺织学报, 2017, 38(11):48-55.
PENG Jiajia, JIANG Gaoming, CONG Honglian, et al. Structure and knitting principle of whole garment[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2017, 38(11):48-55.
[3] 祝细. 电脑横机织可穿针织服装的编织工艺及其性能研究[D]. 天津: 天津工业大学, 2011: 58-62.
ZHU Xi. Research of the knitting process and performance for knit & wear clothes on the domestic computerized flat knitting[D]. Tianjin: Tiangong University, 2011: 58-62.
[4] 邱庄岩, 吴志明, 蒋高明. 全成形毛衫肩袖成形工艺[J]. 纺织学报, 2018, 39(3): 56-60,66.
QIU Zhuangyan, WU Zhiming, JIANG Gaoming. Forming process of shoulder and sleeves of whole garment[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2018, 39(3): 56-60,66.
[5] 陈曦, 缪旭红, 牛丽, 等. 全成形平肩袖毛衫袖身连接工艺分段设计[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(9):76-80.
CHEN Xi, MIAO Xuhong, NIU Li, et al. Sleeve-body connection technique for segmentation design of whole-garment flat-sleeve sweaters[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(9):76-80.
[6] 路丽莎, 蒋高明, 罗璇. 全成形毛衫腋下拼角编织工艺及性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(2):69-70.
LU Lisha, JIANG Gaoming, LUO Xuan. Knitting process and properties analysis of under arm stitching of fully-fashioned garment[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(2):69-70.
[7] MAHBUB Rana, WANG Lijing, ARNOLD Lyndon. Design of knitted three-dimensional seamless female body armour vests[J]. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 2014, 7(3): 198-207.
doi: 10.1080/17543266.2014.956152
[8] 杨卫平. 全成形毛衫的结构与编织工艺研究[D]. 上海: 东华大学, 2016:20-47.
YANG Weiping. Investigation on structure and knitting technology of fully fashioned sweater[D]. Shanghai: Donghua University, 2016:20-47.
[9] 王敏, 丛洪莲, 蒋高明, 等. 四针床电脑横机的全成形工艺[J]. 纺织学报, 2017, 38(4): 61-67.
WANG Min, CONG Honglian, JIANG Gaoming, et al. Whole garment knitting process on four-bed computerized flat knitting machine[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2017, 38(4): 61-67.
[10] 唐雨洁. 基于全成形工艺的孕妇毛衫设计[D]. 无锡: 江南大学, 2019:19-21,35-42.
TANG Yujie. Design of pregnant women's sweaters based on full forming technology[D]. Wuxi: Jiangnan University, 2019:19-21,35-42.
[11] 刘婕羽. 国产电脑横机全成型连衣裙结构工艺研究[D]. 北京: 北京服装学院, 2019:37-144.
LIU Jieyu. Research on full forming structure technology of domestic computerized flat knitting machine[D]. Beijing: Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, 2019:37-144.
[12] 刘博. 全成形针织休闲西服的工艺研究[D]. 无锡: 江南大学, 2020:40-65.
LIU Bo. Process research of whole-garment knitted casual suits[D]. Wuxi: Jiangnan University, 2020:40-65.
[13] 王盼, 吴志明. 全成形毛衫横向编织方式及其成形工艺[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(10):73-77.
WANG Pan, WU Zhiming. Transverse knitting method and forming process of fully formed sweater[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(10):73-77.
[14] 李珂, 吴志明. 全成形毛衫C形编织工艺与应用[J]. 上海纺织科技, 2018, 46(4):12-16.
LI Ke, WU Zhiming. Knitting process and application of whole garment sweater of C-knitting[J]. Shanghai Textile Science & Technology, 2018, 46(4):12-16.
[1] XU Yanhua, YUAN Xinlin. Application of paper pattern technology in knitting process of fully formed inclined skirt [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2022, 43(10): 141-147.
[2] CHEN Xi, MIAO Xuhong, LIU Qing, DONG Zhijia. Knitting process design of fully-fashioned Y-shaped three-way pipe fabrics [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2021, 42(05): 73-78.
[3] ZHAN Biqin, CONG Honglian, WU Guangjun. Research and application of process modeling of single-piece double-layer knitted garments [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2021, 42(03): 149-154.
[4] ZHAO Boyu, LIANG Xinhua, CONG Honglian. Structural modeling and process practice of three-dimensional fully fashioned face masks woven by computerized flat knitting machine [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(12): 59-65.
[5] DAI Ning, PENG Laihu, HU Xudong, CUI Ying, ZHONG Yaosen, WANG Yuefeng. Natural frequency characterization based on Euler-Bernoulli beam theory on knitting seamless underwear [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(12): 144-150.
[6] LU Lisha, JIANG Gaoming, LUO Xuan. Knitting process and properties analysis of underarm stitching of fully-fashioned garment [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(02): 69-75.
[7] . Application of paper pattern technology in knitting process of unconventional wool knitted apparel style [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2016, 37(08): 107-113.
[8] . Application of paper folding and molding in pattern desing of sweater [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2016, 37(05): 110-116.
[9] WANG Yanzhen. Digital principles for identification of garment styles [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2007, 28(12): 94-98.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited
  Shared   
  Discussed   
No Suggested Reading articles found!
京ICP备14006648号
Copyright 2021 © Editorial office of Journal of Textile Research
Supported by Beijing Magtech Co.Ltd