Journal of Textile Research ›› 2023, Vol. 44 ›› Issue (03): 132-138.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211203107

• Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Color characteristics of Qianlong palette based on chromaticity measurement

SU Miao1,2(), ZHOU Kaili1,2, DUAN Yiting3, LU Jialiang1,2, YANG Limei1,2   

  1. 1. College of Textile Science and Engineering(International Institute of Silk), Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
    2. International Center for Silk and Silk Road Studies, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
    3. School of Design, University of Leeds, Leeds LS2 9JT, UK
  • Received:2021-12-15 Revised:2022-12-21 Online:2023-03-15 Published:2023-04-14

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Abstract:

Objective In order to gain more accurate and scientific understanding of the color of Qing dynasty silk cultural relics, this research attempts to analyze the color data of Qianlong palette from the perspective of chromaticity, and to provide a reference for the exhibition and digitalization of Qing dynasty silk cultural relics.

Method The Qianlong palette were measured with spectrophotometer CM700D, and then the color difference caused by the change of dye concentration and the stability of Qianlong palette were discussed. The colors of Qianlong palette were analyzed in L*a*b* color space. By comparing the color gamut of Qianlong palette with that of sRGB, Adobe RGB and CMYK, the possibility of color restoration in the digitalization of silk relics in the Qing dynasty was analyzed.

Results It is found that when dye concentration increased, the lightness of all Qianlong palette colors decreased, but the change of chroma was inconsistent, where the chroma of green and purple decreased and the chroma of red increased (Tab. 2). In addition, when the dye concentration is increased uniformly, the color difference does not change uniformly. When the dye concentration changes, the green system of the Qianlong palette is greatly affected by the dye concentration, while the yellow system is less affected by the dye concentration. The average color difference between yellows dyed with different dye concentrations is less than 3 (Fig.2). Three repeated measurements of Qianlong palette within five months showed that Qianlong palette was stable within half a year under the natural conditions used for this study. In 42 colors Qianlong palette, the range of a* is from -18 to 47, and the range of b* is from -22 to 74, while in the extended 210 colors Qianlong palette, the range of a* is from -18 to 47, and the range of b* is from -23 to 78 (Fig.3). Comparing 42 colors Qianlong palette with 210 colors Qianlong palette, it was found that for the same dyeing process, changing only the dye concentration cannot broaden the maximum parameter range of a* and b*, but it greatly enriches the number of colors within the parameter range. In addition, it was found that there is an obvious color loss in the third quadrant of a*b* diagram. Converting (L*, a*, b*) to (L*, C*, h), it can be seen that the hue of missing color is in range of 170°—240°(Fig.4), revealing the comparison results between the Qianlong color gamut and sRGB, Adobe RGB and CMYK. Most of the colors of the Qianlong palette are in these three color gamut, but some high chroma and lightness yellow colors exceed the gamut (Fig.5). The number of colors beyond Adobe RGB is small, and the number of yellow colors beyond sRGB is the largest, accounting for 38% of the yellow system.

Conclusion The yellow of Qianlong palette is less affected by the dye concentration, while the green is more affected by the dye concentration, and it would be more likely to make mistakes when dyeing green in Qing dynasty. In the silk cultural relics handed down in the Qing Dynasty, if the color recorded on the two fabrics is green, but the colors look different, it is necessary to consider not only the possibility of fading, but also the possible deviation in dyeing at that time. In addition, the Qianlong palette has an approximate range of a*, b* values, the color beyond this range was proven to be difficult to achieve in the Qing dynasty. Through strict color management and color, most of the silk relics of the Qing dynasty can display colors correctly in sRGB, Adobe RGB and CMYK. However, part of the high lightness and high chroma yellows of Qianlong palette are out of the gamut of sRGB, Adobe RGB and CMYK. Therefore, the color of these handed down silk relics of the Qing dynasty with yellow background may be distorted when they are displayed online, so it is suggested that these relics be displayed offline.

Key words: silk cultural relic, Qianlong palette, traditional dyeing, textile color, color management

CLC Number: 

  • TS141

Fig.1

Qianlong palette with 210 colors. (a) Group 1;(b)Group 2;(c)Group 3; (d) Group 4;(e)Group 5"

Tab.1

Dyes and chromatic values of Qianlong palette with 42 colors"

编号 名称 染料 L* a* b* 编号 名称 染料 L* a* b*
1 栀子黄 栀子 76 4 57 22 砂绿 靛青、黄檗 48 -17 17
2 橙黄 红花、姜黄 71 7 71 23 松绿 靛青、槐子、大黄 43 11 39
3 葵黄 黄檗 78 -5 59 24 水绿 大黄、黄檗、靛青 48 -15 8
4 明黄 槐子 74 3 74 25 官绿 靛青、槐子、大黄 44 -10 36
5 杏黄 槐子、黄栌 68 11 65 26 豆绿 靛青、黄檗、大黄 44 -18 15
6 柿黄 槐子、黄栌 65 16 64 27 瓜皮绿 靛青、槐子、大黄 32 -12 20
7 金黄 槐子、黄栌 63 18 65 28 军绿 槐子、苏木 53 2 31
8 米色 栀子、红花 69 20 40 29 月白 靛青、大黄 40 -8 -19
9 驼色 黄栌、橡碗子、红花 64 16 25 30 宝蓝 靛青、大黄 39 -7 -22
10 将军黄 槐子、苏木 44 6 24 31 深蓝 靛青、大黄 32 -6 -22
11 秋香 槐子 25 3 11 32 红青 靛青、大黄 26 -3 -20
12 古铜 槐子、黄栌、苏木 25 7 9 33 石青 靛青、大黄 23 -1 -19
13 酱色 槐子、黄栌、苏木 20 6 4 34 元青 靛青、大黄 20 0 -6
14 水红 红花 59 42 17 35 元青 靛青、橡碗子、五倍子、大黄 19 0 -2
15 锈红 苏木、姜黄 61 27 29 36 紫红 靛青、红花 42 27 6
16 粉色 红花 73 19 4 37 真紫 靛青、红花 40 22 0
17 粉红 苏木 58 33 10 38 青莲紫 靛青、红花 34 16 -4
18 枣红 苏木 36 43 24 39 藕荷紫 靛青、红花 43 12 -12
19 桃红 红花 57 43 21 40 铁色紫 靛青、红花 38 20 3
20 鱼红 红花、黄檗 56 41 32 41 黑色 红花、橡碗子 31 2 -2
21 大红 红花 54 47 24 42 灰色 橡碗子、红花 35 3 -2

Tab.2

Change of chroma with increase of dye concentration"

彩度
变化		 颜色数量/个
黄色系 红色系 蓝色系 绿色系 紫色系 黑灰色
增加 6 7 2 0 0 0
减小 6 0 3 7 4 0
无规律 1 1 2 0 1 2

Fig.2

Average color difference of different color series after dye concentration change"

Tab.3

Color difference statistics from April to September"

项目 4月-6月 6月-9月 4月-9月
最大值 1.82 2.62 3.93
最小值 0.03 0.10 0.04
平均值 0.30 0.67 0.79

Fig.3

Distribution of Qianlong palette with 42 (a) and 210 (b) colors in a*b* diagram"

Fig.4

Distribution of Qianlong palette with 210 colors in L* h diagram"

Fig.5

CIE-xy chromaticity diagram. (a)Total graph; (b) Detail graph"

Tab.4

Color information out of sRGB gamut"

色名 L* C* h/(°) 色名 L* C* h/(°)
橙黄2 73 69 87 柿黄1 67 68 79
橙黄3 71 72 84 柿黄2 67 68 77
橙黄4 70 74 82 柿黄3 67 66 76
橙黄5 68 77 80 柿黄4 67 71 75
明黄2 74 74 88 柿黄5 67 71 75
明黄3 74 74 88 金黄1 67 67 76
明黄4 74 71 88 金黄2 67 67 75
明黄5 74 71 88 金黄3 67 67 74
杏黄1 70 68 82 金黄4 67 67 74
杏黄2 69 68 81 金黄5 62 67 73
杏黄5 67 71 79
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