Journal of Textile Research ›› 2023, Vol. 44 ›› Issue (04): 154-164.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220105911

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Clothing development based on flexible selective laser sintering 3D printing technology

GU Liwen1, RUAN Yanwen2(), LI Hao3   

  1. 1. Shanghai International College of Fashion and Innovation, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    2. School of Textiles and Fashion, Shanghai University of Engineering Science, Shanghai 201602, China
    3. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
  • Received:2022-01-25 Revised:2022-11-01 Online:2023-04-15 Published:2023-05-12

Abstract:

Objective Flexible and complex 3-D structure forming is one of the main difficulties of concern in the field of clothing 3D printing technology. The selective laser sintering (SLS) process and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) materials have obvious advantages in addressing this difficulty. However, there is a lack of more systematic research on the 3D printing clothing development process based on this technology combination. This study carry out an empirical research which combines case studies and summaries of universal problems to address this issue.
Method As the initial attempt, a digital model of a 3D printed corset was designed and generated by comprehensive usage of the soft-ware including DAZ 3D, Blender, CLO and Materialise Magics. Then, the study produced a physical model of a flexible 3D printed corset with wearability by using an EOS P700 3D printer and TPU powder material. Eventually, the development process of this case was designed and generated in detail, from which extracted a universal 3D printing clothing development process.
Results The produced flexible 3D printing corset was made of the TPU material with Shore hardness of 88A and has a maximum wall thickness of 4 mm, resulting in a clothing with good shaping ability as well as the expected flexibility, which contains complex 3-D structures such as layered, overhang and hollow for testing the capabilities of SLS-TPU technology in the forming of complex 3-D structures(Fig. 11). A rear central non through-body invisible zipper placket was used to enable the clothing to be put on and taken off(Fig. 7), which was divided into upper and lower parts with a waist division line and is manufactured separately, and assembled together with boss-groove structure and a sewing process by using 0.12 mm transparent nylon wire(Fig. 6, Fig. 8). The universal process of 3D printing clothing based on SLS process, TPU material and thin wall structure obtained through this study includes 5 major steps, which are digital 3-D base model modelling, digital 3D printing model modeling, digital 3D printing model data preparation, physical 3D printing model manufacturing, and physical 3D printing model post-processing, as well as the 20 sub-steps under them(Tab. 1). The fourth step was not discussed in detail because the work was carried out by a third party manufacturer.
Conclusion The study shows that the initial shape of the 3-D digital model, the fit between the hardness of the TPU material and the wall thickness of the model have a significant impact on the variable and flexible shape of the 3D printed clothing, and also demon-strates the feasibility of using the sewing process for piecing together 3D printed models of clothing. The study proposed a series of solutions for 5 key generic issues in this case development process, including 1) the initial shape setting of the digital clothing 3-D base model, 2) the setting of the clothing 3D printed model's wall thickness and material hardness, 3) the matching of the clothing 3D structure to the 3D printing process, 4) the design of the 3D printing clothing putting on and taking off method, and 5) the disassembly and assembly of the clothing 3D printing model. In the future, the various steps of the clothing 3D printing process involved in this study can be studied in more depth in terms of material performance, process technology, cost control and sustainability by using quantitative measurements and lateral comparisons.

Key words: cloth, 3D printing, additive manufacturing, thermoplastic polyurethane, selective laser sintering, thin-walled structure

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.26

Fig. 1

Generation division of clothing 3D printing technology. (a) Generation 1st; (b) Generation 2nd; (c) Generation 3rd: thin-walled geometry, (d) Generation 3rd: continuous fiber type geometry; (e) Generation 4th"

Fig. 2

Design illustration of corset works. (a) Front; (b) Back"

Fig. 3

Digital corset base model modeling process through CLO. (a) Digital 2D pattern creating; (b) Digital 3D pattern sewing relation establishment of corresponding edges; (c) Digital 3D pattern sewing completing"

Fig. 4

Parameter of the digital corset 3D base model's fabric physical property in CLO"

Fig. 5

Process of relief structure modeling model and wall thickness adding"

Fig. 6

Detail of the corset 3D Print model seam line assembling structure. (a) Corset model; (b) Corset model's exploded views; (c) Section of corset model's exploded views; (d) Section of seam line assembling structure"

Fig. 7

Placket of corset 3D Print model. (a) Outside of half placket with 1 mm gap in between; (b) Inside of half placket with a groove structure opens inwardly; (c) Top of groove inside placket; (d) Bottom of groove inside placket; (e) Gap for inserting invisible zipper's tape"

Fig. 8

Physical corset 3D Print model seam line and assembling effect. (a) Model-back view; (b) Model-front view"

Tab. 1

Design developing flow summary in this study"

步骤 细分步骤 工具
胸衣3D基底
数字模型建模
1 三维数字人体模特创建并导入CLO DAZ
2 二维虚拟裁片绘制与三维虚拟缝合 CLO
3 面料物理属性设置
4 二维裁片基于三维模拟效果修正
5 模型网格分辨率提高
6 模型导出
胸衣3D打印
模型建模
1 胸衣基底模型导入、对称化,与网格拓扑结构转换 Blender
2 胸衣基底模型实际打印尺寸修正 Blender、
Magics
3 胸衣打印模型前部浮雕结构建模 Blender
4 胸衣打印模型壁厚添加与合并
5 胸衣打印模型分割①
6 胸衣打印模型拼接结构建模
7 胸衣打印模型门襟结构建模
胸衣3D打印
模型数据准备
1 模型修复 Magics
2 模型分割②
3 模型摆放③
4 模型切片(第三方企业承接)
胸衣3D打印
实物模型制造
第三方企业承接 EOS P700
胸衣3D打印
模型后加工
1 模型拼接 锦纶线、
手缝针
2 配件(隐形拉链)安装

Fig. 9

Cloth 3D model geometry and topology under dynamic simulation. (a) Cloth stable status; (b) Cloth variable status"

Fig. 10

Clothing dynamic simulation with different fabric properties in CLO. (a) Clothing stable 3D status-max stiffness/min elasticity; (b) Clothing variable 3D status 1: oganza fabric-high stiffness/low elasticity; (c) Clothing variable 3D status: 2-chiffon fabric-low stiffness/high elasticity"

Fig. 11

Complex 3D anaglyph structure on the front of the corset 3D Print model. (a) Physical model; (b) Digital model; (c) Section of Digital model; (d) Section of Digital model's complex 3-D structure"

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