Journal of Textile Research ›› 2023, Vol. 44 ›› Issue (12): 73-80.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221106901

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Influence of stitching method on color rendering of double-face full-color jacquard fabric

ZHANG Meng1(), BAI Linlin2, LI Xiaxin1, ZHOU Jiu1   

  1. 1. Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Clean Dyeing and Finishing Technology of Zhejiang Province, Shaoxing University, Shaoxing, Zhejiang 312000, China
  • Received:2022-11-24 Revised:2023-03-14 Online:2023-12-15 Published:2024-01-22

Abstract:

Objective In double-face jacquard fabric design under layered-combination design mode, the weave used in two-layer structure with self-stitching is compound full-color weave, and the one used in two-layer structure with central weft stitching is covered full-color weave. Grayscale difference exists between the two full-color weaves, and the color expression of double-face jacquard fabric is determined by the grayscale of full-color weave. Whether the color expression of double-face jacquard fabric will be influenced by stitching methods is the main problem in this paper. The purpose is to provide fabric designers with a better choice of stitching methods.
Method 3 sets of double-face jacquard fabric samples with self-stitching, central weft stitching, and central weft non-stitching were produced under the same technical specification, including yarn thickness, color, and yarn density on both sides of the fabric. The compound full-color weave and the covered full-color weave were designed with the same weave repeat (R) and enhancement of weave points (E) to ensure the test comparability. The fabrics were then tested for color influence by the color range, color transition uniformity and color differences.
Results There were 2R/E gray level differences between the compound full-color weave and covered full-color weave. On the fabrics, taking the 6 landmark lines with monochromatic gradient and two-color gradient as an example (Fig.4), the color ranges of the 2 sets of double-face jacquard fabrics with self-stitching and central weft stitching were slightly different. The color range differences between the 2 sets of fabric samples are shown in Tab.4 and Tab.5. All of the differences were in either acceptable or similar range. In terms of color transition, 24 landmark lines were among the 2 sets of double-face jacquard fabric samples, and the R2 values of the fitted lines of relevant color values were all greater than 0.7(Tab 6), with 18 of them greater than 0.9. That indicates that the face and back the 2 sets of double-face jacquard fabrics have a uniform transition, namely, the stitching methods have almost no influence on the color transition of double-face jacquard fabrics. In terms of the color difference on the fabric surface, the color difference values of corresponding color blocks were calculated between the fabric samples with self-stitching and central weft stitching(Tab.7 and Tab.8). The average color difference value of the face side was 3.10, and the average color difference value of the back side was 4.11, both of which were within the acceptable range. The color difference values of corresponding color blocks were calculated between the 2 sets of double-face jacquard fabric samples with central weft stitching and central weft non-stitching(Tab.9 and Tab.10). The average color difference values of the face and back sides were 1.48 and 0.77 respectively, which represent slight influences. It suggests that the central weft stitching method itself has slight influence on color rendering on the face and back sides of the double-face full-color jacquard fabric.
Conclusion To sum up, there is an acceptable or slight color range difference on the double-face jacquard fabric surface with different stitching methods. It has no significant influence on the uniformity of color transition, and the central weft stitching method does not have significant color influence on double-face jacquard fabrics. This indicates that designers have the freedom to choose the stitching method according to the product needs.

Key words: jacquard fabric, double-face fabric, self-stitching, central weft stitching, color rendering feature

CLC Number: 

  • TS105.1

Fig. 1

12-thread compound full-color weave. (a) Basic weave; (b) Joint weave"

Fig. 2

12-Thread covered full-color weave. (a) Covered full-color weave for surface layer; (b) Covered full-color weave for inner layer"

Tab. 1

Grayscale data of full-color weave"

组织
循环
全显色
组织
灰度级别
E=R E=R/2 E=R/4 E=1
12×12 组合 10 19 37 109
可遮盖 8 15 29 85
16×16 组合 14 27 53 209
可遮盖 12 23 45 177
20×20 组合 18 35 69 341
可遮盖 16 31 61 301
24×24 组合 22 43 85 505
可遮盖 20 39 77 457

Tab. 2

Technical specification of double-face fabric samples"

接结
方式
经纱 纬纱 组织
线密度 颜色 经密/
(根·cm-1)
线密度 颜色 纬密/
(根·cm-1)
自身
接结
5.56 tex
(48 f)
114 8.33 tex
(36 f)
红、蓝、
黄、绿
120 组合
全显色
组织
附加纬
接结
5.56 tex
(48 f)
114 8.33 tex
(36 f)
红、蓝、
黑、黄、
绿、黑
180 可遮盖
全显色
组织

Fig. 3

Double-face fabric sample with self-stitching. (a) Face side of fabric; (b) Back side of fabric"

Fig. 4

Double-face fabric sample with center weft stitching. (a) Face side of fabric; (b) Back side of fabric"

Tab. 3

Color value data of landmark color blocks on face and back sides of two fabric samples"

样品
名称
色块
编号
样品正反面色彩值
L* a* b*
附加纬
接结织
物样品
1-1 52.13 43.56 30.95 -18.63 41.41 -8.63
1-8 41.78 42.98 48.03 0.2 28.54 -27.13
8-1 65.57 52.29 11.76 -33.21 54.26 13.65
8-8 62.19 56.64 16.14 -10.32 20.67 -4.74
自身接
结织物
样品
1-1 53.77 44.28 29.73 -18.34 43.70 -8.83
1-10 45.32 44.12 47.71 0.57 26.80 -27.01
10-1 68.78 53.88 8.79 -32.06 54.91 12.24
10-10 66.24 61.12 12.64 -7.07 17.19 -4.58

Tab. 4

Color range data of landmark lines on face side"

接结方式 标志线呈色范围
1# 2# 3# 4# 5# 6#
自身接结 26.1 28.1 38.0 42.0 33.9 53.4
附加纬接结 23.8 26.7 34.0 38.7 27.4 50.4
差值绝对值 2.3 1.4 4 3.3 6.5 3.0

Tab. 5

Color range data of landmark lines on back side"

接结方式 标志线呈色范围
1# 2# 3# 4# 5# 6#
自身接结 26.2 26.9 31.0 29.2 20.7 52.0
附加纬接结 26.4 28.0 29.7 28.3 16.0 53.5
差值绝对值 0.2 1.1 1.3 0.9 4.7 1.5

Fig. 5

Chroma distribution of landmark line 4# on face side (a) Double-face fabric with self-stitching; (b) Double-face fabric with center weft stitching"

Fig. 6

Hue distribution of landmark line 6# on face side (a) Double-face fabric with self-stitching; (b) Double-face fabric with center weft stitching"

Tab. 6

Coefficient of determination of fitted lines about color values on 2 sets of double-face fabric samples"

织物面 接结方式 色值决定系数
1# 2# 3# 4# 5# 6#
正面 自身接结 0.85 0.99 0.92 0.94 0.98 0.95
附加纬接结 0.96 0.99 0.95 0.98 0.98 0.94
反面 自身接结 0.82 0.99 0.79 0.96 0.89 0.95
附加纬接结 0.72 0.95 0.79 0.91 0.95 0.98

Tab. 7

Chromatic aberration data on face sides of 2 sets of double-face fabric samples with self-stitching and center weft stitching"

红色纬纱
灰度级别
黄色纬纱灰度级别
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
1 3.06 3.27 3.07 5.66 4.48 2.47 2.22 2.18
2 1.62 1.71 2.85 2.13 6.65 4.12 2.56 2.68
3 2.18 2.79 4.29 3.38 2.74 2.44 2.29 2.68
4 1.19 4.17 6.76 5.36 3.05 5.19 6.80 1.48
5 2.00 2.84 6.20 5.91 2.06 1.91 2.54 2.92
6 1.45 1.40 2.21 4.50 4.08 1.11 2.53 2.82
7 0.43 1.36 1.27 2.13 4.91 5.78 4.51 3.41
8 2.20 1.08 1.44 3.40 1.60 5.18 2.54 3.21

Tab. 8

Chromatic aberration data on back sides of 2 sets double-face fabric samples with self-stitching and center weft stitching"

蓝色纬纱
灰度级别
绿色纬纱灰度级别
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
1 0.80 11.66 9.81 6.97 1.91 0.95 0.58 0.74
2 5.76 6.49 8.37 6.43 0.38 1.62 0.94 0.43
3 1.54 6.77 8.37 7.83 7.47 1.17 0.87 0.63
4 1.35 5.67 7.20 7.29 6.50 3.97 1.56 1.18
5 1.09 7.05 7.64 6.78 4.61 5.43 4.41 2.04
6 1.47 5.57 6.04 5.81 2.45 2.28 4.85 3.97
7 3.68 6.39 5.95 4.66 0.78 1.83 1.24 2.98
8 2.53 7.58 5.93 6.53 3.35 1.23 1.12 2.53

Tab. 9

Chromatic aberration data on face sides of 2 sets of double-face fabric samples with center weft stitching and center weft unstitching"

红色纬纱
灰度级别
黄色纬纱灰度级别
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
1 0.43 0.62 2.19 1.33 2.23 2.16 1.73 0.87
2 1.49 2.01 2.25 1.05 1.26 2.11 2.25 1.12
3 1.21 1.22 2.25 0.97 1.14 2.14 1.36 1.02
4 1.23 0.97 1.72 1.81 1.29 1.67 1.43 0.90
5 2.05 2.03 2.01 2.15 1.87 2.34 1.55 0.90
6 2.20 2.06 1.20 1.16 1.00 0.97 2.26 1.55
7 1.61 1.89 1.37 1.31 0.48 1.39 1.23 0.90
8 1.80 1.55 1.11 1.47 0.74 1.14 1.19 1.14

Tab. 10

Chromatic aberration data on back sides of 2 sets of double-face fabric samples with center weft stitching and center weft unstitching"

蓝色纬纱
灰度级别
绿色纬纱灰度级别
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
1 0.87 1.13 0.87 0.42 0.86 0.63 0.55 0.83
2 1.13 1.03 0.40 0.37 0.52 0.38 0.71 0.66
3 1.12 0.57 0.36 0.46 0.57 0.76 0.7 0.45
4 1.17 0.55 0.40 0.56 0.72 0.95 0.83 1.08
5 0.91 0.55 1.03 1.07 0.74 0.7 0.69 1.42
6 0.69 0.65 0.81 0.56 0.77 0.86 1.6 1.40
7 1.20 1.08 0.63 0.38 0.46 0.9 0.87 0.85
8 0.77 0.74 0.72 0.35 0.45 0.87 1.31 2.53
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