Journal of Textile Research ›› 2024, Vol. 45 ›› Issue (05): 51-59.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221202501

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Design of variable porosity structure and evaluation of permeablity and moisture conductivity of single side weft knitted fabric

FANG Xueming, DONG Zhijia(), CONG Honglian, DING Yuqin   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2023-01-28 Revised:2023-09-20 Online:2024-05-15 Published:2024-05-31

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Abstract:

Objective Human body is prone to perspiration, and requirements for thermal and wet comfort of clothing are essential. Permeability and moisture conductivity of fabrics are important influencing factors for heat and humidity management and regulation, and the transmission of fabric to air and implicit sweat is largely affected by its pore structure, including pore size and pore distribution.

Method Weft knitted lace plated structures made from different yarn counts were prepared which formed a differential capillary effect inside the fabric to improve fabric moisture absorption and transmission. The lace plated structures used for making the fabrics endowed the fabric surface with different concave/convex patterns, aiming for improved wicking effect. 9.3 tex (384 f), 5.6 tex (24 f), 5.6 tex (216 f), 3.3 tex (12 f) polyester and 2.2 tex spandex were selected as raw materials, and the German Terrot S 296-2 single side circular weft knitting machine was used, and 9 types of fabrics were prepared with weft knitting lace plated structure as samples. The effects of fabric pores, raw materials and structure on fabric moisture absorption, moisture transmission and moisture dissipation were evaluated.

Results The air permeability of the fabrics was found to be positively correlated with the bulk density, surface porosity and average pore diameter. Since most of the air flew through the fabric pores, the size and distribution of fabric pores were adopted to determine the fabric permeability. The bulk density and average pore diameter showed a great influence on the moisture absorption and conductivity of the fabric. The bulk density and average pore diameter were positively correlated with the moisture conductivity as a whole according to specific conditions. With the same raw materials and organizational structure, the size and distribution of pores were found to affect the tightness of the fabric. Higher bulk density and larger the average pore diameter resulted in tighter fabric structure and greater capillary pressure. The surface porosity was positively correlated with the moisture dissipation performance of the fabric. From the perspective of fabric raw materials and structure, the addition of polyurethane fiber increased the gradient of differential capillary effect of the fabric, leading to improvement of the moisture absorption and conductivity of the fabric, but not the moisture dissipation. Fabric structure will affect the moisture conductivity and moisture dissipation performance. The amount of meshes on the fabric surface was directly related to the specific surface area for fabric evaporation, and more meshes would lead to the better moisture dissipation performance.

Conclusion The results show that the combination of ultrafine polyester and conventional yarn has advantage in moisture absorption and transmission. A fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method is adopted for analysis. Conclusion is drawn, fineness difference of yarns can enrich the gradient of differential capillary effect of fabrics, and achieve a better differential capillary effect, improving the moisture absorption and conductivity of the fabric. The 6#and 7# fabrics in process 4 have certain advantages in the comprehensive properties of permeability and moisture conductivity, which means the plated fabric with high surface porosity and without spandex, composed of loops and floating structure, has the best comprehensive performance of moisture transmission and permeability. The surface porosity with more meshes in the unit circulation tissue, leading up to the better comprehensive moisture absorption and perspiration performance. The nine schemes in this paper are easy to produce and do not need to obtain unidirectional moisture conduction through additives, which provides theoretical and experimental basis for the development of sportswear fabrics with good moisture and heat management ability, environmental protection and sustainable utilization.

Key words: weft knitted fabric, single-sided lace plated stitch, pore structure, air permeability, unidirectional moisture conductivity, polyester yarn, spandex yarn

CLC Number: 

  • TS186.1

Fig.1

4 knitted structures. (a)Process 1;(b)Process 2;(c)Process 3;(d)Process 4"

Tab.1

Raw material proportion and weaving parameters"

样本
编号		 面纱含量/% 地纱含量/% 上机织造参数及成品规格
9.3 tex
(384 f)
涤纶		 5.6 tex
(24 f)
涤纶		 5.6 tex
(216 f)
涤纶		 3.3 tex
(12 f)
涤纶		 9.3 tex
(384 f)
涤纶		 5.6 tex
(24 f)
涤纶		 2.2 tex
氨纶		 纱线长度/
(cm·
(100针)-1)		 横密/
(纵行·
(5 cm)-1)		 纵密/
(横列·
(5 cm)-1)
1# 57.20 6.10 36.70 24.2/23.7/16 84 116
2# 48.60 13.60 37.80 24.2/23.7/24.2 76 113
3# 63.80 3.70 32.50 24/23.5/21 80 104
4# 61.50 3.60 31.30 3.60 24/23.5/7/21 98 160
5# 47.30 5.40 41.90 5.40 24/23.5/7/21 92 158
6# 61.00 5.10 33.90 24/23.5/21 75 98
7# 34.48 5.18 60.34 24/23.5/21 80 116
8# 58.10 4.80 32.30 4.80 24/23.5/7/21 98 170
9# 32.80 4.90 57.40 4.90 24/23.5/7/21 96 170

Fig.2

ImageJ image processing. (a)Original image;(b)Binarized image"

Tab.2

Pore parameters of knitting fabrics"

工艺
方案		 样本
编号		 厚度/
mm		 面密度/
(g·m-2)		 体积质量/
(kg·m-3)		 表面孔
隙率/%		 平均
孔径/μm
工艺1 1# 0.38 139.2 366.32 9.95 46.455 2
工艺2 2# 0.39 138.4 354.87 11.85 65.861 5
工艺3 3# 0.37 124.2 335.68 15.17 99.635 6
4# 0.55 174.0 316.36 9.65 100.150 3
5# 0.64 163.8 255.94 8.66 105.580 7
工艺4 6# 0.36 114.4 317.78 19.91 36.653 7
7# 0.37 112.8 304.86 19.92 28.497 7
8# 0.68 188.6 277.35 10.34 53.007 7
9# 0.67 187.4 279.70 10.46 50.286 9

Fig.3

Air permeability and bulk density of fabric"

Fig.4

Air permeability and surface porosity of fabric"

Fig.5

Accumulative one-way transport index and bulk density of fabric"

Fig.6

Accumulative one-way transport index and average pore diameter of fabric"

Fig.7

Accumulative one-way transport index of fabric"

Fig.8

Wicking height of fabric"

Fig.9

Wicking height and bulk density of fabric"

Fig.10

Moisture permeability and fabric average pore diameter"

Fig.11

Moisture permeability and bulk density of fabric"

Fig.12

Relationship between water evaporation rate and bulk density (a) and surface porosity (b) of fabric"

Fig.13

Water evaporation rate of fabric"

Fig.14

Droplet diffusion area and surface porosity of fabric"

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