Journal of Textile Research ›› 2024, Vol. 45 ›› Issue (03): 97-105.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230200201

• Dyeing and Finishing Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Influences of pigment and linear density on spun-dyed polyester staple fiber and yarn

LU Yunjing1,2, WANG Xue2, QI Yuanzhang3, SONG Lin3, LIAN Zhijun2, LI Xin4,5()   

  1. 1. College of Textiles, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
    2. State Key Laboratory of Biobased Fiber Manufacturing Technology, China Textile Academy, Beijing 100025, China
    3. Lufeng Weaving and Dyeing Co., Ltd., Zibo, Shandong 255100, China
    4. China General Technology (Group) Holding Co., Ltd., Beijing 100161, China
    5. College of Materials Science and Engineering, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
  • Received:2023-02-02 Revised:2023-12-22 Online:2024-03-15 Published:2024-04-15
  • Contact: LI Xin E-mail:lixin2@gt.cn

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Abstract:

Objective The large-scale application of spun-dyed fiber corresponds to multi-spes and differentiated fiber production. However, a long transition cycle when changing the fiber color type or pigment content generates a large amount of transition material or waste in this process due to the generally large capacity of the device. Therefore, it is necessary to understand the influences of pigment type, content, and fiber linear density on the color of spun-dyed fibers, as well as the color variation from fiber to yarn, so as to guide more effectively the development and application of spun-dyed staple fibers.

Method The influences of pigment content (0.3%, 0.9%, and 1.5%) and fiber linear density (1.56, 2.78, 3.89 dtex and 6.11 dtex) on the chromaticity values of semi-dull spun-dyed polyester staple fibers red, yellow, and blue were systematically investigated. In parallel, the variation of chromaticity values from fiber to yarn (linear density of 20 tex, twist factor of 300) was examined and compared with specific specifications of semi-dull dyed staple fibers and bright spun-dyed staple fibers.

Results The results showed that the variation of pigment content significantly affected the chromaticity values of the semi-dull fibers, especially from light-color fiber to medium-color fiber, which is twice as much as between medium-color fiber and dark-color fiber. The chromatic aberration ΔECMC(2:1) for yellow fibers was 21.8 and 8.4, respectively, which is about three times higher than that for red and blue, mainly because of the contribution of the hue difference ΔH. The influence of fiber linear density variation on ΔECMC(2:1) was not significant, and the higher the linear density, the weaker the effect. Similarly, the ΔECMC(2:1) of yellow was more obvious than the other two colors. When producing products such as yellow, especially fine denier fibers, adjusting the linear density required reconfirming the pigment formulation. In general, the variation of chromaticity values from semi-dull spun-dyed staple fiber to yarn was not significant, with ΔECMC(2:1) in the range of 0.8-2.6. On contrast, the variation of chromaticity values of yellow semi-dull dyed staple fiber to yarn was large, with ΔECMC(2:1) in the range of 3.4-3.9. On further examination, the change rate of ΔECMC(2:1) for dyed fibers was 1.8-6.5 CMC(2:1)/dtex, which was significantly higher than that of spun-dyed fibers. It was also evident that the ΔECMC(2:1) of dyed fibers did not show a significant decrease in the change rate of ΔECMC(2:1) with the increase in the linear density of the spun-dyed fibers. The variation of chromaticity values from bright spun-dyed polyester staple fibers to yarn was similar to that of semi-dull dyed staple fibers, and ΔECMC(2:1), ΔL, ΔC, and ΔH were basically the same meaning that for specific color types, the yarn color matching experience of dyed fibers did serve as a reference.

Conclusion The chromaticity values of semi-dull staple fibers vary greatly with pigment types and content ranges. When the pigment content needs to be changed significantly during the production process, the masterbatch should be reformulated. Different fiber linear density ranges have different influences on the chromaticity values of the fibers, and the normalized results suggested that the smaller the linear density, the greater the change rate of ΔECMC(2:1). Among them, the change rate of ΔECMC(2:1) is most obvious for yellow, which is mainly due to larger ΔH, indicating that the adjustment of linear density requires reconfirmation of the masterbatch formulation when producing products such as yellow, especially fine denier fibers. For conventional linear density of semi-dull spun-dyed fibers, the color variation from fiber to yarn is not obvious. However, when the fiber linear density is small enough, such as ultrafine fibers prepared by composite spinning, this result needs to be re-examined. Overall, the change rate of ΔECMC(2:1) of dyed fibers is significantly higher than that of spun-dyed fibers, mainly due to the different chromophores of dyes and pigments. The color variation from fiber to yarn for the bright spun-dyed fibers is essentially the same as that for the semi-dull dyed fibers, implying that the color variation law from semi-dull dyed fibers to yarn can be utilized to guide the yarn color matching of the bright spun-dyed fibers.

Key words: polyester staple fiber, spun-dyed fiber, pigment, linear density, chromaticity value, yarn color matching

CLC Number: 

  • TS102.522

Tab.1

Chromaticity values of different types of spun-dyed polyester staple fiber"

纤维编号 L* C* h* 纤维编号 L* C* h*
SS/1.56/0.3/RD 55.0 47.5 23.6 SS/3.89/1.5/YE 69.5 88.7 76.8
SS/1.56/0.9/RD 44.3 59.5 26.2 SS/6.11/1.5/YE 68.5 86.9 76.1
SS/1.56/1.5/RD 40.3 60.5 27.4 SS/1.56/0.3/BU 41.8 32.4 279.6
SS/2.78/1.5/RD 38.1 60.5 28.2 SS/1.56/0.9/BU 27.7 34.7 285.6
SS/3.89/1.5/RD 37.5 59.9 27.8 SS/1.56/1.5/BU 23.1 32.5 288.0
SS/6.11/1.5/RD 36.6 59.4 27.8 SS/2.78/1.5/BU 20.4 30.6 289.5
SS/1.56/0.3/YE 79.7 82.8 88.7 SS/3.89/1.5/BU 19.6 29.3 290.1
SS/1.56/0.9/YE 75.0 88.8 82.3 SS/6.11/1.5/BU 19.4 28.2 290.5
SS/1.56/1.5/YE 72.1 89.3 79.3 SB/1.56/2.8/RD 36.2 58.6 25.0
SS/2.78/1.5/YE 70.4 89.2 78.0 SB/1.56/0.2/YE 75.4 68.9 82.7

Tab.2

Chromaticity values of different types of dyed polyester staple fiber"

纤维编号 L* C* h* 纤维编号 L* C* h*
SS/0.89/RD/D 41.8 62.9 28.3 SS/1.33/YE/D 73.7 69.7 79.4
SS/1.11/RD/D 40.9 62.3 28.3 SS/1.56/YE/D 73.3 71.4 78.7
SS/1.33/RD/D 40.3 62.1 28.4 SS/0.89/BU/D 48.8 36.2 236.7
SS/1.56/RD/D 39.8 63.2 29.1 SS/1.11/BU/D 47.2 36.3 237.3
SS/0.89/YE/D 75.2 68.4 79.3 SS/1.33/BU/D 46.3 36.3 238.5
SS/1.11/YE/D 74.1 69.2 78.0 SS/1.56/BU/D 44.5 36.3 238.9

Tab.3

Chromaticity values of different types of polyester staple yarn"

纱线编号 L* C* h* 纱线编号 L* C* h*
Y20/300-SS/1.56/0.3/RD 57.0 47.7 23.1 Y20/310-SB/1.56/2.8/RD 38.0 62.0 25.4
Y20/300-SS/1.56/0.9/RD 46.4 59.9 25.5 Y20/310-SB/1.56/0.2/YE 78.3 72.6 80.2
Y20/300-SS/1.56/1.5/RD 42.8 61.4 27.1 Y10/300-SS/0.89/RD/D 44.0 66.9 28.7
Y20/300-SS/2.78/1.5/RD 41.1 61.3 28.2 Y10/300-SS/1.11/RD/D 43.2 65.3 28.5
Y20/300-SS/3.89/1.5/RD 39.5 61.1 28.6 Y10/300-SS/1.33/RD/D 42.7 66.2 29.1
Y20/300-SS/6.11/1.5/RD 39.1 60.9 28.9 Y10/300-SS/1.56/RD/D 42.3 66.1 29.0
Y20/300-SS/1.56/0.3/YE 81.5 83.9 88.4 Y20/300-SS/1.56/RD/D 42.1 65.8 29.1
Y20/300-SS/1.56/0.9/YE 77.4 90.9 83.0 Y10/300-SS/0.89/YE/D 78.4 73.1 77.8
Y20/300-SS/1.56/1.5/YE 74.8 92.8 79.8 Y10/300-SS/1.11/YE/D 77.4 74.1 78.0
Y20/300-SS/2.78/1.5/YE 71.7 92.6 78.4 Y10/300-SS/1.33/YE/D 77.9 74.6 78.0
Y20/300-SS/3.89/1.5/YE 71.1 91.4 76.8 Y10/300-SS/1.56/YE/D 77.2 75.6 77.5
Y20/300-SS/6.11/1.5/YE 70.6 90.1 76.8 Y20/300-SS/1.56/YE/D 77.0 75.5 77.0
Y20/300-SS/1.56/0.3/BU 43.8 32.4 279.6 Y10/300-SS/0.89/BU/D 50.0 37.1 237.7
Y20/300-SS/1.56/0.9/BU 29.9 36.3 285.2 Y10/300-SS/1.11/BU/D 48.6 37.1 237.7
Y20/300-SS/1.56/1.5/BU 25.5 34.1 288.5 Y10/300-SS/1.33/BU/D 48.3 37.2 238.5
Y20/300-SS/2.78/1.5/BU 23.0 35.4 287.2 Y10/300-SS/1.56/BU/D 46.8 37.5 238.7
Y20/300-SS/3.89/1.5/BU 21.8 34.7 289.7 Y20/300-SS/1.56/BU/D 46.9 36.8 238.7
Y20/300-SS/6.11/1.5/BU 21.9 32.8 288.7

Tab.4

Variations of chromatic values of semi-dull spun-dyed staple fibers (1.56 dtex) with different pigment mass fractions"

颜料
类型		 颜料质量
分数/%		 ΔL ΔC ΔH ΔECMC(2:1)
红色 0.3~0.9 -10.7 12.0 2.4 6.9
0.9~1.5 -4.0 1.1 1.2 2.1
黄色 0.3~0.9 -4.7 6.0 -9.5 21.8
0.9~1.5 -2.9 0.6 -4.8 8.4
蓝色 0.3~0.9 -14.1 2.2 3.5 7.8
0.9~1.5 -4.5 -2.2 1.4 3.4

Tab.5

Variations of chromaticity values and ΔECMC(2:1) of semi-dull spun-dyed staple fibers (pigment mass fraction of 1.5%) with different fiber linear densities"

颜料
类型		 纤维线
密度/dtex		 ΔL ΔC ΔH ΔECMC(2:1) 色差
变化率
1.56~2.78 -2.2 -0.1 0.8 1.3 1.1
红色 2.78~3.89 -0.7 -0.6 -0.4 0.5 0.5
3.89~6.11 -0.9 -0.4 0.1 0.5 0.2
1.56~2.78 -1.7 -0.1 -1.9 3.1 2.5
黄色 2.78~3.89 -0.9 -0.5 -1.7 1.7 1.5
3.89~6.11 -1.0 -1.7 -1.1 1.1 0.5
1.56~2.78 -2.7 -1.9 0.8 2.3 1.9
蓝色 2.78~3.89 -0.8 -1.3 0.3 1.0 0.9
3.89~6.11 -0.2 -1.1 0.2 0.6 0.3

Tab.6

Variations of chromaticity values between semi-dull spun-dyed staple fiber and its yarn(Y20/300) with different pigment mass fractions and fiber linear densities"

纤维样品编号 ΔL ΔC ΔH ΔECMC(2:1)
SS/1.56/0.3/RD 2.1 0.2 -0.5 1.0
SS/1.56/0.9/RD 2.1 0.4 -0.8 1.2
SS/1.56/1.5/RD 2.5 0.9 -0.3 1.3
SS/2.78/1.5/RD 3.0 0.8 0.3 1.6
SS/3.89/1.5/RD 2.0 1.2 0.5 1.2
SS/6.11/1.5/RD 2.5 1.5 0.1 1.5
SS/1.56/0.3/YE 1.8 1.1 -0.4 0.8
SS/1.56/0.9/YE 2.4 2.1 1.0 1.3
SS/1.56/1.5/YE 2.7 3.4 0.8 1.6
SS/2.78/1.5/YE 2.7 5.3 0.7 2.2
SS/3.89/1.5/YE 1.5 4.5 -0.9 2.1
SS/6.11/1.5/YE 2.1 4.2 1.4 2.6
SS/1.56/0.3/BU 2.0 -0.1 0.0 1.0
SS/1.56/0.9/BU 2.3 1.6 -0.3 1.7
SS/1.56/1.5/BU 2.3 1.6 -0.3 1.9
SS/2.78/1.5/BU 2.6 2.0 -0.6 2.3
SS/3.89/1.5/BU 2.2 2.5 0.5 2.2
SS/6.11/1.5/BU 2.5 1.7 -0.5 2.3

Tab.7

Variations of chromaticity values and ΔECMC(2:1) of semi-dull dyed staple fibers with different linear densities"

颜料
类型		 纤维线
密度/dtex		 ΔL ΔC ΔH ΔECMC(2:1) 色差
变化率
0.89~1.11 -0.9 -0.6 0.0 0.5 2.3
红色 1.11~1.33 -0.7 -0.2 0.1 0.4 1.8
1.33~1.56 -0.5 1.1 0.8 0.7 3.0
0.89~1.11 -1.2 0.8 -0.3 0.7 3.2
黄色 1.11~1.33 -0.3 0.6 0.8 1.4 6.4
1.33~1.56 -0.4 1.7 -0.8 1.5 6.5
0.89~1.11 -1.6 0.1 0.4 0.8 3.6
蓝色 1.11~1.33 -0.9 -0.1 0.7 0.7 3.2
1.33~1.56 -1.8 0.1 0.3 0.9 3.9

Tab.8

Variations of chromaticity values between semi-dull dyed staple fiber and its yarn(Y10/300) with different fiber linear densities"

纤维样品编号 ΔL ΔC ΔH ΔECMC(2:1)
SS/0.89/RD/D 2.2 4.1 0.4 1.8
SS/1.11/RD/D 2.3 3.1 0.3 1.6
SS/1.33/RD/D 2.4 4.1 0.7 2.0
SS/1.56/RD/D 2.5 2.9 - 0.3 1.7
SS/0.89/YE/D 3.2 4.7 - 1.9 3.9
SS/1.11/YE/D 3.3 5.2 - 1.8 3.7
SS/1.33/YE/D 4.3 4.9 - 1.7 3.8
SS/1.56/YE/D 3.8 4.3 - 1.6 3.4
SS/0.89/BU/D 1.1 0.2 - 0.4 0.6
SS/1.11/BU/D 1.4 0.8 0.3 0.8
SS/1.33/BU/D 2.0 1.0 0.2 1.1
SS/1.56/BU/D 2.3 1.2 - 0.2 1.3

Fig.1

Reflectance curves of semi-dull spun-dyed staple, bright spun-dyed staple, and semi-dull dyed staple. (a) Red; (b) Yellow"

Tab.9

Variations of chromaticity values between spun-dyed staple and semi-dull dyed staple and its yarn (Y20/300)"

纤维样品编号 ΔL ΔC ΔH ΔECMC(2:1)
SS/1.56/1.5/RD 2.5 0.9 - 0.3 1.3
SB/1.56/2.8/RD 1.8 3.4 0.3 1.6
SS/1.56/RD/D 2.4 2.7 - 0.2 1.6
SS/1.56/0.3/YE 1.8 1.1 - 0.4 0.8
SB/1.56/0.2/YE 2.9 3.7 - 3.0 2.5
SS/1.56/YE/D 3.7 4.1 - 2.3 2.4
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