Journal of Textile Research ›› 2024, Vol. 45 ›› Issue (09): 154-163.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20231200501

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Structural creation of striped skirt and its three-dimensional virtual restoration

HUANG Ziwei(), YANG Lang   

  1. Art Institute, Hubei Polytechnic University, Huangshi, Huhei 435003, China
  • Received:2023-12-06 Revised:2024-05-24 Online:2024-09-15 Published:2024-09-15

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Abstract:

Objective Soft cultural relics such as clothing are easy to decay, and most of them are fragmentary when unearthed. In order to provide better repair and protection, digital technology are used for non-contact virtual restoration in the early stage. From the perspective of ″costume-personage-environment″, through the dress collocation of inner and outer layers, dynamic display of the characters' clothing, and wearing scene construction of ancient clothes, a three-dimensional dynamic digital model is established to inject more background information, so as to effectively retrieve the singularity of two-dimensional display. This paper proposes a digital restoration method based on the combination of 2-D and 3-D methods to build the digital intelligence platform construction of clothing relics and the creative design for new Chinese style clothing.

Method Three striped skirts in the museum collection of BIFT were taken as research objects. Firstly, the structural data of these skirts was inferred through image analysis, process inference and geometric scaling methods. Their structures were restored, and the structure of side panel was conceived and practised by the universal engineering drawing software AutoCAD. The pattern and texture were then restored with PhotoShop and AI. At last, the virtual fitting of inner and outer textile relics was carried out in CLO3D software, and the restoration effect was evaluated by dressing pressure analysis and questionnaire method.

Results Through image analysis, process inference, geometric scaling methods, the structural measured data of the three striped skirts were obtained. Through comparing the inferred data with the measured data of the three striped skirts, the error of waist girth was found less than 2.5%, and the error of sweep girth less than 3.3%, demonstrating a high accuracy of the the inferred structural data. The waistline adjustment proportion based on the width difference between inside and outside horse-face was 10%. Based on the inferred data, their structural diagrams were obtained using the AutoCAD software. The structural design theory of A-shape skirt was introduced into the design of striped skirts' side panel, therefore, the conventional trapezoidal side panel was improved into a fan-shaped structure by arc fitting, which not only fulfilled its flat pattern geometry model, but also improved the balance of the skirt sweep. In the flat pattern of side panel, the relationship between the center angle and the warping angle of the waist line was summarized, that is, the center angle was twice that the up warping angle of the waistline. Not only does this make the stereoscopic effect of striped skirt materialize into a three-dimensional model of the circular truncated cone, but its spatial form is more intuitive and controllable. The structural design and practice for striped skirts in line with modern women's body shape and aesthetic value was conducted. In the wearing state of spreading out, the space between striped skirt and avatar was discussed, which proves that the structural creation is correct. In the virtual fitting experiment by CLO3D, the custom of wearing striped skirt together with the pants inside was complied and the three-dimensional dressing effects were obtained. Objective evaluation of appearance comparison and pressure analysis together with subjective evaluation of questionnaire survey indicated that the comprehensive evaluation of the recovery effect is good.

Conclusion The result shows that the method can achieve precise virtual restoration of clothing cultural relics, and their digital models for static and dynamic displays are obtained. On one hand, it offers structural data reference for physical restoration, and on the other hand, it also provides strong technical support for the construction of virtual display platforms in digital intelligence museums. With the development of three-dimensional virtual technology, ancient clothing relics and culture will be communicated and promoted in more vivid forms.

Key words: horse-face skirt, striped skirt, A-type skirt, 3-D virtual restoration, CLO3D, digital intelligence museum, new Chinese style

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.26

Fig.1

Wide tuck/hundred-pleat/fish-scale horse face skirts. (a) Wide tuck horse face skirt from old collection of Confucius mansion (Ming); (b) Hundred-pleat horse face skirt (Qing); (c) Texture of fish-scale skirt"

Fig.2

Moon-night horse face skirt (a), striped horse face skirt (b) and phoenix-tail horse face skirt (c)"

Fig.3

Basic composition of horse-face skirt"

Fig.4

Object pictures of striped skirts"

Fig.5

Schematic diagram of embroidering process for border. (a) Flat stitch; (b) Blind stitch hemming"

Fig.6

Comparison diagram of embroidering processes for outer horse face. (a) Process 1; (b) Process 2"

Fig.7

Schematic measurement for MFB000704 striped skirt"

Tab.1

Measured structural parameters of striped skirts cm"

襕干裙编号 腰头宽
(A)		 外马面高
(B)		 外马面宽
(C)		 内马面宽
(D)		 宽裙片上边长
(E)		 宽裙片下边长
(F)		 裙片上边长
(G)
MFB000704 14.3 75.4 29.9 19.5 4.6 24.1 3.9
MFB009830 19.5 85.8 29.9 11.7 5.9 24.1 3.9
MFB001241 11.7 80.6 28.6 18.2 — — 3.4
襕干裙编号 裙片下边长
(H)		 马面镶边宽
(I)		 花边1宽
(J)		 间距
(K)		 花边2宽
(L)		 襕干条宽
(M)		 腰围
(W)		 摆围
(S)
MFB000704 11.7 1.3 2 0.7 1.3 1.3 118.3 228.7
MFB009830 13.0 2.6 1.3 — — 1.3 111.8 226.2
MFB001241 11.7 3.9 1.3 0.9 — 1.3 111.8 236.6

Tab.2

Comparison between speculated and actual structural parameters"

襕干裙
编号		 推断
腰围/
cm		 实测
腰围/
cm		 腰围
误差/
%		 推断
摆围/
cm		 实测
摆围/
cm		 摆围
误差/
%
MFB000704 119.6 118.3 1.10 221.3 228.7 -3.24
MFB009830 114.5 111.8 2.42 223.8 226.2 -1.06
MFB001241 112.6 111.8 0.72 228.7 236.6 -3.30

Fig.8

Structural diagrams of MFB000704 striped skirt"

Tab.3

Data relationship between horse face width and waist together with sweep %"

襕干裙
编号		 在腰围中的占比 在摆围中的占比
外马
面宽		 内马
面宽		 侧腰围 外马
面宽		 内马
面宽		 侧摆围
MFB000704 50.5 16.5 33.0 26.1 8.5 65.3
MFB009830 53.5 10.5 36.0 26.4 5.2 68.4
MFB001241 51.2 16.3 32.6 24.2 7.7 68.1

Tab.4

Importance ranking and weight of evaluation indexes"

评价指标 秩 秩和 权重(A)
T1 T2 T3 T4
整体形制 3 4 3 2 12 0.20
细部结构 5 3 4 4 16 0.13
面料质感 2 1 1 1 5 0.32
色彩与纹样 1 2 2 3 8 0.27
裙摆截面形态 4 5 5 5 19 0.08

Fig.9

Expanded views for side panels and their central angle of three striped skirts"

Fig.10

Arc fitting of side panel's waistline"

Fig.11

Structural diagram of new Chinese striped skirt (five borders)"

Fig.12

Virtual wearing of new Chinese striped skirt (five borders). (a) Natural state; (b) State of spreading; (c) Transparent state of spreading"

Fig.13

Pattern extraction of MFB009830 striped skirt"

Fig.14

Initial dressing state of avatar (a) and level arrangement of panels (b)"

Fig.15

Restoration effect pictures of three striped skirts"

Fig.16

Wearing pressure distribution graph of three striped skirts"

Tab.5

Statistical table of evaluation data"

评价指标 非常差 差 一般 好 非常好
整体形制 0 0 0.16 0.31 0.53
细部结构 0 0 0.20 0.47 0.33
面料质感 0 0 0.23 0.52 0.25
色彩与纹样 0 0 0.28 0.48 0.24
裙摆截面形态 0 0 0.13 0.40 0.47
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