Abstract:

Side opening clothing and its technique “wa da jin” as well as associated folk custome culture in modern Qilu area were analyzed. Through on-spot investigation in combination with folk documents and annals of local history, the technical process and characteristics of “wa da jin” of single side opening clothing were studied from the perspective of folk costume and technology. Six processes including hinging clothing body, opennings, sewing small lapel, digging extension shoulder, sewing collar and after-treatment were analyzed and illustrated. On this basis, the associated folk cultural connotation was summed up as follows: its characteristics such as practical, concise and conservative reflect Qilu farming culture and the local ethnic character traits. Dress behavior and transmission of folk taboos express folk psychologies of Qilu people that aspire to a better life and avoid calamity. The skill level not only expresses thoughts and feelings of Qilu working women, but also determines its position in the family.