Abstract: Unconventional structure line is important in meeting diverse requirements for designing modern women's dress. Unconventional structure lines herein are clearly demonstrated through samples based on different tailing methods of plane cutting, three-dimensional cutting and a combination of  the both. An analytical comparison is made of the garment patterns obtained from differnent methods in terms of dart, ease, frings, accuracy of garment pattern and results of garment, which helps to draw general principles for different techniques in unconventional structure line. The application of those designing philosophies make creative dress structure true by the way of adding pleats or space to meet individual demands for fashion.

Key words: unconventional structure line, plane cutting, three-dimensional cutting, constitutional technique