Abstract:

In order to obtain a better effect of structure design, in this paper, based on the 3-D human body measurement, relevant data about shoulder are acquireda and the SPSS analysis software is used to analyze these data. The parameter named shoulder arch is established to study shoulder horizontal camber, which value is between 0.702 and 0.912 . By the way of clustering analyzing the shoulder arch is analyzed and different shouledr models are acquired, adn by combining with the shoulder's slope classification standard, 9 different shoulders models are acquired finally.  By the correlation analysis, the negative relationship between shoulder arch and shoulder width is acquired. By using 3-D fitting function in OptiTex software different shoulder arch models are set up to analyze the effect of different shoulder arches on the dress, and by the three-dimensional cutting technology, different sample patterns are acquired. The change of process points in pattern is analyzed and the effect of different shoulder arch on the design is concluded, for example effect on neckline about it's length and position, on clothes body's sleeve arc line and on shoulder line length, and the most significant effect is on the back-neckline length, with the increase of the should arch, the back-neckline length gradually increased by an average value of 0.3 cm.

Key words: body measurement, female youth, shoulder arch, upper garment pattern