Abstract:

This study aimes to make a contribution to the study of salvage conservation of intangible cultural heritance of textile industry. It analyzed and classified patterned simple gauze relics of the Song dynasty from archaeological excavations according to weaving structure features thereof. Coming to a conclusion that the String-Heddle Patterning loom was set with coupled doup harness and was used in patterned simple gauzes production in the Song according to sericulture and weaving. The techniques of weaving patterned simple gauzes by the loom are known. The study made looming drafts of fabrics, after comparison between modern patterned simple gauze loom and patterned simple gauze loom of Song, based on working principle of modern patterned gauze loom. Looming drafts of patterned simple gauze were divided into the weaving structure, crossing ends draft plan, ground ends draft plan, crossing ends lifting plan and ground ends lifting plan. According to the matrix principle, the study makes the above 5 parts as 5 matrixes and puts forward mathematical models by defining logical operation. The mathematical model provides a basic theory for the system of CAD and modern loom.

Key words: patterned simple gauze of Song dynasty, relics, weaving sructure, weaving technique, mathematical model