Journal of Textile Research ›› 2024, Vol. 45 ›› Issue (01): 185-193.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221200101

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Mediating role of emotions between pleated costume elements and semantic evaluations

HAN Yanna1, JIANG Yicheng1, ZHENG Xia1(), YANG Zitian2   

  1. 1. School of Art and Archaeology, Zhejiang University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310063, China
    2. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
  • Received:2022-12-01 Revised:2023-03-07 Online:2024-01-15 Published:2024-03-14

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Abstract:

Objective Chinese opera costumes play a vital role in the opera performance. To ensure the social preservation of traditional opera culture, it requires understanding how young audiences perceive and evaluate costumes emotionally and semantically. However, limited research has been done on the quantitative relationship among costume design elements, aesthetic emotions, and semantic evaluations. Therefore, using Leder's aesthetic cognitive processing model and the emotional Pleasure-Arousal-Dominance (PAD) model, this study investigated how emotions are involved in the semantic evaluations of clothing. The Xiaosheng pleated garment of Yue Opera served as the specific research object.

Method Using two types of materials, pure polyester and pure silk, with 15 colors (top five colors, bottom five colors, middle five colors) and 4 patterns (no pattern, flower decorated border, flower broken in branch, flower medallion) for combination design, 120 pictures were built by CLO3D 6.0. Through corpus search, group classification, and expert consultation, we screened five groups of semantic differential pairs used to describe the Xiaosheng pleated garments: low level-high level, refined-rough, fresh-gaudy, brave-gentle, and stiff-drape. University students were invited to randomly score all the samples on the liking, PAD emotions, and semantic evaluations on PsychoPy 2022.2.4, and data from 35 validated subjects was analyzed via SPSS 25 and Amos 26.

Results The relevance of pleated garment design elements, emotions, and semantic evaluations was first examined. The results showed that only the material had a significant correlation with the semantic "stiff-drape". The color was strongly correlated with liking, pleasure, dominance, arousal, "low level-high level", and "refined-rough". The pattern was also significantly correlated with the last three. Moreover, pleasure had a significant correlation with all semantics except for "fresh-gaudy", while arousal was significantly correlated with "fresh-gaudy" and "brave-gentle". Finally, dominance had a significant correlation with all semantics. We further leveraged one-way ANOVA to test the effects of design elements on emotions and semantics, respectively. Material did not affect emotions, and showed significance only in semantics "stiff-drape". The arousal of flower medallion was significantly higher than that of no pattern, and those with flower medallion were voted to be more high-class. Color had a significant effect on all emotions and semantics. According to the emotional impact, the color of Xiaosheng pleated clothes can be clustered into 3 categories: the first category is high pleasure, low arousal, high dominance colors, containing Aiqing, white, light pink, light blue, and black. The second category is high pleasure, high arousal, low dominance colors, containing bright red, goose yellow, pink, and bright yellow. The third category is low pleasure, low arousal, low dominance colors, containing treasure blue, lake, old green, medium green, and purple. Finally, the study constructed the mediating model of emotions on partial design elements and semantic evaluations. The analysis shows that arousal and dominance played a mediating role in clustered color type, pattern and "low level - high level". Pleasure, arousal, and dominance mediated the "refined-rough" in the clustered color and pattern. In the clustered color and semantic judgment of "fresh-gaudy", PAD played the mediation roles. "Brave-gentle" evaluation was mediated by the pleasure and arousal of the color. In addition, the dominance of color positively predicted the semantics "stiff-drape".

Conclusion The combinations of materials, colors and patterns of pleated garments have effects on both aesthetic judgments and aesthetic emotions. Pleated garments with the feeling of high-level, refined, drape, fresh, and gentle were more likely to be preferred by the youngsters, and the design of patterns was significantly associated with the semantics "low level-high level", "refined-rough", and emotional arousal. The study also found that color can significantly affect aesthetic emotions. Based on the PAD emotion model, the traditional opera costume color scheme was reclassified into three major categories: high pleasure, high arousal, and low dominance; high pleasure, low arousal, and high dominance; and low pleasure, low arousal, and low dominance. It was also explored that emotions played an important mediating role in the pleated garment design elements and semantic evaluations. Therefore, this study provides an empirical reference for the aesthetic process of opera costumes and their innovative design.

Key words: opera costumes, perceptual semantics, PAD emotional model, pleated garment, mediation model, aesthetic theory

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.12

Tab.1

Experimental color parameters"

类别 颜色 H值 S值 V值 类别 颜色 H值 S值 V值 类别 颜色 H值 S值 V值
上
五
色		 大红 351 90 86 中
间
色		 淡粉 1 17 95 下
五
色		 粉色 330 55 91
老绿 147 98 36 淡蓝 197 34 82 宝蓝 227 76 60
明黄 46 93 98 鹅黄 55 71 99 紫色 343 69 39
白色 0 0 100 艾青 152 28 89 湖色 191 100 63
黑色 0 0 0 中绿 159 76 80 香色 45 67 48

Fig.1

Experimental pattern shapes. (a) Flower decorated border; (b) Flower broken in branch; (c) Flower medallion"

Fig.2

Part of the experimental samples. (a) Polyester;(b) Silk; (c) Without pattern; (d) Flower decorated border;(e) Flower broken in branch; (f) Flower medallion"

Fig.3

Experimental procedure"

Tab.3

Single factor analysis of variance on the impact of the pleated garment design elements on emotions and semantics"

维度 组别 自由度 均方 F Sig
材质 低档的-高档的 1 0.682 0.708 0.402
精致的-粗犷的 1 2.055 2.637 0.107
挺括的-垂坠的 1 71.297 228.537** 0.000
清新的-浓艳的 1 0.479 0.199 0.656
勇武的-斯文的 1 3.161 1.493 0.224
愉悦度 1 0.114 0.143 0.706
唤醒度 1 0.182 0.323 0.571
支配度 1 0.395 0.266 0.607
纹样
装饰		 低档的-高档的 3 4.915 5.725** 0.001
精致的-粗犷的 3 5.530 8.285** 0.000
挺括的-垂坠的 3 0.152 0.163 0.921
清新的-浓艳的 3 1.205 0.498 0.684
勇武的-斯文的 3 0.522 0.241 0.868
愉悦度 3 0.549 0.688 0.561
唤醒度 3 0.899 1.632 0.186
支配度 3 0.513 0.342 0.795
颜色 低档的-高档的 14 6.602 31.665** 0.000
精致的-粗犷的 14 4.921 20.565** 0.000
挺括的-垂坠的 14 1.977 2.581** 0.003
清新的-浓艳的 14 19.615 215.137** 0.000
勇武的-斯文的 14 17.230 153.732** 0.000
愉悦度 14 6.145 79.102** 0.000
唤醒度 14 4.146 50.843** 0.000
支配度 14 11.996 158.993** 0.000

Tab.2

Spearman correlation matrix between pleated garment design elements, PAD emotions,and semantic evaluations"

类型 均值 标准差 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
1 材质 — — 0.064 0.040 0.003 0.042 0.087 -0.136 0.811** -0.057 0.168
2 颜色 — — -0.319** -0.481** -0.360** -0.281** -0.350** 0.261** -0.154 0.177 -0.060
3 纹样 — — 0.102 0.111 0.240** 0.109 0.342** -0.410** -0.071 0.166 -0.090
4 不喜欢-喜欢 3.271 1.236 — 0.396** -0.104 0.926** 0.886** -0.728** 0.392** -0.660** 0.482**
5 愉悦度 3.930 0.890 - 0.617** 0.382** 0.417** -0.512** 0.214* -0.119 0.317**
6 唤醒度 3.158 0.748 — -0.125 0.048 -0.102 -0.025 0.475** -0.189*
7 支配度 3.031 1.216 — 0.864** -0.718** 0.381** -0.658** 0.486**
8 低档的-高档的 3.796 0.980 — -0.739** 0.376** -0.457** 0.312**
9 精致的-粗犷的 3.160 0.889 — -0.406** 0.561** -0.676**
10 挺括的-垂坠的 3.983 0.953 — -0.384** 0.456**
11 清新的-浓艳的 3.844 1.545 — -0.765**
12 勇武的-斯文的 3.960 1.458 —

Fig.4

Influence of pleated garment design elements on emotions(a)and semantic evaluations (b)"

Fig.5

Influence of color on emotions. (a) 3-D fitting surface of PAD color model for clothing samples; (b) Distribution of dominance and arousal of sample colors; (c) Distribution of dominance and pleasure of sample colors"

Fig.6

Regression model before (a) and after (b) introducing mediation variables"

Fig.7

Mediation of emotions between design elements and semantics "low level-high level""

Fig.8

Mediation of emotions between design elements and semantics "refined-rough""

Fig.9

Mediation of emotions between design elements and semantics "fresh-gaudy""

Fig.10

Mediation of emotions between design elements and semantics "brave-gentle""

Fig.11

Mediation of emotion between design elements and semantics "stiff-drape""

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