Journal of Textile Research ›› 2024, Vol. 45 ›› Issue (05): 51-59.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221202501

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Design of variable porosity structure and evaluation of permeablity and moisture conductivity of single side weft knitted fabric

FANG Xueming, DONG Zhijia(), CONG Honglian, DING Yuqin   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2023-01-28 Revised:2023-09-20 Online:2024-05-15 Published:2024-05-31

RichHTML

14

PDF (PC)

49

Abstract:

Objective Human body is prone to perspiration, and requirements for thermal and wet comfort of clothing are essential. Permeability and moisture conductivity of fabrics are important influencing factors for heat and humidity management and regulation, and the transmission of fabric to air and implicit sweat is largely affected by its pore structure, including pore size and pore distribution.

Method Weft knitted lace plated structures made from different yarn counts were prepared which formed a differential capillary effect inside the fabric to improve fabric moisture absorption and transmission. The lace plated structures used for making the fabrics endowed the fabric surface with different concave/convex patterns, aiming for improved wicking effect. 9.3 tex (384 f), 5.6 tex (24 f), 5.6 tex (216 f), 3.3 tex (12 f) polyester and 2.2 tex spandex were selected as raw materials, and the German Terrot S 296-2 single side circular weft knitting machine was used, and 9 types of fabrics were prepared with weft knitting lace plated structure as samples. The effects of fabric pores, raw materials and structure on fabric moisture absorption, moisture transmission and moisture dissipation were evaluated.

Results The air permeability of the fabrics was found to be positively correlated with the bulk density, surface porosity and average pore diameter. Since most of the air flew through the fabric pores, the size and distribution of fabric pores were adopted to determine the fabric permeability. The bulk density and average pore diameter showed a great influence on the moisture absorption and conductivity of the fabric. The bulk density and average pore diameter were positively correlated with the moisture conductivity as a whole according to specific conditions. With the same raw materials and organizational structure, the size and distribution of pores were found to affect the tightness of the fabric. Higher bulk density and larger the average pore diameter resulted in tighter fabric structure and greater capillary pressure. The surface porosity was positively correlated with the moisture dissipation performance of the fabric. From the perspective of fabric raw materials and structure, the addition of polyurethane fiber increased the gradient of differential capillary effect of the fabric, leading to improvement of the moisture absorption and conductivity of the fabric, but not the moisture dissipation. Fabric structure will affect the moisture conductivity and moisture dissipation performance. The amount of meshes on the fabric surface was directly related to the specific surface area for fabric evaporation, and more meshes would lead to the better moisture dissipation performance.

Conclusion The results show that the combination of ultrafine polyester and conventional yarn has advantage in moisture absorption and transmission. A fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method is adopted for analysis. Conclusion is drawn, fineness difference of yarns can enrich the gradient of differential capillary effect of fabrics, and achieve a better differential capillary effect, improving the moisture absorption and conductivity of the fabric. The 6#and 7# fabrics in process 4 have certain advantages in the comprehensive properties of permeability and moisture conductivity, which means the plated fabric with high surface porosity and without spandex, composed of loops and floating structure, has the best comprehensive performance of moisture transmission and permeability. The surface porosity with more meshes in the unit circulation tissue, leading up to the better comprehensive moisture absorption and perspiration performance. The nine schemes in this paper are easy to produce and do not need to obtain unidirectional moisture conduction through additives, which provides theoretical and experimental basis for the development of sportswear fabrics with good moisture and heat management ability, environmental protection and sustainable utilization.

Key words: weft knitted fabric, single-sided lace plated stitch, pore structure, air permeability, unidirectional moisture conductivity, polyester yarn, spandex yarn

CLC Number: 

  • TS186.1

Fig.1

4 knitted structures. (a)Process 1;(b)Process 2;(c)Process 3;(d)Process 4"

Tab.1

Raw material proportion and weaving parameters"

样本
编号		 面纱含量/% 地纱含量/% 上机织造参数及成品规格
9.3 tex
(384 f)
涤纶		 5.6 tex
(24 f)
涤纶		 5.6 tex
(216 f)
涤纶		 3.3 tex
(12 f)
涤纶		 9.3 tex
(384 f)
涤纶		 5.6 tex
(24 f)
涤纶		 2.2 tex
氨纶		 纱线长度/
(cm·
(100针)-1)		 横密/
(纵行·
(5 cm)-1)		 纵密/
(横列·
(5 cm)-1)
1# 57.20 6.10 36.70 24.2/23.7/16 84 116
2# 48.60 13.60 37.80 24.2/23.7/24.2 76 113
3# 63.80 3.70 32.50 24/23.5/21 80 104
4# 61.50 3.60 31.30 3.60 24/23.5/7/21 98 160
5# 47.30 5.40 41.90 5.40 24/23.5/7/21 92 158
6# 61.00 5.10 33.90 24/23.5/21 75 98
7# 34.48 5.18 60.34 24/23.5/21 80 116
8# 58.10 4.80 32.30 4.80 24/23.5/7/21 98 170
9# 32.80 4.90 57.40 4.90 24/23.5/7/21 96 170

Fig.2

ImageJ image processing. (a)Original image;(b)Binarized image"

Tab.2

Pore parameters of knitting fabrics"

工艺
方案		 样本
编号		 厚度/
mm		 面密度/
(g·m-2)		 体积质量/
(kg·m-3)		 表面孔
隙率/%		 平均
孔径/μm
工艺1 1# 0.38 139.2 366.32 9.95 46.455 2
工艺2 2# 0.39 138.4 354.87 11.85 65.861 5
工艺3 3# 0.37 124.2 335.68 15.17 99.635 6
4# 0.55 174.0 316.36 9.65 100.150 3
5# 0.64 163.8 255.94 8.66 105.580 7
工艺4 6# 0.36 114.4 317.78 19.91 36.653 7
7# 0.37 112.8 304.86 19.92 28.497 7
8# 0.68 188.6 277.35 10.34 53.007 7
9# 0.67 187.4 279.70 10.46 50.286 9

Fig.3

Air permeability and bulk density of fabric"

Fig.4

Air permeability and surface porosity of fabric"

Fig.5

Accumulative one-way transport index and bulk density of fabric"

Fig.6

Accumulative one-way transport index and average pore diameter of fabric"

Fig.7

Accumulative one-way transport index of fabric"

Fig.8

Wicking height of fabric"

Fig.9

Wicking height and bulk density of fabric"

Fig.10

Moisture permeability and fabric average pore diameter"

Fig.11

Moisture permeability and bulk density of fabric"

Fig.12

Relationship between water evaporation rate and bulk density (a) and surface porosity (b) of fabric"

Fig.13

Water evaporation rate of fabric"

Fig.14

Droplet diffusion area and surface porosity of fabric"

[1] 程宁波, 缪东洋, 王先锋, 等. 用于个人热湿舒适管理的功能纺织品研究进展[J]. 纺织学报, 2022, 43(10): 200-208.
doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210401609
CHENG Ningbo, MIAO Dongyang, WANG Xianfeng, et al. Research progress in functional textiles for personal thermal and wet comfort management[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2022, 43(10): 200-208.
doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210401609
[2] 钱娟, 谢婷, 张佩华, 等. 聚乙烯针织物的热湿舒适性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2022, 43(7): 60-66.
QIAN Juan, XIE Ting, ZHANG Peihua, et al. Thermal and wet comfort of polyethylene knitted fabrics[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2022, 43(7): 60-66.
[3] 徐广标, 邱茂伟, 王府梅. 精纺毛织物的孔隙与结构及透气性的关系[J]. 毛纺科技, 2005, 33(4): 14-17.
XU Guangbiao, QIU Maowei, WANG Fumei. The relationship between porosity, structure and air permeability of worsted fabrics[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2005, 33 (4): 14-17.
[4] 孙岑文捷, 倪军, 张昭华, 等. 针织运动服的通风设计与热湿舒适性评价[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(11): 122-127,135.
doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200200807
SUN Cen Wenjie, NI Jun, ZHANG Zhaohua, et al. Ventilation design and thermal and wet comfort evaluation of knitted sportswear[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(11): 122-127,135.
[5] MIAO Dongyang, WANG Xianfeng, YU Jianyong, et al. A biomimetic transpiration textile for highly efficient personal drying and cooling[J]. Advanced Functional Materials, 2021, 31(14): 1-10.
[6] 许瑞超, 张一平, 陈莉娜. 针织运动面料的差动毛细导湿性[J]. 纺织学报, 2007, 28(3): 20-22.
XU Ruichao, ZHANG Yiping, CHEN Lina. Differential capillary moisture conductivity of knitted sports fabrics[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2007, 28(3): 20-22.
[7] 翟孝瑜. 导湿快干针织运动面料的研究与开发[D]; 苏州: 苏州大学, 2007:13-17.
ZHAI Xiaoyu. Research and development of moisture conductive and fast drying knitted sports fabric[D]. Suzhou: Soochow University, 2007:13-17.
[8] 李小倩, 刘让同, 耿长军, 等. 织物的孔隙特征与透气透湿性研究[J]. 棉纺织技术, 2019, 47(11): 17-20.
LI Xiaoqian, LIU Rangtong, GENG Changjun, et al. Study on the pore characteristics and permeability of fabrics[J]. Cotton Textile Technology, 2019, 47(11): 17-20.
[9] 冯华峰, 刘晨, 王刚强, 等. 织物透气性计算方法的探究[J]. 毛纺科技, 2022, 50(6): 33-38.
FENG Huafeng, LIU Chen, WANG Gangqiang, et al. Research on the calculation method of fabric permeability[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2022, 50(6): 33-38.
[10] DAS A, YADAW S S. Study on moisture vapor transmission characteristics of woven fabrics from cotton acrylic bulked yarns[J]. Journal of the Textile Institute, 2013, 104(3): 322-329.
[11] 张文娟, 纪峰, 张瑞云, 等. 毛织物孔隙特征与透湿性关系[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(1): 67-72.
ZHANG Wenjuan, JI Feng, ZHANG Ruiyun, et al. Relationship between pore characteristics and moisture permeability of wool fabrics[J]. Journal of Textiles, 2019, 40(1): 67-72.
[12] 王玥, 王春红, 徐磊, 等. 三维导湿结构环保针织面料开发与吸湿速干性能评价[J]. 纺织学报, 2022, 43(10): 58-64.
doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210907907
WANG Yue, WANG Chunhong, XU Lei, et al. Development of environment-friendly knitted fabrics with three-dimensional moisture transmission structure and evaluation of moisture absorption and quick drying performance[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2022, 43(10): 58-64.
doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210907907
[13] 陈晴, 张家琳, 范丽敏. 经编间隔织物的透气性与透湿性[J]. 服装学报, 2017, 2(2): 107-112.
CHEN Qing, ZHANG Jialin, FAN Limin. Air permeability and moisture permeability of warp knitted spacer fabric[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2017, 2(2): 107-112.
[14] 陈晴, 张鑫, 孙思瑾, 等. 添纱纬编导湿快干面料的性能[J]. 服装学报, 2019, 4(1): 5-12.
CHEN Qing, ZHANG Xin, SUN Sijin, et al. Performance of weft added woven wet and fast drying fabrics[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2019, 4(1): 5-12.
[15] 楚鑫鑫, 肖红, 范杰. 织物凉感等级的主客观评价及确定[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(2): 105-113.
CHU Xinxin, XIAO Hong, FAN Jie. Subjective and objective evaluation and determination of fabric cooling sensation grade[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(2): 105-113.
[1] HE Fang, GUO Yan, HAN Chaoxu, LIU Mingshen, YANG Ruirui. Composite technology and properties of fabrics for automotive seat [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2024, 45(05): 79-84.
[2] FENG Ya, SUN Ying, CUI Yanchao, LIU Liangsen, ZHANG Hongliang, HU Junjun, JU Ao, CHEN Li. Interlaminar shear properties of composites with Ni-Cr alloy weft knitted electric heating layer [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2024, 45(04): 89-95.
[3] GE Huaifu, WU Wei, WANG Jian, XU Hong, MAO Zhiping. Application of methyl 5-(dimethylamino)-2-methyl-5-oxopentanoate in supercritical carbon dioxide fluid dyeing with disperse dyes [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2024, 45(01): 120-127.
[4] YAO Chenxi, WAN Ailan. Thermal and moisture comfort of polybutylene terephthalate/polyethylene terephthalate weft-knitted sports T-shirt fabrics [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2024, 45(01): 90-98.
[5] CHANG Chenyu, WANG Yuwei, YUAN Xuyang, LIU Feng, LU Zhiwen. Dynamic deformation simulation of weft knitted fabrics based on improved mass-spring model at interlacing points [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2024, 45(01): 99-105.
[6] ZHANG Luyang, SONG Haibo, MENG Jing, YIN Lanjun, LU Yehu. Influencing factors for thermal insulating properties of cotton gauze quilts [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2023, 44(07): 79-85.
[7] LIN Qisong, GAO Feng, LÜ Wangyang, CHEN Wenxing. Thickening behaviour and performance of titanium-based polyethylene terephthalate [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2022, 43(07): 9-16.
[8] RU Xin, ZHU Wanzhen, SHI Weimin, PENG Laihu. Deformation prediction and simulation of weft knitted fabrics with non-uniform density distribution [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2022, 43(06): 63-69.
[9] HU Xudong, SONG Yanfeng, RU Xin, PENG Laihu. Modeling and loop length reverse design for reducing diameter tubular weft knitted fabrics [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2021, 42(04): 80-84.
[10] PENG Laihu, LUO Chang, NIU Chong, LÜ Yongfa, HU Xudong, DAI Ning. Control technology for spandex yarn delivery in weft knitting [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2021, 42(04): 162-169.
[11] LIU Lidong, LI Xinrong, LIU Hanbang, LI Dandan. Electrostatic adsorption model based on characteristics of weft knitted fabrics [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2021, 42(03): 161-168.
[12] ZHANG Tengjialu, WU Wei, ZHONG Yi, MAO Zhiping, XU Hong. Effect of open width pretreatment on dyeing property of cotton knitted fabrics [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2021, 42(03): 9-13.
[13] SUN Yabo, LI Lijun, MA Chongqi, WU Zhaonan, QIN Yu. Simulation on tensile properties of tubular weft knitted fabrics based on ABAQUS [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2021, 42(02): 107-112.
[14] LIANG Jialu, CONG Honglian, ZHANG Aijun. Technical design model of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(01): 69-74.
[15] WEI Yanhong, LIU Xinjin, XIE Chunping, SU Xuzhong, ZHANG Zhongxi. Shape retention and wearing properties of polyester filament/cotton composite yarn twill fabrics [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(12): 39-44.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited
  Shared   
  Discussed   
No Suggested Reading articles found!
京ICP备14006648号
Copyright 2021 © Editorial office of Journal of Textile Research
Supported by Beijing Magtech Co.Ltd