Abstract:

Based on the conventional structure phase model of woven fabric fails to reflect the difference to different weaves, the constraints and the insufficiency of the model was analyzed, and the structure phase model capable of effcetive reflecting weave cinformation was also established. It was the first time to put forward the concept of the relative yarn wave highness, which is used to identify the bending status of yarn in different weaves, providing theoretical basis for the modification of the structure phase model. The results show that the structure phase from the modified model increases with the increases of the yarn wave highness, but the relationship between them is nonlinear. For different weave, the fabric structure phase is not fixed to form the equivalent support structure (except the phase 0), and the same yarn wave highness corresponds to the different structure phase value with the order relationship as plain ＜
twill ＜ satin. In the lower structure phase region, the structure phase has a nonlinear relationship with the yarn wave highness, therefore, in the higher structure phase region, the structure phase has a well fit between the modified model and the conventional model.

Key words: woven fabric, structure phase model, relative yarn wave highness, bending status of yarn