Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (06): 85-90.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180604206

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Design principle of secant line for whole garment sweater based on narrowing process

LI Ke, WU Zhiming()   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2018-06-11 Revised:2018-12-25 Online:2019-06-15 Published:2019-06-25
  • Contact: WU Zhiming E-mail:wxwuzm@163.com

Abstract:

In order to enrich the design of whole garment, the Shima seiki MACH2XS15312G four bed flat knitting machine was used as the experimental equipment, combined with the SDS-ONE APEX 3 design system to study the design principle of the whole garment dividing line. The principle of splitting line forming was discussed from three kinds of narrowing methods: the stitching process, the ratio-receiving process and the rotating process. The whole garment long-sleeve V-neck dress was taken as an example to discuss the application of the whole garment narrowing process to form the dividing line. The results show that the needle folding process is suitable for the forming of dart and pleating to form straight line segmentation. The ratio needle drawing process is used for armhole braiding to form curve segmentation, and the rotation technique is suitable for before and after size difference. At the same time, the problem of the damage of the knitting stitch and the unevenness of the seam after the stitching are solved by the barrel knitting process.

Key words: ratio narrowing, stacking needles, rotating process, secant-line, design principle, whole garment sequence of sweater

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.64

Fig.1

Body knitting ratio"

Fig.2

Schematic diagram of splicing"

Fig.3

Unilateral clockwise rotation process. (a) First row knitting; (b) Second row knitting; (c) Third row knitting; (d) Fourth row weaving"

Fig.4

Dart of the whole garment. (a) Shoulder dart of horizontal weaving;(b) Waist dart of longitudinal knitting"

Fig.5

Schematic diagram of pleat. (a) Flat pleat; (b) Converse pleat; (c) Box pleat"

Fig.6

Splicing design. (a) Application of splicing in collar; (b) Application of splicing in hem"

Fig.7

Sleeve holes of different body parts at different weaving rates"

Fig.8

Rotator cuff stitch"

Fig.9

Twist yarn ring"

Fig.10

Long V-neck dress"

Fig.11

Knitting process"

Fig.12

Sleeve mountain weaving ratio row number"

[1] 王敏, 丛洪莲, 蒋高明, 等. 四针床电脑横机的全成形工艺[J]. 纺织学报, 2017,38(4):61-67.
WANG Min, CONG Honglian, JIANG Gaoming, et al. Whole garment knitting process on four-bed computerized flat knitting machine[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2017,38(4):61-67.
[2] 彭佳佳, 蒋高明, 丛洪莲, 等. 全成形毛衫的结构与编织原理[J]. 纺织学报, 2017,38(11):48-55.
PENG Jiajia, JIANG Gaoming, CONG Honglian, et al. Structure and knitting principle of whole garment[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2017,38(11):48-55.
[3] 邱庄岩, 吴志明, 蒋高明. 全成形毛衫肩袖成形工艺[J]. 纺织学报, 2018,39(3):56-60,66.
QIU Zhuangyan, WU Zhiming, JIANG Gaoming. Forming process of shoulder and sleeves of whole garment[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2018,39(3):56-60,66.
[4] 龙海如. 针织学[M]. 北京: 中国纺织出版社, 2008: 160-161.
LONG Hairu. Knitting Technology[M]. Beijing: China Textile & Apparel Press, 2008: 160-161.
[5] 王敏. 四针床电脑横机的全成形工艺研究[D]. 无锡:江南大学, 2017: 22-23
WANG Min. The research of whole garment knitting process on four-needle beds computerized flat knitting machine[D]. Wuxi:Jiangnan University, 2017: 22-23.
[6] 吴小兵. 褶饰工艺技术在女装设计变化中的应用[J].丝绸, 2007(8):20-22.
WU Xiaobing. Application of pleating technology in women's wear design change[J].Journal of Silk, 2007(8):20-22.
[7] 姚晓林. 省和褶的局部编织实现[J]. 上海纺织科技, 2013,41(6):51-53.
YAO Xiaolin. Implementation method of dart and pleat by partially knitting technology[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2013,41(6):51-53.
[8] 汪立群. 服装分割线设计研究[D]. 北京:北京服装学院, 2007: 5-10.
WANG Liqun. The study on the panel styling design[D]. Beijing:Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology, 2007: 5-10
[9] 蒋红英. 服装褶纹元素的演变与立体构成方法探析[J]. 纺织学报, 2011,32(11):100-105.
JIANG Hongying. Historical development of garment pleats and three-dimensional shaping[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2011,32(11):100-105.
[10] 郭蓬. 分割线设计在女装造型中的应用研究[D]. 西安:西安工程大学, 2013: 5-15.
GUO Peng. The applied research of Panel Styling line in the costumes [D]. Xi'an:Xi'an Polytechnic University, 2013: 5-15.
[1] .   Slenderizing ability of warp knitted seamless tunic blouse [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2014, 35(3): 109-0.
[2] . Body classification of preschool girls from the lower region of the Yangtze River [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2013, 34(4): 111-116.
[3] . Factors influencing set-in sleeve techniques for warp knitted shaping garments [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2013, 34(1): 101-105.
[4] DONG Zhi-Jia, JIANG Gao-Ming. The shaping structure and design method of jacquard warp knitted seamless garment [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2012, 33(1): 102-106.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited

  Shared   
  Discussed   
No Suggested Reading articles found!