Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (09): 159-166.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20181005708

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Influence of sports bra structural elements on wearing comfort

CHEN Huixian1, LU Hong1,2(), LI Shuyang1, ZUO Heng1   

  1. 1. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
  • Received:2018-10-30 Revised:2019-06-12 Online:2019-09-15 Published:2019-09-23
  • Contact: LU Hong E-mail:luhong@dhu.edu.cn

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Abstract:

In order to explore the wearing comfort of sports bra's structural elements, 7 female volunteers with 75B types were measured by Martin measurement before and after wearing 6 sports bras with low, medium and high strength recommended. Static pressure test was conducted by the balloon pressure tester with subjective comfort assessment of nine pressure points on the chest, back, shoulder, side, and lower chest circumference of human body. Moreover, the changes of the displacement of the marking line at the lower webbing, shoulder strap, clip bending and neckline before and after the movement were observed. By the analysis, the low-intensity sports bra has higher comfort and smaller pressure at each point. But the high-intensity sports bra has more restraint on the left and right, and the anterior and posterior directions of the breast. The lower webbing and cup slip upward, the shoulder strap slip to the inside of the neck, the structure of the back and clip of the bra are stable with the smaller slip amount after the movement. The high-intensity sports bra should focus on optimizing the structural elements of the shoulder strap, the back clip bending curve and the lower webbing, reducing the pressure on the shoulder, the lower bust and the back, and improving the overall wearing comfort.

Key words: sports bra, structure element, pressure test, exercise intensity

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.17

Fig.1

Sports bra illustration. (a) Encapsulationsports bra; (b) Compression sports bras"

Tab.1

Structure elements of sports bra"

结构要素 结构参数
1 宽度(W1),围度(G),织带弹性(E1),内侧粗糙程度
2 罩杯结构(上下片、左右片、三维模杯、可拆卸杯垫),罩杯形状面积(全罩杯、3/4罩杯),杯垫厚度(T),罩杯深度(D),塑性变形率(Pr),弹性回复率(Er)
3 肩带宽度(W3),厚度(是否有夹层),肩带弹性模量(E3)
4 侧比高度(H4)
5 夹弯前后深度,夹弯弧线
6 后背高度(H6),结构(X型、H型、Y型、T型)
7 前心片高度(H7),领口造型(U型、V型)

Fig.2

Pictures of sports bras. (a) Low-intensity sports bra style 1#; (b) Low-intensity sports bra style 2#;(c) Medium-intensity sports bra style 3#; (d) Medium-intensity sports bra style 4#; (e) High-intensity sports bra style 5#; (f) High-intensity sports bra style 6#"

Tab.2

Fiber composition of sports bra"

文胸
编号		 面料 衬里 衬垫 松紧带
1# 84%聚酯纤维
16%氨纶		 90%聚酯纤维
10%氨纶		 60%聚酯纤维
40%聚氨酯		 69%聚酯纤维
31%氨纶
2# 80%锦纶
20%氨纶		 85%聚酯纤维
15%氨纶		 100%聚酯纤维 80%锦纶
20%氨纶
3# 90%聚酯纤维
10%氨纶		 76%锦纶
24%氨纶		 100%聚酯纤维 80%锦纶
20%氨纶
4# 83%聚酯纤维
17%氨纶		 81%锦纶
19%氨纶		 100%聚酯纤维 91%锦纶
9%氨纶
5# 90%聚酯纤维
10%氨纶		 74%聚酯纤维
26%氨纶		 100%聚酯纤维 80%锦纶
20%氨纶
6# 66%聚酯纤维
34%氨纶		 74%聚酯纤维
26%氨纶		 75%锦纶
25%氨纶		 87%锦纶
13%氨纶

Tab.3

Parameter of bra structure"

文胸
编号		 强度 W1/
cm		 G/
cm		 E1/
(N·mm-2)		 T/
cm		 D/
cm		 Pr/
%		 Er/
%		 W3/
cm		 H4/
cm		 H6/
cm		 H7/
cm
1# 低 3.0 66 0.408 0.554 1.9 27.87 72.13 4.0 9 23.0 13.0
2# 低 8.0 62 0.298 0.555 2.8 24.88 75.12 1.0 9 19.5 11.0
3# 中 3.8 67 0.364 0.702 3.7 18.25 81.57 2.5 6 22.0 11.0
4# 中 3.5 68 0.504 0.554 3.8 16.27 83.73 2.0 5 21.0 8.5
5# 高 3.7 67 0.327 0.682 3.7 22.83 77.17 2.5 7 20.5 13.0
6# 高 4.0 68 0.527 0.722 3.0 19.19 80.81 3.5 5 18.5 11.5

Fig.3

Bra cup breakdown structure. (a)Front structure;(b) Side stmcture"

Tab.4

Dimension of bra cup"

文胸
编号		 强
度		 MN/
cm		 L1/
cm		 NP/
cm		 L2/
cm		 PM/
cm		 L3/
cm		 H/
cm
1# 低 12.5 1.5 12.0 2.0 12.7 2.2 10.2
2# 低 12.7 3.0 14.5 2.7 9.2 -1.5 9.0
3# 中 14.5 6.0 14.0 2.0 8.5 0.5 8.0
4# 中 15.5 8.5 12.5 0.5 9.5 1.0 7.5
5# 高 14.5 5.5 14.0 2.0 8.5 0.5 7.8
6# 高 16.5 4.0 16.5 3.0 8.5 0.5 8.2

Tab.5

Basic information of volunteerscm"

受试者
编号		 身高 B1 U1 胸围差 D1 D2 P1
M1 163 88.0 74.5 13.5 18.5 3.2 19.0
M2 166 87.0 75.0 12.0 19.8 2.6 19.5
M3 164 87.5 75.5 12.0 19.3 2.1 20.0
M4 164 85.5 73.0 12.5 17.7 2.4 19.0
M5 165 86.0 73.0 13.0 17.2 3.6 17.9
M6 164 85.0 73.0 11.5 17.5 2.9 20.0
M7 165 84.5 73.0 11.5 17.1 3.0 19.0

Tab.6

Measure program of Martin measurement instrument"

测试项目 代号 定义 工具
胸围 B1 经过胸点水平围量一周的长度 卷尺
下胸围 U1 经过乳房下缘水平围量一周的长度 卷尺
乳点距离 P1 左右乳点之间的直线距离 杆状计
胸厚 D1 胸围线上前后最突出部位间平行于矢状面的水平直线距离 角度计
乳房深度 D2 前中心线与胸围线的交点到两乳点连线的垂直距离 深度计

Fig.4

Illustration of pressure points. (a) Front; (b) Back"

Tab.7

Instruction of pressure points"

标记点 具体
说明		 文胸
结构		 人体
部位
A 乳点垂直向下与下围织带的交点 胸
B 下围织带右侧点 下围织带 侧
C 后背肩胛骨垂直向下与织带的交点 背
D 肩带与肩膀接触的顶点 肩带 肩
E 夹弯右测点 夹弯 侧
F
G		 位于右乳房的下乳根围外侧
位于右乳房的下乳根围内侧		 罩杯 胸
H
I		 后背肩带顶点向下5 cm
后背夹弯弧线中间一点		 背部结构 背

Tab.8

Score of subjective pressure comfort degree"

非常
不
舒适		 极
不
舒
适		 很
不
舒
适		 较
不
舒
适		 一
般		 稍
舒
适		 较
舒
适		 很
舒
适		 极
舒
适		 非
常
舒
适
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Fig.5

Displacement marking area. (a) Front; (b) Back"

Tab.9

Instruction of displacement mark area"

标记区 具体说明 结构要素
R1 在运动文胸静态穿着舒适合体情况下,沿下围织带下边缘在人体围度上画一圈标记线作为基础测试线,观察运动后,标记线与织带下边缘的位置偏移情况 下围织带
R2 沿肩带和夹弯的外边缘画一圈基础线,根据运动后的位移情况观察肩带和夹弯的稳定性 肩带和夹弯
R3 沿前后领口弧线画一圈标记线,观察运动后前心片和后背设计的稳定性 前心片和后背结构
四边形
GFHF'		 以BP点为中心,分别在上下左右选取距离BP点5 cm的4 个参考点:G,F,H,F'。通过观察△GHF和△GHF'的变化来测定罩杯的稳定性 罩杯

Tab.10

Score of subjective exercise stability"

非常
不稳定		 极不
稳定		 很不
稳定		 较不
稳定		 一
般		 稍
稳
定		 较
稳
定		 很
稳
定		 极
稳
定		 非常
稳定
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Tab.11

Variation of chest size before and after wearing"

文胸
编号		 强度 胸围/
cm		 下胸围/
cm		 乳点距离/
cm		 乳房深度/
cm
1# 低 4.3 3.2 2.4 0.9
2# 低 2.4 2.9 1.8 0.4
3# 中 3.0 0.6 3.0 0.5
4# 中 2.7 0.9 3.3 0.4
5# 高 2.6 1.5 1.8 1.1
6# 高 2.7 0.9 2.9 0.9

Fig.6

Pressure value distribution box figure"

Tab.12

Scheffe multiple comparisons"

测试点 文胸编号
J		 文胸编号
K		 压力均值
差/kPa		 显著性
2# 2.300 0.000
B 1# 3# 1.283 0.032
4# 1.741 0.001
5# 1.377 0.017
2# -2.486 0.001
1# 3# -2.676 0.000
4# -2.244 0.004
D 5# -2.159 0.007
2# -1.944 0.013
6# 3 -2.134 0.005
4# -1.703 0.041
F 1# 3# -0.676 0.047
4# -0.980 0.001

Fig.7

Contrastive analysis of subjective and objective. (a) Pressure value; (b) Subjective score of pressure comfort"

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