Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (10): 73-78.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20181104106

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Transverse knitting method and forming process of fully formed sweater

WANG Pan, WU Zhiming()   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2018-11-15 Revised:2019-06-26 Online:2019-10-15 Published:2019-10-23
  • Contact: WU Zhiming E-mail:wxwuzm@163. com

RichHTML

6

PDF (PC)

127

Abstract:

In order to promote the design and development of fully formed sweater, the forming rule of fully formed sweater was studied by means of case analysis and experimentation on the basis of the four-bed computerized flat knitting machine and design system of SDS-ONE APPEX 3. According to the characteristics and advantages of full-formed transverse knitting, three most suitable styles were selected as research examples, and their process design methods and forming principles were analyzed. The feasibility of the theory was verified by the actual weaving on the machine. The results show that when the transverse knitting is adopted, both sides seam types of separates should be kept the same. When knitting upper garments, the lateral dimensions of sleeves and body can be greatly increased to achieve relaxed and random effects, and bat sleeves can be formed by sleeves and body knitting together and shoulder folding. When knitting lower garment, multi-weaving can be carried out at the hem to quickly increase the difference between waist and hem to form the wave effect.

Key words: knitting technology, fully formed sweater, transverse knitting method, forming process, four-bed computerized flat knitting machine

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.64

Fig.1

Shaping method of transverse knitting"

Fig.2

Main styles of transverse knitting. (a) Loose pullover; (b) Bat sleeve cardigan; (c) Trumpet skirt"

Fig.3

Four arrangements of J and S curves and treatment of collar. (a) J curve arrangement method; (b) S curve arrangement method"

Fig.4

Bat sleeve cardigan basic template and key parts"

Fig.5

Diagram of skirt belt with holes(a) and skirt lining belt (b)"

Fig.6

Diagram of loose pullover. (a) Knitting process; (b) Configuration of feeders; (c) Front of sample cloth; (d) Back of sample cloth"

Fig.7

Diagram of bat sleeve cardigan. (a) Knitting process; (b) Configuration of feeders; (c) Front of sample cloth; (d) Back of sample cloth"

Fig.8

Diagram of trumpet skirt. (a) Knitting process; (b) Configuration of feeders; (c) Front of sample cloth; (d) Back of sample cloth"

[1] 王敏. 四针床电脑横机的全成形工艺[J]. 纺织学报, 2017,38(4):62-63.
WANG Min. Whole garment knitting process on four-bed computerized flat knitting machine[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2017,38(4):62-63.
[2] 彭佳佳, 蒋高明, 卢致文, 等. 全成形毛衫在双针床电脑横机上的编织工艺[J]. 纺织学报, 2015,36(11):53-54.
PENG Jiajia, JIANG Gaoming, LU Zhiwen, et al. Technical study of whole garment on V-bed computerized flat knitting machine[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2015,36(11):53-54.
[3] 邱庄岩, 吴志明, 蒋高明. 全成形毛衫肩袖成形工艺[J]. 纺织学报, 2018,39(3):56-60,66.
QIU Zhuangyan, WU Zhiming, JIANG Gaoming. Forming process of shoulder and sleeves of whole garment[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2018,39(3):56-60,66.
[4] 彭佳佳, 蒋高明, 丛洪莲, 等. 全成形毛衫的结构与编织原理[J]. 纺织学报, 2017,38(11):48-55.
PENG Jiajia, JIANG Gaoming, CONG Honglian, et al. Structure and knitting principle of whole garment[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2017,38(11):48-55.
[5] 王敏. 四针床电脑横机全成形技术研究进展[J]. 纺织导报, 2016(9):96-100.
WANG Min. Recent research development on fully fashioned knitting technology of four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine[J]. China Textile Leader, 2016(9):96-100.
[6] 祝细. 电脑横机织可穿针织服装的编织工艺及其性能研究[D]. 天津:天津工业大学, 2011: 5-6.
ZHU Xi. Research of the knitting process and performance for knit&wear clothes on the domestic computerized flat knitting[D]. Tianjin: Tianjin Polytechnic University, 2011: 5-6.
[7] 黄林初. 国产电脑横机织可穿产品的编织研究[D]. 天津:天津工业大学, 2013: 10-12.
HUANG Linchu. Research of the knit & wear technology on the domestic computerized flat knitting machine[D]. Tianjin: Tianjin Polytechnic University, 2013: 10-12.
[8] 杨卫平. 全成形毛衫的结构与编织工艺研究[D]. 上海:东华大学, 2016: 22-29.
YANG Weiping. Investigation on structure and knitting technology of fully fashioned sweater[D]. Shanghai:Donghua University, 2016: 22-29.
[9] 罗璇, 蒋高明, 丛洪莲. 采用局部编织技术的毛衫特殊结构工艺与设计[J]. 纺织学报, 2016,37(2):55-60.
LUO Xuan, JIANG Gaoming, CONG Honglian. Process and design of woolen sweater special structure based on partial technology[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2016,37(2):55-60.
doi: 10.1177/004051756703700106
[10] 丛洪莲, 王迪. 针织毛衫袖型建模与工艺实现[J]. 纺织学报, 2014,35(8):70-74.
CONG Honglian, WANG Di. Modeling and technology realization of knitted sweater sleeve type[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2014,35(8):70-74.
[11] CHOI W, POWELL N B. The development of specialized knitted structures in the creation of resistdyed fabrics and garments[J]. Journal of The Textile Institute, 2008,99(3):253-264.
doi: 10.1080/00405000701404247
[1] LIU Bo, CONG Honglian. Process design and knitting principle of one-piece casual suits based on four-needle-bed flat knitting machine [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(04): 129-134.
[2] WANG Pan, WU Zhiming. Principle and application of partial knitting on fully formed sweater [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(05): 41-46.
[3] . Forming process of shoulder and sleeves of whole garment [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2018, 39(03): 56-60.
[4] . Developing status and tendency of knitting technology innovation [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2017, 38(12): 169-176.
[5] . Whole garment knitting process on four-bed computerized flat knitting machine [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2017, 38(04): 61-67.
[6] . Motion control and experiment analysis of high speed axial suspension knitting needle in zero transmission [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2016, 37(4): 137-142.
[7] . Process and  design of woolen sweater special structure based on partial technology [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2016, 37(2): 55-60.
[8] YAO Xiaolin. Application of paper pattern to the knitting technology of sweater [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2008, 29(9): 98-102.
[9] LI Xiaoying;SHEN Lei. Design and making of varied weaves of computerized flat knitted fabric [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2008, 29(5): 34-38.
[10] QIN Zhigang;LONG Hairu;MA Xiaohong. Analysis of knitting technologies of warp knitted glass fiber fabrics [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2008, 29(5): 46-50.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited
  Shared   
  Discussed   
No Suggested Reading articles found!
京ICP备14006648号
Copyright 2021 © Editorial office of Journal of Textile Research
Supported by Beijing Magtech Co.Ltd