Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (10): 48-55.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20181000708

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Properties of soft-spun viscose hard-twist yarn and fabric thereof

XU Duo1, WEI Jiang2, MEI Jianxiang2, ZHANG Xinling3, ZHANG Youqing4, XU Weilin1, LIU Keshuai1()   

  1. 1. Key Laboratory of Green Processing and Functional Textiles of New Textile Materials, Ministry of Education, Wuhan Textile University, Wuhan, Hubei 430073, China
    2. Wuhan Yudahua Textile and Garment Co., Ltd., Wuhan, Hubei 430415, China
    3. Hubei Fiber Inspection Bureau, Wuhan, Hubei 433100, China
    4. Texwinca Holdings Co., Ltd., Dongguan, Guangdong 523138, China
  • Received:2018-10-08 Revised:2019-05-14 Online:2019-10-15 Published:2019-10-23
  • Contact: LIU Keshuai E-mail:1141552467@qq.com

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Abstract:

In order to better explore the improvement of the viscose hard twist yarn and the wearability of its woven fabrics, yarn uniformity, hairiness, yarn strength, contraction rate and apparent structure of soft-spun and ring-spun viscose hard twist yarn were tested and compared under the same process parameters. The strength, bursting properties, tearing properties, air permeability, moisture permeability, softness and pilling resistance of the same specifications of soft-spun and ring-spun viscose fabrics were tested. The results show that the soft-spun viscose hard twist yarn has less hairiness, uniform strips, high strength and low contraction rate. Moreover, compared with the spun viscose fabrics, the soft-spun viscose woven fabric has significantly improved in tensile strength, bursting performance, tearing property, air permeability and moisture permeability, softness and pilling resistance, but the hygroscopicity is lowered. The soft-spun viscose hard twist yarn has the characteristics of smoothness, neatness and firmness, and the comprehensive wearability of the soft-spun fabric is superior to that of the ring-spun one.

Key words: soft spinning, viscose, hard twist yarn, yarn property, fabric property

CLC Number: 

  • TS104

Fig.1

Model diagram of soft spinning"

Fig.2

Stress analysis of soft spinning section model"

Tab.1

Process parameters of viscose hard twist yarn woven fabric"

试样纺
纱方式		 面密度/
(g·m-2)		 经密/(根·(10 cm)-1) 捻度/
(捻·(10 cm)-1)
经向 纬向
环锭纺 103 180 221 150
柔洁纺 105 182 222 150

Tab.2

Basic performance of viscose hard twist yarn"

名称 纺纱
方法		 3 mm毛羽
根数		 3 mm毛羽
CV值/%		 断裂强
力/cN		 断裂伸
长率/%		 断裂强力
CV值/%		 条干
CV值/%		 +140%棉结/
(个·km-1)		 +200%棉结/
(个·km-1)
管纱 环锭纺 80.28 61.17 283.51 11.59 9.51 12.11 195 55
柔洁纺 20.94 126.52 310.52 12.89 9.75 11.31 101 25
筒纱 环锭纺 92.83 13.98 279.23 11.81 6.50 12.11 240 70
柔洁纺 46.17 32.14 297.04 12.11 8.32 11.59 122 35

Fig.3

Apparent SEM images of ring-spun(a) and soft-spun(b)viscose hard twist yarn(×50)"

Fig.4

Infrared spectram of ring-spunand soft-spun yarn viscose hard twist yarn"

Fig.5

Testing results of untwisting length ring-spun(a) and soft-spun(b)viscose hard twist yarn"

Tab.3

Results of fabric tensile strength tear, strength fabric and burst strength test"

织物
纺纱
方式		 纬向拉
伸强
力/N		 伸长
率/%		 断裂
时间/
s		 经向撕
裂强
力/N		 顶破
强力/
N		 预破
伸长
率/%		 顶破
时间/
s
环锭纺 99.3 11.30 6.79 18.32 286.43 60.63 24.21
柔洁纺 105.8 13.90 8.36 20.15 313.92 60.94 24.34

Tab.4

Test results of fabric thickness and stiffness"

织物纺
纱方式		 伸出长
度/mm		 弯曲长
度/mm		 弯曲刚度/
(cN·cm)		 厚度/
mm
环锭纺 18.20 9.10 7.61×10-5 0.24
柔洁纺 16.06 8.03 4.28×10-5 0.23

Fig.6

Capillary effect of viscose hard twist yarn fabric with different time. (a) Ring-spun viscose yarn fabricat 15 min;(b)Ring-spun viscose yarn fabric at 30 min; (c) Soft-spun viscose yarn fabric at 15 min; (d) Soft-spun viscose yarn fabric at 30 min"

Fig.7

Test result of anti-pilling effect of viscose hard twist yarn fabric. (a) Front view of ring-spun viscose yarn fabric;(b) Side view of ring-spun viscose yarn fabric;(c) Front view of soft-spun viscose yarn fabric;(d) Side view of soft-spun viscose yarn fabric"

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