Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (11): 151-154.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20181001804

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Correlation between change of shoulders' structure and armhole angle in lady's wear

LI Yang, SHEN Hong, WU Jing()   

  1. College of Biomass Science and Engineering, Sichuan University, Chengdu, Sichuan 610065, China
  • Received:2018-10-10 Revised:2019-07-25 Online:2019-11-15 Published:2019-11-26
  • Contact: WU Jing E-mail:491588023@qq.com

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Abstract:

In order to provide theoretical basis for the design of shoulder structure, explore the relationship between the shoulder structure and the armhole structure in lady's wear and establish a theoretical research model a three-dimensional cutting method was adopted, and different thickness of shoulder pads were adopted to change the shoulder slope to thereby change the shoulders' structure. By the three-dimensional to two-dimensional transformation, the shoulder slope and the angle of the armhole were accurately measured on the flat developing drawings of the garment pieces, and the data correlation was analyzed. By making ready-to-wear garments, the conventional proportional method was compared with the method using the experimental results. It is concluded that a linear correlation exists between the shoulder pad thickness and the shoulder slope; the change of the shoulders' structure in lady's wear affects the angle of the armhole, and the shoulder slope is linearly related to the angle of the armhole. The results showed that by adopting the linear correlation into the design of structure of lady's wear, the ready-to-wear garments are fitter than those by the conventional proportional method.

Key words: lady's wear design, shoulders' structure, armhole structure, armhole angle, shoulder slope

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.17

Fig.1

Fitted pieces with different thicknesses of shoulder pads"

Fig.2

Method for measuring shoulder slopes and armhole angles"

Tab.1

Shoulder slopes and armhole angles of P1~ P6"

编号 垫肩厚度/cm 肩斜度/(°) 袖窿夹角/(°)
P1 0 20 25
P2 0.5 15 22
P3 1.0 12 20
P4 1.5 10 18
P5 2.0 9 15
P6 2.5 7 13

Fig.3

Correlation analysis between shoulder slopes and shoulder pads thicknesses"

Fig.4

Correlation analysis between armhole angles and shoulder slopes"

Tab.2

Garment shoulder slopes and armhole angles of T1~ T5"

编号 身高/m 体重/kg 人体肩斜度/(°) 衣身肩斜度/(°) 袖窿夹角/(°)
T1
T2		 1.70
1.72		 52
53		 24
19		 21
20		 27
26
T3 1.68 50 17 19 25
T4 1.67 48 20 20 26
T5 1.68 48 18 19 25
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