Journal of Textile Research ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (09): 108-113.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20191203107

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Development of automatic pattern generation system for Asian men's suits

LING Yali1,2, ZHU Lingxuan1,2, SHAO Xiaoxuan1,2, LI Zehui1,2, ZHONG Anhua1,2()   

  1. 1. School of Fashion, Wuhan Textile University, Wuhan, Hubei 430073, China
    2. Laboratory of Virtual Simulation in Hubei Province, Wuhan, Hubei 430073, China
  • Received:2019-12-13 Revised:2020-06-18 Online:2020-09-15 Published:2020-09-25
  • Contact: ZHONG Anhua E-mail:2512159766@qq.com

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Abstract:

In order to satisfy the requirements for smart pattern making, an automatic generation system for suits' pattern was developed. Firstly, 30 classic men's suits of 10 brands in Asia were selected for study. Based on the 16 detailed size data of the suits, the principal component factor analysis, correlation analysis and regression analysis were carried out using SPSS. Based on the regression equation obtained from the analysis, the parameterized design mathematical model of the suit pattern was established. MatLab was used as the platform of programming to develop the automatic pattern generation system, combining the mathematical model of the suit pattern of the suit and the method of plate making. The results show that bust is the key parameter that affects the suits' pattern, and the correlation between front length, back length, waist circumference, hem circumference and bust is the strongest. The parameterized mathematical model based on bust as an independent variable can be used to program the automatic pattern generation system of suit pattern, and the optimized automatic pattern generation system is able to output the suit pattern by inputting the size of the bust, facilitating initially the automatic generation of the basic pattern of men's suits.

Key words: Asian men's suits, suit pattern, parametric design, automatic generation system

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.2

Tab.1

Rotation component matrix"

指标 成分
1 2 3 4 5 6
胸围 0.899 0.044 -0.113 0.194 0.175 0.046
下摆围 0.892 -0.036 0.025 0.079 0.327 0.097
后衣长 0.829 0.134 0.334 -0.192 -0.096 -0.099
前衣长 0.781 0.066 0.514 -0.093 -0.091 -0.024
腰围 0.605 0.286 -0.122 0.189 0.320 0.098
驳嘴宽度 0.024 0.920 0.207 0.069 0.055 -0.136
驳头宽度 0.088 0.778 0.261 -0.068 -0.270 0.107
口袋高度 0.152 0.736 -0.171 -0.086 0.133 0.277
后领口尺寸 -0.023 0.144 0.814 0.004 0.353 0.051
前底领宽 0.391 0.118 0.558 0.546 -0.026 0.263
胸省长度 0.252 0.190 0.520 0.003 0.253 0.436
后翻领宽 -0.032 0.081 0.157 0.877 -0.222 -0.139
后底领宽 0.081 -0.163 -0.168 0.837 0.081 0.130
肩宽 0.180 0.008 0.213 -0.073 0.839 0.187
口袋长度 0.270 -0.125 0.278 -0.150 0.580 -0.352
驳头直线长度 0.010 0.076 0.126 0.029 0.020 0.914

Tab.2

Total variance of interpretation"

公因子 特征值 方差百分比/% 累积百分比/%
1 4.771 29.819 29.819
2 2.233 13.956 43.774
3 2.013 12.583 56.357
4 1.549 9.678 66.036
5 1.267 7.922 73.957
6 1.005 6.280 80.237
7 0.772 4.825 85.061
8 0.737 4.608 89.669
9 0.480 3.001 92.670
10 0.357 2.231 94.901
11 0.244 1.523 96.424
12 0.210 1.310 97.734
13 0.153 0.955 98.688
14 0.105 0.659 99.348
15 0.070 0.436 99.783
16 0.035 0.217 100.000

Tab.3

Regression model coefficients and coefficient estimates"

因变量 自变量 非标准化系数 标准系数 T检验值 Sig.
(显著性)		 共线性统计
容许
(1/VIF)		 VIF
(方差膨胀因子)
回归系数 标准错误 标准回归系数
前衣长 常量 54.456 4.924 11.059 0.000
胸围 0.176 0.047 0.586 3.761 0.001 1.000 1.000
后衣长 常量 50.291 5.201 9.669 0.000
胸围 0.206 0.049 0.626 4.173 0.000 1.000 1.000
腰围 常量 45.846 13.745 3.335 0.002
胸围 0.479 0.130 0.577 3.674 0.001 1.000 1.000
下摆围 常量 47.434 5.820 8.151 0.000
胸围 0.569 0.055 0.893 10.314 0.000 1.000 1.000

Fig.1

Basic pattern of men's suit and coordinates of each control point"

Tab.4

Coordinate parameters of each control point of men's suit type"

坐标点 坐标参数
P1 [(x-5)/4,0.58(0.206x+50.291)-1/3×x/12]
P2 [(x-5)/4,0.58(0.206x+50.291)-1/3×x/12-　　　　　　(x/6+4.5)2]
P3 [(x-5)/4-1,0.58(0.206x+50.291)-1/3×x/12-(x/6+4.5)/2]
P4 [(x-5)/4-2,0]
P5 [(x-5)/4-2,-0.42(0.206x+50.291)]
? ?
P39 [-(x-5)/4-9,-8]
P40 [-(x-5)/4+9+15,-7]
P41 [-(x-5)/4+9+15,-12]
P42 [-(x-5)/4+9,-13]

Fig.2

Automatic generation interface of men's suit pattern"

Tab.5

Comparison of automatic generation system plate making and garment size"

款式编号 来源 胸围/cm 前衣长/cm 后衣长/cm 腰围/cm 下摆围/cm
1 A 98 71.5 70 92 103
B 71.704 70.479 92.788 103.196
2 A 104 72 71.5 94 108
B 72.76 71.715 95.662 106.61
3 A 110 73 72.5 98 110
B 73.816 72.951 98.536 110.024
4 A 116 75 74.3 102 112
B 74.872 74.187 101.41 113.438

Fig.3

Comparison of automatic generation system platemaking and Fuyi CAD plate making comparison"

Fig.4

Adjusted automatic generation interface of men's suit pattern"

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