亚洲男士西服基本纸样自动生成系统的建立

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191203107

Abstract

Abstract:

In order to satisfy the requirements for smart pattern making, an automatic generation system for suits' pattern was developed. Firstly, 30 classic men's suits of 10 brands in Asia were selected for study. Based on the 16 detailed size data of the suits, the principal component factor analysis, correlation analysis and regression analysis were carried out using SPSS. Based on the regression equation obtained from the analysis, the parameterized design mathematical model of the suit pattern was established. MatLab was used as the platform of programming to develop the automatic pattern generation system, combining the mathematical model of the suit pattern of the suit and the method of plate making. The results show that bust is the key parameter that affects the suits' pattern, and the correlation between front length, back length, waist circumference, hem circumference and bust is the strongest. The parameterized mathematical model based on bust as an independent variable can be used to program the automatic pattern generation system of suit pattern, and the optimized automatic pattern generation system is able to output the suit pattern by inputting the size of the bust, facilitating initially the automatic generation of the basic pattern of men's suits.

Key words: Asian men's suits, suit pattern, parametric design, automatic generation system

CLC Number:

TS941.2

LING Yali, ZHU Lingxuan, SHAO Xiaoxuan, LI Zehui, ZHONG Anhua. Development of automatic pattern generation system for Asian men's suits[J].Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(09): 108-113.

Figures/Tables 9

Tab.1

Tab.2

Tab.3

Fig.1

Tab.4

Fig.2

Tab.5

Fig.3

Fig.4

References 14

[1]	张伶俐, 张皋鹏. 应用MatLab的服装纸样参数化平面制版[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(1):130-135.
	ZHANG Lingli, ZHANG Gaopeng. Parametric flat pattern design for clothing based on MatLab[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(1):130-135.
[2]	刘雁, 耿兆丰. 智能技术在服装工业生产中的应用研究[J]. 东华大学学报(自然科学版), 2002, 28(4):124-127.
	LIU Yan, GENG Zhaofeng. Applications of intelligence in garment industry[J]. Journal of Donghua Univer-sity(Natural Science), 2002, 28(4):124-127.
[3]	王秀芝, 徐静. 关于开发服装纸样计算机自动生成专家系统的设想[J]. 科技资讯, 2007(8):92.
	WANG Xiuzhi, XU Jing. The idea of developing an expert system for automatic generation of garment pattern by computer[J]. Science & Technology Information, 2007(8):92.
[4]	胡长鹏, 张巨俭, 刘瑞璞. 基于VLISP和OpenDCL的西装智能CAD系统的实现[J]. 天津工业大学学报, 2010(5):33-36.
	HU Changpeng, ZHANG Jujian, LIU Ruipu. Realization of intelligent CAD systems of suits production based on VLISP and OpenDCL[J]. Journal of Tiangong University, 2010(5):33-36.
[5]	刘为敏, 谢红. BP神经网络下的智能化合体服装样板生成[J]. 纺织学报, 2018, 39(7):116-121.
	LIU Weimin, XIE Hong. Generation of intelligent fitting pattern based on BP neural network[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2018, 39(7):116-121.
[6]	戴建国. 男装结构设计[M]. 杭州: 浙江大学出版社, 2005:118-120.
	DAI Jianguo. Pattern making for man's wear design[M]. Hangzhou: Zhejiang University Press, 2005:118-120.
[7]	夏明, 张文斌. 定制服装样板快速生成技术研究[J]. 纺织科技进展, 2006(1):83-85.
	XIA Ming, ZHANG Wenbin. Research on quick creating technology of creation sampler[J]. Progress in Textile Science & Technology, 2006(1):83-85.
[8]	吴尚. 定制男西裤样板的智能化成形研究[D]. 苏州:苏州大学, 2018: 48-50.
	WU Shang. Intelligent pattern forming reasearch on custom male's trousers[D]. Suzhou: Soochow University, 2018: 48-50.
[9]	陆鑫. 基于特征的服装制版系统参数化设计的实现[J]. 纺织学报, 2006, 27(12):62-65.
	LU Xin. Parameterized pattern design system based on body shape features[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2006, 27(12):62-65.
[10]	刘玉玉. 基于C#的西装纸样自动生成系统的研究[J]. 软件, 2012(33):10.
	LIU Yuyu. Suit pattern automatically generated system based on C#[J]. Software, 2012(33):10.
[11]	朱江晖, 阎玉秀. 女套装上衣尺寸自动生成系统的建立[J]. 纺织学报, 2011, 32(9):142-146.
	ZHU Jianghui, YAN Yuxiu. Development of auto-generation system of pattern sizes[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2011, 32(9):142-146.
[12]	刘瑞璞. 服装纸样设计原理与应用[M]. 北京: 中国纺织出版社, 2008: 130-145.
	LIU Ruipu. The principles & practices of pattern design[M]. Beijing: China Textile & Apparel Press, 2008:130-145.
[13]	王竹君, 邢英梅. 基于BP网络的西服袖样板尺寸自动生成方法研究[J]. 河南工程学院学报, 2012(4):22-27.
	WANG Zhujun, XING Yingmei. Research on auto-generation method of pattern sizes of suit sleeve based on BP artifical neutral network[J]. Journal of Henan Institute of Engineering, 2012(4):22-27.
[14]	孙福玉. MATLAB程序设计教程[M]. 呼和浩特: 远方出版社, 2008: 200-218.
	SUN Fuyu. MatLab programming tutorial[M]. Hohhot: Yuanfang Press, 2008: 200-218.

Metrics

Viewed

Full text

166

HTML			PDF

Just accepted	Online first	Issue	Just accepted	Online first	Issue
0	0	14	0	0	152

From	Others	local

Times	13	153
Rate	8%	92%

Abstract

622

Just accepted	Online first	Issue

0	0	622

From	Others	local

Times	143	479
Rate	23%	77%

Cited

Web of Science	Crossref	ScienceDirect	Search for Citations in Google Scholar >>


This page requires you have already subscribed to WoS.

Shared

Discussed

Comments

Recommended 0

No Suggested Reading articles found!

指标	成分
指标	1	2	3	4	5	6
胸围	0.899	0.044	-0.113	0.194	0.175	0.046
下摆围	0.892	-0.036	0.025	0.079	0.327	0.097
后衣长	0.829	0.134	0.334	-0.192	-0.096	-0.099
前衣长	0.781	0.066	0.514	-0.093	-0.091	-0.024
腰围	0.605	0.286	-0.122	0.189	0.320	0.098
驳嘴宽度	0.024	0.920	0.207	0.069	0.055	-0.136
驳头宽度	0.088	0.778	0.261	-0.068	-0.270	0.107
口袋高度	0.152	0.736	-0.171	-0.086	0.133	0.277
后领口尺寸	-0.023	0.144	0.814	0.004	0.353	0.051
前底领宽	0.391	0.118	0.558	0.546	-0.026	0.263
胸省长度	0.252	0.190	0.520	0.003	0.253	0.436
后翻领宽	-0.032	0.081	0.157	0.877	-0.222	-0.139
后底领宽	0.081	-0.163	-0.168	0.837	0.081	0.130
肩宽	0.180	0.008	0.213	-0.073	0.839	0.187
口袋长度	0.270	-0.125	0.278	-0.150	0.580	-0.352
驳头直线长度	0.010	0.076	0.126	0.029	0.020	0.914

公因子	特征值	方差百分比/%	累积百分比/%
1	4.771	29.819	29.819
2	2.233	13.956	43.774
3	2.013	12.583	56.357
4	1.549	9.678	66.036
5	1.267	7.922	73.957
6	1.005	6.280	80.237
7	0.772	4.825	85.061
8	0.737	4.608	89.669
9	0.480	3.001	92.670
10	0.357	2.231	94.901
11	0.244	1.523	96.424
12	0.210	1.310	97.734
13	0.153	0.955	98.688
14	0.105	0.659	99.348
15	0.070	0.436	99.783
16	0.035	0.217	100.000

因变量	自变量	非标准化系数			标准系数	T检验值	Sig. (显著性)	共线性统计
		非标准化系数			标准系数			容许 (1/VIF)	VIF (方差膨胀因子)
		回归系数	标准错误	标准回归系数
		前衣长	常量	54.456	4.924					11.059	0.000
胸围	0.176	前衣长	0.047	0.586		3.761	0.001	1.000	1.000
后衣长	常量	50.291	5.201			9.669	0.000
后衣长	胸围	0.206	0.049	0.626		4.173	0.000	1.000	1.000
腰围	常量	45.846	13.745			3.335	0.002
腰围	胸围	0.479	0.130	0.577		3.674	0.001	1.000	1.000
下摆围	常量	47.434	5.820			8.151	0.000
下摆围	胸围	0.569	0.055	0.893		10.314	0.000	1.000	1.000

坐标点	坐标参数
P₁	$[(x - 5) / 4,0.58 (0.206 x + 50.291) - 1 / 3 × x / 12]$
P₂	$[(x - 5) / 4,0.58 (0.206 x + 50.291) - 1 / 3 × x / 12 - (x / 6 + 4.5) 2]$
P₃	$[(x - 5) / 4 - 1,0.58 (0.206 x + 50.291) - 1 / 3 × x / 12 - (x / 6 + 4.5) / 2]$
P₄	$[(x - 5) / 4 - 2,0]$
P₅	$[(x - 5) / 4 - 2, - 0.42 (0.206 x + 50.291)]$
?	?
P₃₉	$[- (x - 5) / 4 - 9, - 8]$
P₄₀	$[- (x - 5) / 4 + 9 + 15, - 7]$
P₄₁	$[- (x - 5) / 4 + 9 + 15, - 12]$
P₄₂	$[- (x - 5) / 4 + 9, - 13]$

款式编号	来源	胸围/cm	前衣长/cm	后衣长/cm	腰围/cm	下摆围/cm
1	A	98	71.5	70	92	103
1	B	98	71.704	70.479	92.788	103.196
2	A	104	72	71.5	94	108
2	B	104	72.76	71.715	95.662	106.61
3	A	110	73	72.5	98	110
3	B	110	73.816	72.951	98.536	110.024
4	A	116	75	74.3	102	112
4	B	116	74.872	74.187	101.41	113.438

Development of automatic pattern generation system for Asian men's suits

RichHTML

PDF (PC)

Abstract

Cite this article

share this article

Figures/Tables 9

References 14

Related Articles 3

Metrics

Comments

Recommended 0

[1]	CHEN Mi, YE Qinwen, ZHANG Gaopeng. Construction of parametric structure model for bias-cut skirt pattern [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(07): 135-140.
[2]	. Design and application of three-dimensional parametric technology in construction of new forms of modern clothing [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2018, 39(12): 118-123.
[3]	. Improvement of electrospun membrane uniformity by non-circular gear traverse mechanism [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2015, 36(07): 116-120.