Journal of Textile Research ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (09): 76-80.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20191000205

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Sleeve-body connection technique for segmentation design of whole-garment flat-sleeve sweaters

CHEN Xi, MIAO Xuhong(), NIU Li, HAN Xiaoxue, JIANG Gaoming   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University,Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2019-10-08 Revised:2020-04-25 Online:2020-09-15 Published:2020-09-25
  • Contact: MIAO Xuhong E-mail:miaoxuhong@163.com

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Abstract:

In order to develop whole-garment sweaters that meet the market demand by using the four-needle-bed flat knitting machine, this paper describes a segmental design method for sleeve-body connection taking the flat-sleeve sweater as an example. The process of whole-garment flat-sleeve sweater at the joint of sleeve and body was divided into three parts: sleeve-top and armhole narrow at the same time, sleeve-top narrows while armhole flat knit, flat sleeve-top narrows while armhole widens after flat knit. If the height difference between the sleeve-top and the armhole is large, a larger knitting ratio was used to compensate for the difference in the number of turns by knitting more body rows. The difference in curvature between the sleeve-top and the armhole of sweater was adjusted by increasing the narrowing number in the sleeve-top. According to the technological parameters of the sleeve-body of the sweater and the structural differences between the sleeve-top and the armhole, the knitting process of the sleeve-body joint of the whole-garment sweater has been developed, enabling the sweater to fit the body curve.

Key words: whole-garment knitting, flat-sleeve sweater, sleeve-body connection, knitting ratio, process of narrowing and widening

CLC Number: 

  • TS184.5

Fig.1

Sleeve-body connection shape of flat-sleeve sweater"

Fig.2

Sleeve-body connection segmentation design"

Tab.1

Number of stitches and revolutions in each part at joint of sleeve and body"

部位 部位尺寸/cm 针数/转数
胸宽针数w1 42.0 278
前上胸宽针数w2 32.0 212
肩宽针数w3 34.0 224
夹深转数d 18.6 164
袖宽针数e 14.5 96
接肩针数f 6.0 40
袖山高转数g 12.0 108
袖山/袖窿转数差h — 56

Fig.3

Schematic diagram of process parameters at joint of sleeve and body"

Fig.4

Knitting diagram (a) and result diagram (b) of sleeve-top narrows and armhole widens"

Fig.5

Knitting diagram (a) and result diagram (b) of sleeve-top narrows and armhole flat-knitting"

Fig.6

Sweater structure with different knitting ratios"

Fig.7

Knitting diagram (a) and result diagram (b) of sleeve-top and armhole narrow at the same time"

Fig.8

Diagram at joint of sleeve and body"

Tab.2

Knitting process table at joint of sleeve and body"

部段 编织
转数		 收放针
针数		 收放针
工艺		 袖身
编织比率		 平袖山编
收比率
A a1 92 32 2-2-13
4-2-2
6-2-1		 1:1 —
a2 平52
a'1 32 2-2-1
4-2-2
a'2 6-2-5
8-2-4
6-2-2
a'3 4-2-2
B b 32 0 平32 2:4:3 —
b' 24 4-3-8
C c1 40 6 平16 — 0:1:1
c2 4+1+6
c' 40 2-2-20

Fig.9

Diagram of whole-garment flat-sleeve sweater"

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