Journal of Textile Research ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (04): 184-190.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200405907

• Comprehensive Review • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Progress in garment ease design and its modeling methods

ZHANG Yijie1,2, LI Tao1, LÜ Yexin1, DU Lei1,3, ZOU Fengyuan1,3()   

  1. 1. School of Fashion Design & Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
    2. Shangyu College, Shaoxing University, Shaoxing, Zhejiang 312300, China
    3. Apparel Engineering Research Center of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
  • Received:2020-04-20 Revised:2020-09-03 Online:2021-04-15 Published:2021-04-20
  • Contact: ZOU Fengyuan E-mail:zfy166@zstu.edu.cn

RichHTML

12

PDF (PC)

174

Abstract:

In order to reveal the relationship between garment ease allowance and virtual try-on even garment pattern design, the influencing factors of ease allowance, research methods and representation were reviewed and analyzed. The characteristics of ease allowance representation methods were summarized, and the latest research progress in ease representation models were scrutinized in particular. The effect of garment ease in virtual try-on and pattern design were further analyzed, respectively. It shows that the effective garment ease design should consider the factors of human body's dress form, clothing fit and comfort. The direct and indirect representation methods reflect the relationship between clothing and human body from different perspectives. The combination of ease allowance with garment virtual try-on and pattern design is effective to promote the authenticity of virtual try-on and facilitate intelligent design of clothing. The review indicates that three-dimensional spatial representation, continuous dynamic distribution and the construction of three-dimensional prediction models of ease allowance are regarded as the main research directions in garment ease in the future.

Key words: garment ease, representation model, virtual try-on, garment pattern design, 3-D garment CAD

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.26

Fig.1

Relations of influence factors on garment ease allowance design"

Fig.2

Ease allowance parameters"

Fig.3

Three-dimensional garment vector field"

Fig.4

Dynamic air layer under the movement of protective clothing"

Fig.5

Mechanical contact model of clothing and human body by finite element method. (a) Clothing external and internal force based on shell theory; (b) Boundary points in human body and garment under mechanical model"

Fig.6

Ease allowance and three-dimensional garment design"

[1] KIM I H, NAM Y J, HAN H. A quantification of the preferred ease allowance for the men's formal jacket patterns[J]. Fashion and Textiles, 2019,6(5):1-17.
[2] PHELPS H L, WATT S D, SIDHU H S, et al. Using phase change materials and air gaps in designing firefighting suits: a mathematical investigation[J]. Fire Technology, 2019,55(1):363-381.
[3] DU C Q, LI B Z, YU W. Moisture in clothing and its transient influence on human thermal responses through clothing microenvironment in cold environments in winter[J]. Building and Environment, 2019,15(6):1-12.
[4] CHOI M S. Simulation on silhouette variations according to vacant space quantity between body and clothing-focused on men's upper body[J]. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 2005,7(2):225-230.
[5] 刘正, 李基拓, 陆国栋. 着装间隙量空间形态分布研究及其应用综述[J]. 计算机辅助设计与图形学学报, 2012,24(10):1294-1301.
LIU Zheng, LI Jituo, LU Guodong. Review on 3D allocation of ease allowance and its application in garment design[J]. Journal of Computer Aided Design & Computer Graphics, 2012,24(10):1294-1301.
[6] GILL S. Improving garment fit and function through ease quantification[J]. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 2011,15(2):228-241.
[7] GILL S, HAYES S. Lower body functional ease requirements in the garment pattern[J]. International Journal of Fashion Design Technology and Education, 2012,5(1):13-23.
[8] PARK S H, LEE E H. A comparative study on the ease of men's jackets according to the pattern draft[J]. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 2013,19(2):112-127.
[9] MERT E, PSIKUTA A, BUENO M A, et al. The effect of body postures on the distribution of air gap thickness and contact area[J]. International Journal of Biometeorology, 2017,61(2):363-375.
doi: 10.1007/s00484-016-1217-9 pmid: 27522664
[10] CHOI J, KIM H, KANG B, et al. Analysis of clothing air gap in a protective suit according to the body pos-tures[J]. Journal of Fiber Bioengineering and Informatics, 2014,7(4):573-581.
[11] 徐继红, 张文斌, 肖平. 人体与服装特征曲面间面积松量的分配关系[J]. 纺织学报, 2008,29(5):102-106.
XU Jihong, ZHANG Wenbin, XIAO Ping. Area ease distribution relationship between the body and gar-ment[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2008,29(5):102-106.
[12] 李涛, 杜磊, 孙洁, 等. 短裤特征截面廓形分析及间隙量预测模型构建[J]. 纺织学报, 2019,40(5):113-118.
LI Tao, DU Lei, SUN Jie, et al. Typical cross section silhouette analysis and interval prediction model construction of shorts[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019,40(5):113-118.
[13] 张爱萍, 王云仪, 姚怡. 服装胸围截面上距离松量的分配关系[J]. 纺织学报, 2012,33(6):76-80.
ZHANG Aiping, WANG Yunyi, YAO Yi. Study on relationships between garment's distance ease distributions at bust section[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2012,33(6):76-80.
[14] LAGE A, ANCUTIENE K. Virtual try-on technologies in the clothing industry: part 1: investigation of distance ease between body and garment[J]. The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2017,108(10):1787-1793.
[15] WANG Z H, ROGER N G, NEWTON E. Investigation of jacket silhouette based on ease distribution[J]. Journal of Donghua University (English Edition), 2014,31(3):316-319.
[16] 姚怡, 狄宏静. 女装胸围加放量与穿着方式及面料厚度的关系[J]. 纺织学报, 2012,33(11):107-111.
YAO Yi, DI Hongjing. Relationship between dress bust ease wearing way and thickness of fabric[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2012,33(11):107-111.
[17] CASTRO L M, HERNANDEZ I. Practical pattern making: a step-by-step guide[M]. Canada: Firefly Books, 2015: 56-82.
[18] LIU Z, HE Q, ZOU F, et al. Apparel ease distribution analysis using three-dimensional motion capture[J]. Textile Research Journal, 2019,35(2):1-13.
[19] LIM H S. Three dimensional virtual try-on technologies in the achievement and testing of fit for mass customization[M]. North Carolina: North Carolina State University, 2009: 46-71.
[20] ZHANG F F, LITTLE T J. Dynamic ease evaluation for 3D garment design[J]. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 2018,22(2):209-222.
[21] WANG S T, WANG X H, WANG Y Y. Effects of clothing ease and body postures on the air gap and clothing coverage[J]. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2019,31(4):578-591.
[22] PETRAK S, MARINA S, NAGLIC M M. Design and 3D simulation of unique women's pants collection[C]// Proceedings of the 9th Scientific and Professional Consultancy Textile Science and Economy. Zagreb: University of Zagreb, 2016: 118-121.
[23] HU P, HO E S, ASLAM N, et al. A new method to evaluate the dynamic air gap thickness and garment sliding of virtual clothes during walking[J]. Textile Research Journal, 2019,89(19):4148-4161.
[24] MERT E, PSIKUTA A, ARÉVALO M, et al. A validation methodology and application of 3D garment simulation software to determine the distribution of air layers in garments during walking[J]. Measurement, 2018,117(5):153-164.
[25] UDAYRA J, TALUKDAR P, DAS A, et al. Numerical modeling of heat transfer and fluid motion in air gap between clothing and human body: effect of air gap orientation and body movement[J]. International Journal of Heat and Mass Transfer, 2017,108(3):271-291.
[26] GUPTA D. New directions in the field of anthropometry, sizing and clothing fit[J]. Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design, 2020,25(1):3-27.
[27] GU B F, SU J Q, LIU G L, et al. Pattern alteration of women's suits based on ease distribution[J]. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2016,28(2):201-215.
[28] LI J, ZHANG Z H, WANG Y Y. The relationship between air gap sizes and clothing heat transfer performance[J]. Journal of The Textile Institute, 2013,104(12):1327-1336.
[29] ZHANG J, INNMI N, KIM K O, et al. Upper garment 3D modeling for pattern making[J]. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2015,27(6):852-869.
[30] HUANG H Q, MOK P Y, KWOK Y L, et al. Block pattern generation: from parameterizing human bodies to fit feature-aligned and flattenable 3D garments[J]. Computers in Industry, 2012,63(8):680-691.
[31] THOMASSEY S, BRUNIAUX P. A template of ease allowance for garments based on a 3D reverse methodology[J]. International Journal of Industrial Ergonomics, 2013,43(5):406-416.
[32] CHEN Y, ZENG X, HAPPIETTE M, et al. Optimization of garment design using fuzzy logic and sensory evaluation techniques[J]. Engineering Applications of Artificial Intelligence, 2009,22(2):272-282.
[33] WANG J F, ZHONG B Y, WANG H Q. Measuring garment pressure at any point using a wearable sen-sor[J]. Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 2019,14(4):1-8.
[34] WANG R M, LIU Y, LUO X N, et al. A finite-element mechanical contact model based on mindlin-reissner shell theory for a three-dimensional human body and garment[J]. Journal of Computational and Applied Mathematics, 2011,236(5):867-877.
doi: 10.1016/j.cam.2011.05.017
[35] CHAW E, KRZYWINSKI S H, ROEDEL H. Garment prototyping based on scalable virtual female bodies[J]. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2013,25(3):184-197.
[36] MENG Y, WANG C C L, JIN X. Flexible shape control for automatic resizing of apparel products[J]. Computer-Aided Design, 2012,44(1):68-76.
[37] LI J T, LU G D, LIU Z. Feature curve-net-based three-dimensional garment customization[J]. Textile Research Journal, 2013,83(5):519-531.
[38] TAO X Y, BRUNIAUX P. Toward advanced three-dimensional modeling of garment prototype from draping technique[J]. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2013,25(4):266-283.
[39] SU J Q, GU B F, LIU G L, et al. Determination of distance ease of pants using 3D scanning data[J]. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2015,27(1):47-59.
[1] XIA Haibang, HUANG Hongyun, DING Zuohua. Clothing comfort evaluation based on transfer learning and support vector machine [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(06): 125-131.
[2] LIU Muli, YUAN Li, YANG Yali, LIU Junping, CHENG Zhe, GONG Xue, JI Changjun, YAN Yuchen. Color representation model for pre-colored fiber blends based on independent component features from mixed color space [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(09): 62-69.
[3] ZHANG Lingli, ZHANG Gaopeng. Parametric flat pattern design for clothing based on MatLab [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(01): 130-135.
[4] . Fashion geometric printing pattern designing based on mathematical method [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2014, 35(3): 141-0.
[5] YANG Gang;;ZHONG Yueqi;. It is not rare for penetration phenomena to occur between garment and mannequin when 3-D garment is dressed onto various mannequins. In order to enhance the reusability of the 3-D scanned garment model, an algorithm based on same layer penetration compensation has been proposed, in which, the penetration detection and compensation between garment and mannequin are expressed respectively by the crossover and compensation between garment vertex and body triangle, and between garment edge/body triangle. The over-deformation is compensated via the position adjustment procedure. Experimental results verify that this method is an efficient approach for reusing 3-D scanned garment models. [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2010, 31(10): 134-138.
[6] WANG Zhan;ZHANG Hui;ZHAO Yuling. Modeling and exhibition technique in 3-D garment CAD [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2008, 29(4): 91-94.
[7] YUAN Fei;YUAN Guan-luo;WANG Chun-yan. Correlation of free movement of hands and garment ease [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2006, 27(7): 40-43.
[8] LI Zhong;MA Li-zhuang;HUANG Jian. Application of the cubic Bzier spline curve in garment pattern design [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2006, 27(5): 53-55.
[9] HU Jue-liang;DONG Jian-ming;HE Ying;ZOU Feng-yuan. Garment pattern design based on artificial neural network [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2006, 27(2): 49-52.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited
  Shared   
  Discussed   
No Suggested Reading articles found!
京ICP备14006648号
Copyright 2021 © Editorial office of Journal of Textile Research
Supported by Beijing Magtech Co.Ltd